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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #1  
Old 11th May 2011
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Default Pipes too Harsh/Metallic? Baffle Wrapping How To

This spring I have been running my 883\1250 with drag pipes. I love the way they look and I've had good performance with them as well. My only complaints are they are pretty loud and is the sound can be a bit harsh/metallic when decelerating. I have baffels installed and it makes a big difference but I wanted to see if I could soften and deepen the sound a bit. By the way...I did fire it up without the baffels just to see what it would sound like. Holy Cow is it loud!! That would just piss people off.

This simple mod (if you can call it that, more of a maintenance thing) is cheap, easy to do, and will work with any exhaust as long as you have enough room to reinsert the baffle into the exhaust pipe.

Here is what you need to do this:
  • Exhaust Baffels
  • Fiberglass Wrap (I used Bondo Fiberglass Mat this time. I'm not sure how long it will hold up, I may try the cloth or even stove pipe cord next time.)
  • Masking Tape
  • Scissors (probably not your wife's good pair)
  • Latex Gloves
  • Vasoline



1. Remove your baffles from your exhaust. The gloves are handy for keeping the soot off of you and while handling the fiberglass.

2. Lay out the fiberglass material. Mark it for the width of the area you want to cover on your baffels. You can experiment with the thickness for sound effect. I wrapped mine with about 18" of material.


3. Secure the wrap to your baffel with a couple of pieces of tape and wrap it up. I didn't make mine super tight but its not falling off either. The idea here is to have some air with which to absorb and trap sound, especially high frequency sound waves.


4. Once you have the amount of wrap you want on the baffle secure it with masking tape. The tape will burn off on its own so no worries with that. I would only use paper based tapes. Scotch tape or Duct Tape may leave a residue and could make the baffles difficult to remove later on. Trim off excess fibers and clean it up a little.


5. Put a little vasoline around the ends where the metal of the baffle slides into the exhaust pipe. This will help to insert the baffle and allow you to line up the bolt holes easier. Insert the baffles into the pipes and secure them with the nuts/bolts.


6. Fire her up and hear the difference.

This entire process should only take about 15-20 mintues to complete. I haven't experimented yet with the amount of material used or other types of material (ie: fiber cloth or stove pipe cord). I'll revisit the thread and update with my results later if I do so.

If you have other materials or methods please follow up with what has worked well for you. I'm always up for new or better ideas.
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  #2  
Old 13th May 2011
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I have Sideshots and for me, the stock baffles were obnoxiously loud. I ordered some QQ baffles from BCT and I modded them with some added diverters. They originally had a straight through passage about a 1/4" dia. there was a diverter where the upper green arrow is pointing and a small 3/4" lollipop welded into the back end of the baffle. You can see the lollipop weld with the lower green arrow.

I used JB Weld and plugged the forward hole and fixed a 1/2 flat washer to it in order to force all the exhaust gas around it and to create a pressure wave back towards the cylinder. The gas moves over and is forced halfway between the outside of the larger 1" washer and half in towards the other diverter. This is also plugged with a JG Welded bolt in the hole again forcing the gas to the outside of the cone.

Now all the gas moves back into the cone in back of the diverter and runs through the body of the baffle while increasing velocity due to the slightly reduced diameter of the baffle.

This is all crudely illustrated by the red arrow.

The Lollipop is the last step about 1/4 inch past where the baffle opens back up.

The baffle is inserted as far into the pipe as it will go and produces a very pronounced deep bark but not near as loud as the standard baffle.

I then installed a 1/4 threaded pad eye with 1"bolts and washers as a last lollipop that leaves about 3/8" clearance between the washer and the inside of the exhaust pipe. This adds a bit of sharpness to the sound but also reduces the sound level to something I can live with in a condo with 7 other units within 100 feet of me. If I turn the lollipop sideways, it increases the open clearance by about 60% losing the sharpness but gaining volume. I'm still playing around with it to tune it to my liking.






In this next pic, the dotted lines show about where the front end of each baffle sits and if you look at the lower arrow, you can see the huge lollipops in the end of the pipes.

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  #3  
Old 13th May 2011
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Isn't fiberglass plastic? Plastic + Heat = ?????
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  #4  
Old 13th May 2011
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i tried using jb weld to repair an exhaust crack...man that stuff stinks when it burns. i couldnt get that crap off fast enough. i think its rated to 300 deg. +1 for creativity tho man. but alot of heat comes thru there. might wanna look at some more heat resistant materials. i love seeing homebrew projects.
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Old 13th May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharback View Post
Isn't fiberglass plastic? Plastic + Heat = ?????
aaaa fiberglass is glass....
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  #6  
Old 13th May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojira View Post
aaaa fiberglass is glass....
I believe it's glass re-enforced plastic. I know if I throw a piece of it in a fire it melts.
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Old 13th May 2011
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I know baffle wrap is made from fiberglass, but I'm not sure what grade/type it is. But I do know you can buy enough of the baffle specific wrap for 10 bucks to do a set. Not worth using non specific, you'd have a heck of a time getting it off if it melted.
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Old 13th May 2011
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The fibers are glass. The resin that is used on top of the fibers is a sort of plastic and will melt. The fibers of non- exhaust specific material will just burn away faster than the good packing.
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Old 13th May 2011
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Yes, I don't expect the wrap to last too long that I used. I am interested in using the stove pipe cord as I have heard it will last a long time. I chose the fiberglass matting because I wanted to experiment with something that had the capability of capturing more sound initially. I would think the tighter weave materials, like the fiberglass cloth and stove pipe cord would give less of a sound capture effect.

LostNDallas...good writeup and engineering effort. How has the JBWeld held up so far? How is your performance with this baffle?
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Old 13th May 2011
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So far so good. everything is holding up just fine. Noise levels have stabilized now that the ECM is dialed in and adjusted itself.

Performance is a good balance between high end revs and low end torque. I could definitely tell the difference between the stock exhaust and the almost open Sideshots. And then again when I put the high restriction baffles in.

Doesn't take nearly as much throttle accelerate as with the stock baffles but rolls up nicely in the upper range of the revs. Both are a step above the stock exhaust.

In short, I'm happy with them.

note: I've been running them for 2 months with no issues so far.
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