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Sportster Motorcycle Motor - Top End Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Top End issues. Rockerboxes, Valves, Cylinders, Pistons, Rings, Lift Rods, etc...

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  #1  
Old 11th March 2011
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Default Help removing a broken plug.

Well, I was doing some service to the bike and part of that service was removing the plugs so I could turn the engine minus the compression. So I remove the rear plug with no problem. When I am removing the front plug I start to feel resistance after a few turns. I stopped and thought to myself, "I bet this bitch is going to seize". So I turned it back in about half a turn and sprayed WD40 along the exposed threads. I guess I didn't let it soak long enough because when I started to apply pressure again removing it then it broke off. I DO use an anti-seize, but apparently the front plug either didn't get enough or got overlooked. I've never removed a broken plug before, but I am thinking since a lot of it is already out of the head that perhaps someone can come up with an idea that might prevent me from pulling the head off. Here's a couple of pics of what I have to work with.


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  #2  
Old 11th March 2011
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I'd grab it with vise grips and back it out. Happened to me years ago and had enough plug to get a grip.
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Old 11th March 2011
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Was about to suggest vise grips but khaskins beat me to it.

Good luck!
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Old 11th March 2011
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I can't see enough room for vice grips, but if they fit. Otherwise, if the machined recess is wide enough to allow one of those sockets that has the cammed action for stripped bolt heads, that may work for you. The needle type would not work.

In the realm of ideas that may not be so great, you could try and thread a nut onto the stub, protect the area and tack them together, then try twist it out.

In the world of things that suck balls, this is up there. Best of luck.
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Old 11th March 2011
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needle nose vise grips should do it - how did that get so bound up?
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Old 11th March 2011
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I found this on the web...

  1. Spray around the threaded area with a light penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or Kano Kroil. Allow it to soak in for 20 minutes or more before trying loosen the broken plug. If this is the first spark plug that you attempted to remove, it's not a bad idea to soak the others. Usually if one is in poor shape, the others are probably not much better. Once you have decided that it has soaked enough, continue to the next step.
  2. Get an EZOut the size that will fit the hole where the ceramic used to be. You will need a very large EZOut Extractor. An EZOut (or Easy-out) is similar to a drill, except that it turns in reverse. As you turn the EZOut counter clockwise, its teeth grip the interior more tightly and turns it.
  3. Insert the EZOut extractor into the shaft where the ceramic part used to be. Make certain that the EZOut is the appropriate size. If it's too small, the teeth will not grip the sides.
  4. Turn it very slowly and carefully to unscrew and remove the old spark plug.
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Old 11th March 2011
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Vice grips are a good idea, followed by some anti-seize on the new plugs! Lesson learned.
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  #8  
Old 11th March 2011
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I was thinking those lines too, but when smashing out the ceramic to get the EZout in (it looks like the ceramic is currently flush with the break), keep some serious vacuum on the area so you don't drop ceramic bits down into the cylinder. If that happens, you may have some difficulty getting them out.
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Old 11th March 2011
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two slim nuts and a pair of needle nose visegrips....and lots of penetrating fluid.
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Old 11th March 2011
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You might want to take that to a shop. It is possible a piece of the plug thread broke off and is jammed in there. If you force it, it may tear into the threads in the head on the way.

Good luck,

Jim
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