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  #1  
Old 28th June 2011
921200hd 921200hd is offline
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Default does this sound about right for break in procedures on rebuilt motor

im having a shop rebuild my motor and when its all done and im sure theyll tell me but does this sound about right for break in procedures for a rebuilt motor with 883/1200 bore and rebuild bottom end

should i run non synthetic oil til about 3500?
should i change my oil at 100km then 300km then 1000km
should i keep the motor under 3500rpms i dont have a tach so at hwy speed do i roll on throttle and roll off never keeping a steady rpm and of course never over reving or lugging the motor and should i give it some juice every now and again like get her hot and then slower down a little will this help with rigs setting thanks for any input
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  #2  
Old 28th June 2011
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Motorhead52 Motorhead52 is offline
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Try this

dry build the motor use no oil clean clean clean BUT make sure the bottom end is lubed and oil system is charged to work

but top end is dry dry dry

start the motor and run to 3000 rpm for 1 minute, STOP go away for at least 8 hours

Next time ride the motor 10 miles not over 5000rpm like you stole it, come back and drain it change the oil next time 50 miles next time all the time like you stole it 500mi change oil, then regular 3 to 5 k oil changes at 1500mi you can decide if you want syn oil after 3000rpm you can explore 5000rpm and up

I did mine like this for my top end and so far 20,000mi and its good
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  #3  
Old 28th June 2011
921200hd 921200hd is offline
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im also doing the bottom end aswell
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  #4  
Old 28th June 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 921200hd View Post
1. should i run non synthetic oil til about 3500?
2. should i change my oil at 100km then 300km then 1000km
3. should i keep the motor under 3500rpms i dont have a tach so at hwy speed

4. do i roll on throttle and roll off never keeping a steady rpm and of course never over reving or lugging the motor and should i give it some juice every now and again like get her hot and then slower down a little will this help with rigs setting thanks for any input
1. BS, run whatever oil you like - thats formulated for Harley V-Twins. We get extra trace elements - memory here - zinc and magnesium? I forget. The Amsoil is good, Harley oil good, Mobil 1 VTwin is good, etc. Dino or synth, your choice.

2. Used to miles here, but first 800km, change. Then every 4000km

3. First 100km, not over 3000rpm, never use 5th (or 4th) gear. Thereafter, you can rev to 3,500rpm, use varied speeds, avoid high gear. After 800km, its broken in.

4. After 100km, you can roll on throttle, not exceed 3500rpm, roll off, dont ride at steady speeds.

~~~~

After I redid the top on my 94, I found breaking in was a real joy. Now with 3000+ miles on the top... I know it was worth it.
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  #5  
Old 28th June 2011
921200hd 921200hd is offline
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why not use 4 and 5th gear
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  #6  
Old 28th June 2011
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead52 View Post
Try this

dry build the motor use no oil clean clean clean BUT make sure the bottom end is lubed and oil system is charged to work

but top end is dry dry dry

start the motor and run to 3000 rpm for 1 minute, STOP go away for at least 8 hours

Next time ride the motor 10 miles not over 5000rpm like you stole it, come back and drain it change the oil next time 50 miles next time all the time like you stole it 500mi change oil, then regular 3 to 5 k oil changes at 1500mi you can decide if you want syn oil after 3000rpm you can explore 5000rpm and up

I did mine like this for my top end and so far 20,000mi and its good

rut roh... here we go again.... (looking for popcorn smiley but no joy)
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  #7  
Old 28th June 2011
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Lugging creates excessive heat. So stay out of 4th, 5th gear. At least 5th. The prime purpose of a break in is to seat the piston rings. Highest compression is achieved during acceleration AND deceleration hence do not stay at a steady RPM. This high compression forces the rings to expand against the cylinder walls and "seats" them. The lugging and over revving cause excessive heat which could glaze the cylinder walls which will hamper the mating process. A bad break in can cause excessive oil consumption and less power due to lower compression.
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  #8  
Old 28th June 2011
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Well if it was me I wouldn't go on a forum and take guidance from a bunch of shade tree mechanics. You never really know what kind of info your going to get unless you know the people your getting the info from. I'd get my info from the experts. Follow your mechanics guidance.

Take a look at this: http://www.nrhsperformance.com/NrhsInstructionSheet.pdf paying particular attention to paragraphs 10 and 11. Because you have also re-built the bottom end things might be a little different.

First and foremost listen to your mechanic! He's the one that is guarantee'ing the work. If you don't follow his guidance he probably won't guarantee shit. I know I wouldn't if I were him.
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  #9  
Old 30th June 2011
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Any time we (Father and I) were responsible for a motor rebuild we would pull the plugs and run the starter for 5-6 seconds at a time and let it sit for 2-3 minutes for the starter to cool down (we usually would leave it attached to a battery charger) So we could prime the motor with oil.

Once we got some sort of oil pressure going we would slap the plugs back in and take it out on the freeway and flux the rpm from 2500-5k and you take it out for a few miles and then we would take it back home and change the oil. Then we would repeat taking it out and running it up and down through the gears on the freeway getting those rings to seat.

I wouldn't suggest using synthetic oil. We tried it once in a little Toyota 4 banger (4age for those interested) and we could never get the rings to seat. It would always burn oil. We change the oil to cheap dino oil and we got them to seat after that.

I would suggest buying some Moly or Zinc additive to put into the oil during break in. If you prime your oil system before hand you will have a little extra zinc or moly in the motor to help prevent scaring if there is any metal on metal contact. It wont eliminate it completely as there is always a tiny bit of dirt where your working, but it will help.

Other than that. I have no idea why people get so fancy or crazy with their engine break ins. Dont let it idle to long because you will just build up oil glass on the cylinder walls and wont get your rings to seat. Dont take it out for a nice steady long drive or you wont get your rings to seat. Remember a few heat cycles is just as important and cycling your rpms from high to low. Do it gradually. No Wide Open throttle pulls until after your 2nd-3rd heat cycle. You CAN feel the rings seat regularless of what people say, it wont be a sudden snap but it will just feel stronger.

Heat cycle means you get the motor up to operating temperature and you let it completely cool again. Some day over night, some day 24 hours, some say pull a rabbit out of a hat.
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  #10  
Old 30th June 2011
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well when i do race car moters, i first fire them up and run her up to 2500-3000rpm for 15 or 20 min, let her cool out. while its running very the throttle a little on the very first shut down junk that oil. put in a new bach and take her out and drive the piss out of it if you going on a good long trip very the shit out of the throttle and bring it up to top rpm a few times, if you dog it every were it will be under powered ,and you can break a engin in top gear just dont let it lug right down, to pervent ring chatter and if i were you break it in on rottel t 15-40 deasle oil lotts of zink in it have fun .
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