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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #1  
Old 3rd February 2011
notaffiliated notaffiliated is offline
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Default trans swap q's

ok.. start from the top. swapping out the trans from my broken 69ch cases and transplanting into my 69 h cases. was reading that there was (3?) different main shaft lengths.
if i have my info correct, i'm thinking i could swap the 69ch internals in the 69 h cases as long as i don't use the electric start.
seems that if i wanted to add electric start in my h cases with ch internals i'd need to weld a ring gear on my clutch basket and install a h main shaft or post 70 main shaft. is this correct?
thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 3rd February 2011
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Yes on a XLH the Mainshaft is different, along with the clutchgear, hub, basket clutchrods and engine sprocket.
I believe the only issue you may have using the XLCH stufff is the primary adjuster support face may be further out on your XLH cases. You may need to mill that down to the same height as your XLCH cases.
Hopefully DR DICK will respond, he will know for sure, if not PM him.
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  #3  
Old 3rd February 2011
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thanks chevelle... have the matching engine sprocket too.. didn't think of the adjuster pad. good call. thanks
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  #4  
Old 4th February 2011
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You should consider running a wet clutch with a 71-up primary set up. I'd like to know if the 69 XLH is the same as a 71-76 for the left case. Doc-Dick would know this.....

Looks like your starting that 69......just found 73 I bought has the early style jugs and heads.
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  #5  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergerburger View Post
You should consider running a wet clutch with a 71-up primary set up. I'd like to know if the 69 XLH is the same as a 71-76 for the left case. Doc-Dick would know this.....

Looks like your starting that 69......just found 73 I bought has the early style jugs and heads.
NOOOOOOOO......... Wet Clutch operation cannot be compared to the DRY CLUTCH setup, much much better.....
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  #6  
Old 4th February 2011
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thanks guys.. going to try to use as much as i can from the ch motor.
fergerburger, shoot you an e about the heads if your willing to sell
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  #7  
Old 5th February 2011
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ok in gonna try to be clear & easy to understand. its not my strong point so try to bear wit me. if im not clear please come back wit ur quests.

1st im assumein you want to use everything (trans, cluch, pri drive, kicker, sprocket cover) from the ch except the cases. also i guess u need to use ur ch oilpump, camcover, magneto, oiltank, & frame/footpegs. in my head im thinkin you blew out the trans corner in the ch and have this set of h cases. but no other h guts, just a set of empty cases. also gonna assume gotta fit back in 67ch frame.

if you have h guts to mix n match get back to me.

gonna explain as if you usein all ch parts except cases. its important to keep in mind that the factory changed only what they had to in order to fit the electric starter. anything that didnt have to be changed didnt get changed.

imagine yourself as the guy who had to add this electric start to a ch. you need to spin the cluch drum like the kicker does. gotta put a ring gear on drum. but the chain is the spot that the ring gear needs to go. in order to fit the gear you move the chain (and all related parts) outward the thickness of ring gear(.437). new engine sprk. taller mount pads for pri adjuster. longer cluch gear. longer mainshaft to match cluch gear. get the idea?

you need to unmodify h cases.
on left side case. 1) cut down pri adj mount pads .437. 2) remove pri drain plug then grind off boss that it fit into & weld hole closed. or the kickstand will foul & crack case because kickstand/peg mounts position is farther fwd on h frame(h frame uses diff peg supprorts to put pegs back to correct spot).
on right case: this is where the "hidden" mods are.
1) to make room for starter motor oil line routing needed to be totally changed. all 3 motor to tank connections were behind rear ex tappet guide on ch. on h: feed from tank to motor goes directly rear of pump body. if your lucky you will have a plug that can be swapped to a nipple on the rear facing surface of pump body. if not get back to me. 2) drill and tap cam cover for vent line. just like all hump case cam covers are. 3) sprkt cover. dont dismiss this as small potatoes. if ur cover is not a later replacement but orig from 69, it wont have the upper dowel hole in the h position(behind top bolt), though it will have the boss. if sprk cover isnt located correct cluch rods will not move freely. again get back to me. 4) h cases use only 2 of the 4 bolts where rear motor mount attatches to top of cases. the holes that the oiltank mounting standoffs go in are not present on h cases.

all the things i listed earlier but didnt explain yet need to get modified cause of the "dominno effect".
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  #8  
Old 5th February 2011
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wow....I'm surprised Harley allowed the models to diverge so much....Doc Dick, is the 69 left case the same as the 71-76 left case then????

Also, I would disagree that the "dry clutch" set up is superior to the wet clutch set up. I agree there is more surface area in the dry clutch but the wet clutch setup is overall less problematic.

Hey notaffiliated.....I'll pull the E73 heads this weekend and see what shape they are in.....the bike was rebuilt recently but was run with a flooding carb (too rich) for about 100 miles. It's warm here now....30 degrees.....so I can work in the garage
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  #9  
Old 5th February 2011
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dimentions of 67-71 left hump case is basically identical. 71 has no pad for vin#. 70 does although its not used. 67 still had earlier pri adj mount height and used a spacer to make up difference.
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  #10  
Old 5th February 2011
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thank you dr dick. get what your explaining. the motor is going into a paugho frame. no oil tank or related issues.
thanks for the explanation on why the lengths are different & the relation to the primary adjuster/engine sprocket.
wasn't completely against the idea of maybe running electric leg later down the road. thinking before i go cutting the adjuster pad i should consider swapping over to h main shaft and sprocket shaft. was going to pm you but thought this would be good info for anyone searching on the subject in the future.
have one more question of the top of my head.
wouldn't swapping out the ch main shaft for an h, effectively move the basket "out" .437 causing issue's with my kick starter engagement?
also, going to try something slightly different than the norm andrews gears. going to send mine out to be cryo treated . while apart do i need to change anything else when changing main shaft length. meaning other than standard rebuild procedure?
thanks for those who take the time out.
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