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11th May 2012
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Know It All
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 159 Sportster/Buell Model: xlh1000 Sportster/Buell Year: 81 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Ironhead XLH/XL Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1975 Other Motorcycle Model: Kawasaki 550 Other Motorcycle Year: 1981
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Well I had a rubber o ring and a brass crush washer on it, they got intertwined somehow and caused my leak. Drained and took off the washer, now it's looking really good. I also put some thread sealant from autozone on the threads.
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Joshua T
Deployed to South East Asia 10 times....no more for me!!! :banana
Nevada Pigeon Control Safety Officer
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11th May 2012
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Senior Chief Harley Engineer 1st Class
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Minnysoda
Posts: 1,357 Sportster/Buell Model: AMF XLS Roadster Sportster/Buell Year: 1981
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I don't see the necessity for a torque spec. on this bolt. Kind of like torque specs on plugs........
Just make it snug. I just take a wrench and instead of gripping it at the end as usual, grip it at the end next to the bolt, and snug it up.
Holding the wrench this way reduces the chance of cranking on the bolt and stripping it out.
It doesn't need to be super tight.
Or better yet, follow Hopper's cool idea.
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Question Authority
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11th May 2012
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Rider Of The Iron Steed
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: London, ON Canada
Posts: 23,727 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenyears of famine
My searches led me to finding a popular torque setting of 22 lbs.
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IMO that would be too much. I would guess more than 10 but less than 20 ft lbs. However, i think the best is to use your own good judgement. It does not have to be cranked on there. It will not come off. Trust.
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12th May 2012
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Know It All
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 172 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: '60 Other Motorcycle Model: xs650 Other Motorcycle Year: '72
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Alright, I'm ready to give this another shot. I need help narrowing it down though. Here's what I got.
I picked up a couple new bolts (will cut down), the hex head takes a 3/4" wrench (vs the stock 5/8) and I can see that making it even easier to over tighten, so I found the allen head bolt. I'm really liking it, won't be able to get too much leverage on it but I'm not sure it's the smartest thing to put in. I've had a lot of allen heads strip and I can see myself regretting it.
The washers, from left to right: neoprene, fiber, "fibre", nylon, o-ring, & copper washer.
And then there's the teflon tape and some various sealants.
So, what's the winning combination? What would you try first?
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13th May 2012
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Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,281 Sportster/Buell Model: xls roadster Sportster/Buell Year: 1982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenyears of famine
Alright, I'm ready to give this another shot. I need help narrowing it down though. Here's what I got.
I picked up a couple new bolts (will cut down), the hex head takes a 3/4" wrench (vs the stock 5/8) and I can see that making it even easier to over tighten, so I found the allen head bolt. I'm really liking it, won't be able to get too much leverage on it but I'm not sure it's the smartest thing to put in. I've had a lot of allen heads strip and I can see myself regretting it.
The washers, from left to right: neoprene, fiber, "fibre", nylon, o-ring, & copper washer.
And then there's the teflon tape and some various sealants.
So, what's the winning combination? What would you try first?
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I use the copper permtex utra around the drain plug. Nikki
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the difficult can be done immediatey the impossible takes a little longer
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13th May 2012
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pottstown PA.
Posts: 5,135 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1960
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i,believe the ulra black,is an improved version of the copper.
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72 1000cc barrels and heads, s&s 41/2'' flywheels, sifton cams, s&s super B w/ zippers thunderjet w/yost powertube, andrews gears,and shafts, competition engineering kevlar wet or dry clutch, 72 oil pump, morris magneto w/auto advance and single fire module, cycle electric generator w/electronic regulator,73 cu.in.
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13th May 2012
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pottstown PA.
Posts: 5,135 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1960
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i,would try allen head,copper washer,with o,ring against the case. the copper washer should keep the allen bolt,from chewing up the o-ring. seal everything with silicone. don't think you have to worry about stripping out the allen head,the case will strip first. also,teflon tape on the threads. when applying the tape you have to wind it in the direction that it wont,unravel when tightening.
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13th May 2012
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Rider Of The Iron Steed
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: London, ON Canada
Posts: 23,727 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1978
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Ultra Black has a lower max temperature rating than the Copper. That is why we use the Copper for sealing the exhausts - it has the highest max temperature resistance.
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13th May 2012
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Booneville,Ms.
Posts: 2,053 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year: 1974
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I didn't see any sewing thread in that collection.
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Murphy's Law
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13th May 2012
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Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,281 Sportster/Buell Model: xls roadster Sportster/Buell Year: 1982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick
Ultra Black has a lower max temperature rating than the Copper. That is why we use the Copper for sealing the exhausts - it has the highest max temperature resistance.
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Mick I had the copper pertex left over in dad's tool box , so I used it . it was high temp so that is what I would buy . I know over kill . Nikki
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