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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #1671  
Old 28th June 2012
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Originally Posted by JasonSarratt View Post
Do you wiggle the pipes as you are drawing them down with new gaskets?

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I dont understand. I press the pipes into the port as I finger tight, then I just went by 1/4 turns with the torque wrench on each nut.

Should I be pulling on the pipes instead?
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  #1672  
Old 28th June 2012
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I typically wiggle the head pipes while tightening the nuts equally. If you tighten 1 nut then the other without picking the pipe up you can crush the gasket on the bottom or top then when the other nut its tightened it moves the pipe and can open a slight leak up... It may be a overly cautious practice on my part but I've never personally had a leak on bikes I work on... I do have some ocd practices and do somethings most think are a waste of time but it always works as well...

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  #1673  
Old 28th June 2012
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Originally Posted by JasonSarratt View Post
Add 2% to the 10tps area you're having trouble with and re log...
Well after applying with calc tune, you can see the new ve's add 2% to that exact area, I guess i'll just re-log with this current tune and see what happens.

You recommend jumping right to the AFR table next though? What about "phase 2" of checking o2 voltages for lean spots?



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  #1674  
Old 28th June 2012
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Originally Posted by JasonSarratt View Post
Add 2% to the 10tps area you're having trouble with and re log... If it cleans up add another 2% just to the previously altered cells...it may tip it over the edge though...

Prob add the 2-4% then leave your ve alone and start pushing your afr numbers around...

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I was about to suggest the same thing... Make manual adjustments (add air/increase VE) in the 10% TP and 2500 RPM. I would adjust/increase 2 or 3%. Go log and see if you see the expected corresponding changes (call it a sanity check).

You'll note that Calc Tune was already making a 2% change at the 10% TP and 2500 RPM in the front. However, it was also making adjustments in various other places too. Making the manual adjustments will prevent all the other changes that Calc Tune is making simultaneously. The manual adjustments will allow you to focus on the specific area of interest without the possible impact of other things changing simultaneously - which could make it difficult to discern what's really going on.

I would be concerned to leave phase I with that much red....

What pipes and AC are you using again? Anything else not stock?
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  #1675  
Old 28th June 2012
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That sounds like a better idea, i'll try increasing the # in that particular area only, see what that looks like on MLV... Then i'll compare it to a log with the current Calc Tune configuration. See what worked best.


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  #1676  
Old 28th June 2012
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Originally Posted by Hutch08 View Post
You recommend jumping right to the AFR table next though? What about "phase 2" of checking o2 voltages for lean spots?
Opinions vary, but I don't recommend moving on to phase 2 yet.

You were probably the first on this thread - at least that I recall - to have tried Calc Tune. So, that sort of made you a Guinea Pig. I was encouraging you to give Calc Tune a good vetting to see what it will do. Perhaps, you've shown the value of at least using MLV for verification. You may have also shown that in some cases it might be necessary to make manual fine adjustments in the end with the aid of MLV (Calc Tune might get you in the neighborhood but that's it). Your experience might also serve notice not to trust what Calc Tune produces just because it's down to making adjustments of 5% or less.

Regardless - you have not given manual adjustments an opportunity to get-r-done for you. I would do that first.
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  #1677  
Old 28th June 2012
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Originally Posted by Hutch08 View Post
Then i'll compare it to a log with the current Calc Tune configuration. See what worked best.

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I'm not certain that I would continue screwing with Calc Tune if manual adjustments start moving you where you need to be. As far as the vetting of Calc Tune goes - I think you've done enough in service to this thread, forum, and the readership at large. I for one won't be asking you to waste more of your time with it. Instead - if I were you - by now I would just be wanting a satisfactory tune and the freedom to move on to greener pastures.

See what happens with the manual adjustments. If it goes well then stick with it...
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  #1678  
Old 28th June 2012
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Originally Posted by Hutch08 View Post
Well after applying with calc tune, you can see the new ve's add 2% to that exact area, I guess i'll just re-log with this current tune and see what happens.

You recommend jumping right to the AFR table next though? What about "phase 2" of checking o2 voltages for lean spots?



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When you look for your lean spots you needed to make sure not just to look at your o2 delta....but use a trace graph to see if your lean condition is because you are dropping speed, tp, or rpm... You can chase your tail hunting for lean issues if you aren't considering where and why they are occurring...

Lean conditions are dangerous under med and high loads but are normal to see in light load areas and really won't hurt anything...

If your graph says you are going lean but your map sensor is saying you are in decell then scrap the data.... When you are at the point where you keep adding and subtracting as little as 1 or 2% back and forth you are so close on your ve. Your ve will jump back and forth that way just because of fuels, temps, and loads....you will almost never see a 1 in your calc tune in the same cell every single log. Once you are that close start pushing afr's where you want them to be...

Checking o2 volts can help you find things like AE issues etc... They will show you lean spots here and there yes, the range where it occurs is what's important.

For fun, keep your tune as is....ride and log it twice in different conditions, fill up the tank and log it again.... All 3 logs will show slightly different. What you are looking for are areas that are constantly + or - 5 or 8%.... 2% is nothing to sweat bud

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  #1679  
Old 28th June 2012
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Originally Posted by JasonSarratt View Post
When you look for your lean spots you needed to make sure not just to look at your o2 delta....but use a trace graph to see if your lean condition is because you are dropping speed, tp, or rpm... You can chase your tail hunting for lean issues if you aren't considering where and why they are occurring...

Lean conditions are dangerous under med and high loads but are normal to see in light load areas and really won't hurt anything...

If your graph says you are going lean but your map sensor is saying you are in decell then scrap the data.... When you are at the point where you keep adding and subtracting as little as 1 or 2% back and forth you are so close on your ve. Your ve will jump back and forth that way just because of fuels, temps, and loads....you will almost never see a 1 in your calc tune in the same cell every single log. Once you are that close start pushing afr's where you want them to be...

Checking o2 volts can help you find things like AE issues etc... They will show you lean spots here and there yes, the range where it occurs is what's important.

For fun, keep your tune as is....ride and log it twice in different conditions, fill up the tank and log it again.... All 3 logs will show slightly different. What you are looking for are areas that are constantly + or - 5 or 8%.... 2% is nothing to sweat bud

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2

It took a little while but I learned not to get hung up on small changes from log to log; I've learned to expect the small differences and swings. I found learning to interpret the logviewer in MLV helped me find answers to some of what I was seeing but not fully understanding from the data in the scatterplots, especially the role of load. I also make sure I keep in mind the scales for what I'm observing.
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  #1680  
Old 28th June 2012
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Trace and Jason are both spot on.

Hutch08, you do want to do step two. It is simply a reality check on your step two work. The bike should feel better than ever before on step two. It will run even better yet on step three.

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