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  #1  
Old 21st August 2017
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schwede schwede is offline
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Talking painters. .. advice wanted...

Refresh on an 08xl1208low...

Don't mean to be long. ..

Had this bike since new. ..daily ride, but garage kept, 65k miles on her. Be waiting on a new primary cover, (another thread ), so I've used the time wisely on mechanical maintenance.

The tins and tank are in good condition. ..original color is factory vivid black. .some swirl marks on the tank with one rock chip low front (shifter side ) and I noticed some orange peel (hope it isn't rust), on the lower part of the rear fender, same side.

Any hoo...love the black, but want a change. ..keep the black, but tone it down. ..more of a satin finish. ..I'm of the generation that loves black and chrome. ..refuse to go matte or denim.

I've settled on Eastwood 2k paints. I plan on scuffing the original paint/top coat (clear ) with 320 wet sand, shoot their 2k urethane primer and follow it with their 2k rat rod satin black.
I'll be using their pre-paint prep after sanding, and between the primer and top coat.

Sound like a plan? Not wanting to start another "best oil" thread. ..just want advice and tips. ..
Thanks. ..
Schwede
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  #2  
Old 21st August 2017
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I wouldn't think you'd need more primer unless you sand down to the metal or the paint is chipping. Any rust spots need to be sanded to metal and feathered back into the existing paint then primed at those spots. Let that dry, do your wet sanding and hit it with the color of your choice. Wet sand between coats of clear satin for a smooth coat with no orange peel that will protect your black. It's all a build-up process. Remember, any coat you put over any existing paint will only last as long as the existing base holds up.
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  #3  
Old 21st August 2017
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Thanks for your reply. ..the 2k rat rod satin black needs no clear. ..no rust or chipping anywhere other than a small spot on the rear fender by the tail lamp. ..looks like orange peel in the original paint. (I first noticed it about 3 years ago, no sign of rust on the underside.)

If I understand you correctly, the primer would be an unnecessary step? I was planning on using the primer as a good base for the 2k satin to adhere to. ..

Schwede
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Old 21st August 2017
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The primer simplified etches the metal for a more holding power for base and top coats. If you are not down to the metal, there is no need for primer unless the original paint is peeling or pulling off. Do use it on the small spot on the rear fender. then wet sand the primer smooth back to the original paint. The orange peel needs to be wet sanded out since that will come thru your next paint layers even if it takes sanding to bare metal to do so...if you want that smooth finished look. The primer is generally not considered a base coat (although it can be) but more of a rust preventer.
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Old 22nd August 2017
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Thanks, your advice matches my research...reps to you.
Schwede
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Old 22nd August 2017
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Good luck with your project. Any chance of a pictorial of your endeavor that I could add to the Sportsterpedia? You know I had to ask.......if not, that's Ok and good luck anyways.
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Old 22nd August 2017
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schwede schwede is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Good luck with your project. Any chance of a pictorial of your endeavor that I could add to the Sportsterpedia? You know I had to ask.......if not, that's Ok and good luck anyways.
No pictorials from me now that pb did their number. ..tried im.bb in another post. ..the photo was so large, I thought it would be like the Eclipse and cause all forum members to go blind...

I have visited the Sportsterpedia many times. ..your work at it is not lost in my eyes. ..
thanks for your dedication. .

Schwede
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Old 22nd August 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schwede View Post
No pictorials from me now that pb did their number. ..tried im.bb in another post. ..the photo was so large, I thought it would be like the Eclipse and cause all forum members to go blind...

I have visited the Sportsterpedia many times. ..your work at it is not lost in my eyes. ..
thanks for your dedication. .

Schwede
And thank you for the kind words Sir. It's just such a loss to all of us loosing all those pics. Sometimes typing / saying things just doesn't quite explain all that could be revealed in a single picture.
Cheers.
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Old 22nd August 2017
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Oh, I'll add one more thing. The biggest feature to adding primer when it isn't necessary is overall thickness. The myth I believe is that you can't get the paint too thick as in too many coats. That's completely wrong. Here is my latest monsterpiece: http://sportsterpedia.com/lib/exe/fe...:lightning.jpg
Getting older and forgetful but I think I have a couple years on this one so far. I did much welding and cutting to get these tins to fit, filling holes and drilling new ones, it was a mess. But, for the graphics, I used an airbrush. The paint, Duplicolor engine enamel with ceramic...every drop except clear coat. I sprayed rattle cans into a bottle using a funnel. It took 3 months to get used to the airbrush and get some decent lines, wet sanding between coats, and I have a no idea how many coats it took to get some sort of 3D with the flames. But, it does have 10-12 coats of clear straight from the rattle cans.
The point: The thicker the paint, the harder it is to maintain. If I spill gas on the tank, I have to let it dry and buff it out with wax. If I try to clean up the gas before it dries, it will bubble worse than a dog's soft skin around the neck.
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