changing fork oil

[engine]

I just changed my fork oil last night. The dealer parts guy recommended that I use Screamin Eagle oil because it will firm up the fork nice. I put in 9 oz. in each leg as per the manual. After trying to compress the fork, I can hear the oil squirting around in the forks. Is that a potential problem, or wil that settle out?

[thunderpaw]

It will settle out.

Kim

[engine]

Is that a Warwick or a Tobias bass you got there? either one of those are sweet!

[thunderpaw]

It's a Peavey Cirrus Wenge/Walnut. Great bass.

Kim

[engine]

I used to play a Peavey, I think it was Hawaiian Koa and Purple Heart. Beautiful bass, but a lot of maintenance to keep the wood looking brilliant. I used to wax it with this special "Bee's Wax" that my carpenter uncle gave me. It was actually his bass, so I had to keep it to his standards. Then I got into the music man kick, have a Stingray 4, and a G&L L2500 with a custom preamp (the one it came with sucked). The serial # on the G&L is like 00000945 or something. One of the first ones, got it in '97 if I remember correctly.

[XLFREAK]

I'm about to change the fork oil in my sport, does anyone know how much each leg is supposed to take on a 2005 883 custom?

Thanks.

[Turbota]

Originally Posted by sleestack

I'm about to change the fork oil in my sport, does anyone know how much each leg is supposed to take on a 2005 883 custom?

Thanks.

REPLACING FRONT FORK SPRINGS / OIL ON 04-05 SPORTSTERS

Read the instructions included with your Progressive front fork spring kit !

To empty the forks: Remove the small drain screws near the bottom of each fork. When you remove these, a small amount of fork oil will squirt out. Have rags on the ground to catch all the oil.

Pump the front end of the bike up and down many times (full stroke) to remove the remaining oil. The majority of the oil will be removed when pumping the forks. When all oil is removed, re-install the drain screws. Clean all oil from the front brake disks, calipers, wheels and the floor.

Jack the bike up so there's no weight on the front wheel and forks.

Put a large thick towel over the fuel tank and remove the handlebars (with everything still attached) and set them carefully on the tank. This gets them out of the way for removing the fork caps.

Using a 1 3/8” socket, remove the fork caps … Be careful, as these caps are under slight pressure from the fork springs. A piece of electrical tape can be placed around the end caps to prevent scratching during removal and installation.

Once the fork caps are removed, remove the springs and pour in approx. 9oz of new fork oil per fork. Recommend Bel-Ray 15wt.

The correct oil level can be insured by now fully lowering the bike so the forks completely collapse (no wieght on the bike lift). With the springs still removed, measure the distance from the top of the fork tube down to the top of the oil level in the fork (you can use a chopstick, etc). This distance should be no less than 5 1/2”. I set mine down to the 6" level. (I had to add another 1oz of oil to get the oil level to 6")

Raise the bike again so the front wheel is off the ground. Slide the new fork springs back in. The end of the springs will need to extend approx. 3/4” out of the fork tubes for preload. If the springs do not extend out of the fork tubes the required 3/4”, a piece of PVC plastic tubing (spacer) will need to be cut and placed above the springs so as the spacer sticks out of the folk tube the required 3/4" distance. This PVC tubing should be included in the Progressive spring kit. If any PVC tubing is used as a spacer, then a large washer will be need to be placed on top of the spring (between the spring and the PCV tubing) on each fork. These washers should also be included in the kit.

Note: Be advised that since the fork cap will screw 3/4" into the fork, this will actually give a total of 1 1/2" spring preload with the spacer sticking out of the fork 3/4" prior to fork cap install. (my bike required a 3" PVC spacer)

Re-install the fork caps and handlebars.
__________________________________________________

Note: The required 1 3/8” socket is not available for your 1/2” drive ratchet .. So, get this:

Autozone “Great Neck”
P/N S0138
1 3/8” socket - 3/4” drive
$8.99

Autozone “Great Neck”
P/N AD75
3/4” drive to 1/2” drive adapter
$2.99
__________________________________________________

Progressive Fork Springs for 04-05 Sportster:

P/N: 11-1527
Alternate P/N: 11-1523 or P/N 11-1130

[whiffy]

Very comprehensive Turbo....nice post
Whiffy

[Turbota]

Thank you ...

[RedRider]

If I wanted to be a cheap bastard (which I am..) and change the fork oil only (no aftermarket springs/spacers) and wanted to firm up the front end some, which weight oil do you reccomend using?