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  #31  
Old 11th May 2012
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Well I had a rubber o ring and a brass crush washer on it, they got intertwined somehow and caused my leak. Drained and took off the washer, now it's looking really good. I also put some thread sealant from autozone on the threads.
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  #32  
Old 11th May 2012
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I don't see the necessity for a torque spec. on this bolt. Kind of like torque specs on plugs........

Just make it snug. I just take a wrench and instead of gripping it at the end as usual, grip it at the end next to the bolt, and snug it up.

Holding the wrench this way reduces the chance of cranking on the bolt and stripping it out.

It doesn't need to be super tight.


Or better yet, follow Hopper's cool idea.
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  #33  
Old 11th May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenyears of famine View Post
My searches led me to finding a popular torque setting of 22 lbs.
IMO that would be too much. I would guess more than 10 but less than 20 ft lbs. However, i think the best is to use your own good judgement. It does not have to be cranked on there. It will not come off. Trust.
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  #34  
Old 12th May 2012
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Alright, I'm ready to give this another shot. I need help narrowing it down though. Here's what I got.



I picked up a couple new bolts (will cut down), the hex head takes a 3/4" wrench (vs the stock 5/8) and I can see that making it even easier to over tighten, so I found the allen head bolt. I'm really liking it, won't be able to get too much leverage on it but I'm not sure it's the smartest thing to put in. I've had a lot of allen heads strip and I can see myself regretting it.

The washers, from left to right: neoprene, fiber, "fibre", nylon, o-ring, & copper washer.

And then there's the teflon tape and some various sealants.

So, what's the winning combination? What would you try first?
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  #35  
Old 13th May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenyears of famine View Post
Alright, I'm ready to give this another shot. I need help narrowing it down though. Here's what I got.



I picked up a couple new bolts (will cut down), the hex head takes a 3/4" wrench (vs the stock 5/8) and I can see that making it even easier to over tighten, so I found the allen head bolt. I'm really liking it, won't be able to get too much leverage on it but I'm not sure it's the smartest thing to put in. I've had a lot of allen heads strip and I can see myself regretting it.

The washers, from left to right: neoprene, fiber, "fibre", nylon, o-ring, & copper washer.

And then there's the teflon tape and some various sealants.

So, what's the winning combination? What would you try first?
I use the copper permtex utra around the drain plug. Nikki
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  #36  
Old 13th May 2012
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i,believe the ulra black,is an improved version of the copper.
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  #37  
Old 13th May 2012
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i,would try allen head,copper washer,with o,ring against the case. the copper washer should keep the allen bolt,from chewing up the o-ring. seal everything with silicone. don't think you have to worry about stripping out the allen head,the case will strip first. also,teflon tape on the threads. when applying the tape you have to wind it in the direction that it wont,unravel when tightening.
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  #38  
Old 13th May 2012
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Ultra Black has a lower max temperature rating than the Copper. That is why we use the Copper for sealing the exhausts - it has the highest max temperature resistance.
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  #39  
Old 13th May 2012
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I didn't see any sewing thread in that collection.
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  #40  
Old 13th May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
Ultra Black has a lower max temperature rating than the Copper. That is why we use the Copper for sealing the exhausts - it has the highest max temperature resistance.
Mick I had the copper pertex left over in dad's tool box , so I used it . it was high temp so that is what I would buy . I know over kill . Nikki
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