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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #1  
Old 29th August 2011
73xlch1000 73xlch1000 is offline
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Default proper kickstarting

I hate to ask this but is there.. or can someone post a video of the proper way to kicksart a 73 xlch 1000? ive been told i need to learn. mine takes a bunch of kicks for it to start but when it does it runs perfect from an instant, dont have to touch the throttle at all to keep it running, but sometimes it will start with choke and other times it will only start with it off. if it starts with choke i have to turn the choke off real quick as soon as it fires up. the plugs/wires are great it has either a points eliminator kit or electric ignition, whatever it is is pretty new, only thing else i can think of is the valves ajustment?
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Old 29th August 2011
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Ivan RoachCoach Ivan RoachCoach is offline
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Default Each bike...

...is individual and has it's own particular starting ritual.
What it likes or doesn't like is based upon too many variables (carb, ignition, throttle response, etc.) to make a one-fits-all routine a near impossibility.

It usually takes living with a bike awhile to figure out what YOUR bike needs to keep it happy & make starting an easy affair.

Mine, for example, will usually fire with a decent half-kick & a squirt or two of throttle (hot or cold) the first time out --- but then again, we've had a 19-year relationship sealed with blood, suffering & sacrifice.
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Old 29th August 2011
73xlch1000 73xlch1000 is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan RoachCoach View Post
...is individual and has it's own particular starting ritual.
What it likes or doesn't like is based upon too many variables (carb, ignition, throttle response, etc.) to make a one-fits-all routine a near impossibility.

It usually takes living with a bike awhile to figure out what YOUR bike needs to keep it happy & make starting an easy affair.

Mine, for example, will usually fire with a decent half-kick & a squirt or two of throttle (hot or cold) the first time out --- but then again, we've had a 19-year relationship sealed with blood, suffering & sacrifice.
I just checked my plug gap and its just over .25 and since i have the points eliminator or electric ignition i think maybe the gap should be bigger? i dont know if that would make a diif. in its starting or not though.
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Old 29th August 2011
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Ivan RoachCoach Ivan RoachCoach is offline
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Default For electronic ignition...

...your spark plug gap should be at .040".
Do you have a factory service manual, or are you just winging it?

And, YEAH, it makes a big difference in starting.
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Old 29th August 2011
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Ivan RoachCoach Ivan RoachCoach is offline
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Default BTW, what you have...

...appears to be a Dyna S --- or at least that's what the pic in another thread of yours appears to show.
They're extremely reliable & user-friendly without a lot of unnecessary gizmos like rev limiters (seriously, on an ironhead?) and programmable advance curves.
It is NOT a points eliminator but an electronic ignition, just not a fully-electronic unit.
It retains the mechanical advance unit, which is a plus if it ever craps out (though they rarely do) because you can just pop in a points plate & go.

I've had mine for years with ZERO issues, other than an occasional snapped flyweight spring.
Which is something you may want to take a look at (the advance springs) because a busted or stretched spring can play havoc with starting.




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Old 29th August 2011
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Default

I have a Crane electronic ignition and it starts first kick...with the proper routine.

I kick it twice with the choke on...the ignition is off....those kicks dont count.

Then turn on the ignition....then during the next kick... flip the throttle a tad...and pow..its running.

Learn your starting routine before changing things if it running good now.

I watched the PO fight this thing when trying to start it....like he didnt have a routine...just keep kicking...lol
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Old 29th August 2011
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Default

What carb are you running? Im running a mikuni, so I have the enrigher on (Hot/Cold) three kicks with the key off, turn the key on, Then one more kick and shes on, If I use the throttle is takes a lot more kicks
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Old 29th August 2011
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Be sure that your valves are adjusted right, and your timing as well. Sounds like your carb is good. From there, the other posts here basically cover it.

If those three items are good, you'll be able to spend more time grinnin' and ridin' and less time kicking.
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  #9  
Old 29th August 2011
GA_Ironhead GA_Ironhead is offline
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Default

> ...only thing else i can think of is the valves ajustment?

Which will make a big difference in ease of starting, if they're out of adjustment.
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Old 29th August 2011
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaDON View Post
What carb are you running? Im running a mikuni, so I have the enrigher on (Hot/Cold) three kicks with the key off, turn the key on, Then one more kick and shes on, If I use the throttle is takes a lot more kicks

The Mikuni is different from most other carbs.
With a Mikuni carb the enricher is what makes it so easy to start.
Also, you never give a Mikuni any throttle when you start the engine. Just have the enricher on, with either a hot or cold engine and give it no throttle whatsoever.
If you do give it throttle, expect the engine not to start.
pg
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