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EFI Sportster Motorcycle Talk (2007 and up) For 2007 and above Sportsters

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  #1  
Old 11th April 2012
raoulduke raoulduke is offline
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Default Front brake line

So... (2007 nightster btw)

Last night I did my apes. Tonight is the coil and ignition move and wire tuck.

I got suckered into the 80 something dollar black diamond harley cable for the brake.

Right now I have the slightly bent stocker on. It works surprisingly well (can't tell a diff) but it looks like shit and it's pretty sketchy (for that matter the clutch is pretty much at it's limit too. Prob better replace that too

I've never dealt with bleeding brakes etc, and I usually work alone on my bike.
I called an indy in my hood (walking distance) and they quoted me 25 dollars to switch the cables and bleed the brakes.

Now, I'm pretty savvy with electrical, and most mechanical things, but I've just never messed with brakes on a bike before. I'm a little wary of screwin it up, and even more worried about spilling that horrid shit all over my bike and messing up the finish.

Should I pay the 25 bucks? Or am I being a sally?


If you're vote is Sally..... any guidance would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 12th April 2012
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Terp84Alum Terp84Alum is offline
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Just the one line, right? Do it yourself although $25 is dirt cheap. Make sure you or he uses the correct fluid.
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  #3  
Old 12th April 2012
raoulduke raoulduke is offline
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yeah that's what I figured. In this new wide world of HD (high dollar) 25 was refreshing. I know he'll use the right shit because I bought it already from harley....:-)

I've read the service manual but it's pretty military. I love people's methods for stuff.

I'll do the clutch cable myself, since it won't wreck my finish or cause me to become road debris.
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  #4  
Old 12th April 2012
mxr33 mxr33 is offline
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two thoughts here, $25 is dirt cheap and well worth it. if you plan on bleeding the brakes manually it almost requires two people, one to pump and hold the lever in and one to open the drain valve. you could invest the $25 in a small brake bleeder hand pump and do it by yourself. just have to decide how often are you going to bleed brakes and is having the tool worth it to you?
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  #5  
Old 12th April 2012
raoulduke raoulduke is offline
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Ug.

So I showed up and it was a disaster. I was there with the guy and he had a HELLUVA time getting them to catch and bleed. Finally got MOST of the air out and now they "work"

Not near as stiff as they used to be. I can't touch the grip with them or anything so they are safe..... but I'd like them to be tighter.

Any advice?

Just keep re-bleeding etc?
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  #6  
Old 12th April 2012
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SuperTed SuperTed is offline
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Originally Posted by raoulduke View Post
Ug.

So I showed up and it was a disaster. I was there with the guy and he had a HELLUVA time getting them to catch and bleed. Finally got MOST of the air out and now they "work"

Not near as stiff as they used to be. I can't touch the grip with them or anything so they are safe..... but I'd like them to be tighter.

Any advice?

Just keep re-bleeding etc?
Bleeding is an easy, straightforward job. It worries me to hear the "professional" mechanic was having problems, especially when the brakes ended up being less stiff than before.

There is most likely still air in the line if you are getting a squishy feel. Grab a friend, a piece of tubing from a hardward store and a catch can and start bleeding to see if you get any more bubbles. Check the level too - the mechanic could have been too dumb to top it off after bleeding.

On the other hand, it's possible he used the wrong type of brake fluid. If so, that would require a full flush and re-bleed.

Good luck.
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  #7  
Old 12th April 2012
raoulduke raoulduke is offline
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Yeah I worried about both of those things. Dude said he had never had a problem like this with them but sometimes they are stubborn.

I was def worried about the fluid because as he added the dot 4 it was a diff color than what was in there. (he just added)

I think I better do a full flush and a re-bleed. I saw how the bleed goes... (pump pump pump open the drain, close drain pump some more)

How do I get it all out and start from scratch?
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  #8  
Old 12th April 2012
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SuperTed SuperTed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raoulduke View Post
Yeah I worried about both of those things. Dude said he had never had a problem like this with them but sometimes they are stubborn.

I was def worried about the fluid because as he added the dot 4 it was a diff color than what was in there. (he just added)

I think I better do a full flush and a re-bleed. I saw how the bleed goes... (pump pump pump open the drain, close drain pump some more)

How do I get it all out and start from scratch?
Pump, hold lever, open bleeder, close bleeder, release lever. Repeat.

To clear the DOT4 fluid, bleed out just about all the brake fluid, then follow up with the correct stuff which I believe is DOT5, but check your manual. Be sure to use enough of the new stuff through to push the bad fluid out completely. You may want to pick up 2 (maybe even 3) bottles of DOT5 to complete the flush and have enough in your master cylinder when you're finished.

Oh, and the last step will be to kick that guy in the nuts for being a complete idiot.
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  #9  
Old 12th April 2012
raoulduke raoulduke is offline
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This bike call for dot 4. I'm just concerned something else was in it before. (piss colored instead of clear like the 4 i added)

So to sum it up.

Grab a hose open, open the drain into a jar, pull the master cylinder lid, and pump till it's nearly at the bottom of the MC, add more fresh dot 4 and keep going till I know I've run some through....

Then...

Pump, hold lever, open bleeder, close bleeder, release lever. Repeat until it feels right?

This is what the guy tried to do today and it was doing NOTHING. finally we got some bubbles coming up in the master cylinder and thats when it started to finally get better.
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  #10  
Old 12th April 2012
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SuperTed SuperTed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raoulduke View Post
This bike call for dot 4. I'm just concerned something else was in it before. (piss colored instead of clear like the 4 i added)

So to sum it up.

Grab a hose open, open the drain into a jar, pull the master cylinder lid, and pump till it's nearly at the bottom of the MC, add more fresh dot 4 and keep going till I know I've run some through....

Then...

Pump, hold lever, open bleeder, close bleeder, release lever. Repeat until it feels right?

This is what the guy tried to do today and it was doing NOTHING. finally we got some bubbles coming up in the master cylinder and thats when it started to finally get better.
Yep, you got it. Good you checked for the correct fluid type. It can sometimes take a long time to get those bubbles out. Keep going until those bubbles come out completely and you see good, clean, new fluid coming through the tube. The brake lever will start to firm back up. It also won't hurt to tap/wiggle the brake line periodically to loosen up any bubbles that might be able to sneak up the line and exit through the MC.
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