Springers for the EFI Rubber Mount Frame??? - Page 4

in the wind · #31 25th February 2012

HF48 - i am assuming you want the offset so you have turning clearance between upper tree/bars and tank-(how often do we actually go lock to lock,i plan on installing locks right on the lower tree to prevent hitting)-or you could move the tank back....i would be more concerned w/ geometry for bike handling purposes--rake/trail is very important--to much or to little could be deadly..johnny,what was the trail on yours if you know ? i wonder if krypto has trail info-handling on highway or slow any different,or dangerous feeling depending on how far off trail is ...
btw-the led-sled is in-line/close-up pics on their site-
also i got all requested info back from twisted-looks good so far-when i get him the measurements from the bike he can then tell me what the trail will be--i will keep you posted.....

Likemlouder · #32 25th February 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by in the wind

HF48 - i am assuming you want the offset so you have turning clearance between upper tree/bars and tank-(how often do we actually go lock to lock,i plan on installing locks right on the lower tree to prevent hitting)-or you could move the tank back....i would be more concerned w/ geometry for bike handling purposes--rake/trail is very important--to much or to little could be deadly..johnny,what was the trail on yours if you know ? i wonder if krypto has trail info-handling on highway or slow any different,or dangerous feeling depending on how far off trail is ...
btw-the led-sled is in-line/close-up pics on their site-
also i got all requested info back from twisted-looks good so far-when i get him the measurements from the bike he can then tell me what the trail will be--i will keep you posted.....

not sure on the trake and trail. but the bike rode good handled a little diffrent but for my style of riding it never give me a problem. you could borrow a Dna and bolt it up and check it it is a direct fit except turn radius

in the wind · #33 25th February 2012

ok- i was just wondering if you ever checked it--- i am sure for the type of riding that i do and on a hardtail it would suit me just fine too...
and i posted this on another springer thread so i will put it here .. http://www.cycledoctor.com/Articles/Rake&Trail.htm

Likemlouder · #34 25th February 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by in the wind

ok- i was just wondering if you ever checked it--- i am sure for the type of riding that i do and on a hardtail it would suit me just fine too...
and posted this on another springer thread so i will put it here .. http://www.cycledoctor.com/Articles/Rake&Trail.htm

Good info Thanks for the link. i have been riding cut up bikes since the late 60s early 70s some of the old bikes i rode handled terribly. the 07 didn't and the chop in my sig rides as good as stock up to 70 turning is a little heavy when stopped or barely moving turning the bike around. but neither bike has had any wobble. never had em up to 100 though. i will check the rake and trail on the bike i have now one day. never asked Seth when he raked it. but i have already rode it enough to know it is not out far enough to be Dangerous

HoldFast48 · #35 2nd March 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by in the wind

HF48 - i am assuming you want the offset so you have turning clearance between upper tree/bars and tank-(how often do we actually go lock to lock,i plan on installing locks right on the lower tree to prevent hitting)-or you could move the tank back....i would be more concerned w/ geometry for bike handling purposes--rake/trail is very important--to much or to little could be deadly..johnny,what was the trail on yours if you know ? i wonder if krypto has trail info-handling on highway or slow any different,or dangerous feeling depending on how far off trail is ...
btw-the led-sled is in-line/close-up pics on their site-
also i got all requested info back from twisted-looks good so far-when i get him the measurements from the bike he can then tell me what the trail will be--i will keep you posted.....

Exactly... The whole reason I sent back the zero fork was because the rear forks would hit the down tubes with only a few degrees of turn. It would have been dangerous / annoying in parking lots and intersections.

I'm not too crazy about doing the down tube mod in case I decide to go back to the stock set up or try a different springer fork if I don't like whatever I put on.

What offset are you going to have Twisted build for you, or are you letting them dictate what it will be?

I didn't think to ask Led Sled about rake and trail cuz they say this is specific for the rubber mount frames, but I agree how important it is so I'm gonna give them a call just now....

in the wind · #36 3rd March 2012

hf48- i will be making a mock-up trees/rear legs to compare the difference in turning radius,using the measurements i got from twisted -- one measurement stock-then one w/ the specs from twisted,and see the difference-- the legs are thinner than stock forks so that would give more turn-also the wide one would spread the forks apart even more allowing more turn before hitting -- i will keep you informed

HoldFast48 · #37 3rd March 2012

Sounds good IntheWind.
I talked to Pat yesterday at Led Sled and asked a few more questions. We didn't get into dimension details but I had mentioned that Joe and I never spoke about rake and trail specifically ---- but that I assumed it was ok not mentioning since they're building these front ends specifically for these model sporty's and he said, yeah their all correct but you CAN land up changing the rake if you mess too much with changing up the rear shocks.

I guess I intend on dropping the rear with the Licks or Burly shocks.
I'm supposed to decide if I want the front end 1" shorter than stock or just leave it alone.
I really want to but am nervous about making the wrong call and going too low up front, and the last thing I need is the front lower than the rear!

Here's my thinking... the bike currently sits level. If I drop the rear 1" and I have the opportunity to drop the front 1" then I should right. The bike currently has 3.9" of ground clearance so I guess then I'd have 2.9" and a level bike.

Joe was the one who kept at me about dropping it an inch - said I was gonna love it, but I really question if everyone realizes these 48's come pretty slammed right off the showroom floor. The older sports I agree are super high.

Anyway, questioning if I should just drop the rear??? I think if I get a low profile kickstand I'll be ok at dropping both and I DO want a super low look... but of course it's not a rigid so I'm not too sure it that's too low. What do you guys reckon?

HoldFast48 · #38 5th March 2012

Joe over at Led Sled is setting up the jig to knock out at least two wide springers for rubber mount frames. now is the time to get your order in! I told him I'd let the forum guys know now is the time to order and he said bring em!
Tell em Justin sent you!

As a side note I ordered mine at stock ride height. I thought about dropping and inch and matching Licks 10" shocks in the rear but I'm gonna run into clearance issues with my chain and my fender mod if I do....
So I'm keeping it at 21" from bottom of neck tube to axle center. I've given this a lot of thought so anyone considering the same I recommend 21" not 20"
Hell the bike is low enough already! And if you want u can still drop the rear but the last thing you want is the front lower than rear combined with a springer!

in the wind · #39 6th March 2012

i am hopng to get to my garage in the next couple of days -- glad to hear yours is in the making

AJG · #40 23rd April 2012

Will follow as I picked up a used DNA from a brother and it is for a dyna. Checking some things out and trying to decide. Getting warmer and would rather ride!