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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #1  
Old 15th June 2012
buckwild buckwild is offline
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Default Still undecided (how to get 80hp at 6k)

after reading all the threads i could keep changing my mind on many things like carb, cams and heads lol
I know what i want to accomplish but not sure how to get there so I figured i would just ask.
I have seen many dynos runs where power is up to the 7000 rpm range, I dont want to run that high of an RPM. I would like to hit around 80 HP in the 6000 range but I want lots of lower end torque.
Im definately going with a 1250 kit. What else would i need to get to my goal?

Last edited by Folkie; 20th June 2012 at 19:52..
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  #2  
Old 15th June 2012
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Sounds like the Andrews N4 / SE497 cams (they're the same) would suit you well - gives good power across the rev range, up to 6,000rpm+, and they bolt in with no clearance issues. N4's need a higher compression than you have as stock, but the right pistons with the 1250 kit could probably sort that out, and the combination should gve you a useful boost without getting into headwork. Ask NRHS or Hammer Performance for their recommendations. With headwork, you would easily crack 80HP.

If you want to rev to 6000rpm, then you'll probably need an aftermarket ignition system - most stock ones seem to limit revs to 5300rpm.

As for the carburettor, a properly jetted stock CV is more than adequate to reach 80HP. Swapping to a Mikuni HSR42 will not add power, but they do give quicker throttle response that feels like more power. A decent exhaust system and air filter is more important for what you want.
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  #3  
Old 15th June 2012
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Everythng steelworker just said is 100% correct.

A 1250 kit deisgned for 883 heads, stage 1 headwork using your stock heads and a set of N4/SE 497s and an exhaust/air cleaner upgrade should give you exactly what you are looking for.

Feel free to e-mail or call me if you have any other questions. And my customers will tell you that I do not do the "hard sell" to get you to buy something you do not need like some other shops tend to do.
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  #4  
Old 15th June 2012
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hi dan what the power range of you cats three cams.
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  #5  
Old 15th June 2012
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Bob,
I have a dyno test my wifes 2007 1200R with the stock W cams and the Cat 3 cams without changing anything internally. The red line is the NRHS Cat 3 cams:



The Cat 3 cams have a kind of late intake closing so they really need at least 10:1 compression for best performance. A stock 1200 only has about 9.8:1 so I would recommend at a minimum you deck the heads a bit and use some thinner head gaskets if you want to use these as you can see it gives up some power at the lower rpms due to the lower cr. I plan to install a 10.5:1 1250 kit into her bike soon and will re-dyno it to see what differences it makes but still keep stock 1200 heads. I will post those results when I have them
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  #6  
Old 15th June 2012
buckwild buckwild is offline
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what kind of torque would i be getting with that combo on the low end?
What kind of turn around time does it take for the heads? Also stage 1 would be mild porting?
Also when I got this sporty it had a SE breather and vance and hines exhaust.
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  #7  
Old 16th June 2012
buckwild buckwild is offline
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Thanks Bob, its a great place
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  #8  
Old 18th June 2012
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Buck, 80+ horsepower, at under 6000rpm, and 80+ lb-ft of torque, are achievable on 883 heads without porting ... our competition valve job alone on otherwise stock 883 heads has made more than that for people multiple times. A competition valve job from HAMMER would cost you less than half as much as a porting job.

Impact or Smash porting your heads of course would add even more power, but you're paying for more top end power, not the bottom end you're looking for. We'd be happy to do it, but it's just an unnecessary expense with your goals.

The reason 883 heads respond so well to our competition valve job is they have a very large bowl area that necks down to an itty-bitty valve with a very poorly blended seat. It's a recipe for turbulence. We use a special CNC program that opens up the seat i.d., blending it into the bowl properly, and then shapes the seat for maximum flow as it blends it into the chamber. It goes right to the heart of the biggest problem with those heads.

With respect to 1250 kits, your bike being a solid mount motor will especially benefit from a 1250 kit with ultra lightweight pistons. Less piston weight reduces vibration, reduces wear and tear on the lower end, and increases power. I would advise one of our flat top kits, and have HAMMER Dan relieve your chambers to get the compression down to a pump gas friendly level, and pair that with an appropriate set of cams. The flat tops will leave your upgrade options open in case you ever decide you want more, as opposed to the dished 883 conversion pistons which locks you into 883 heads.

If you'd like, HAMMER Dan can even upgrade your head hardware to the late model 7mm stem valves with beehive springs, which will open the door to even better cams. The new hardware is not expensive at all.

Please take a few moments to read about the head prep technology used at Hammer Performance. Literally thousands of XL heads have been run through this process over the last decade, and it uses CNC technology that nobody else has. Dyno charts of HAMMER Dan's work are all over the NRHS site (they sent all their heads to HAMMER Dan until just recently), the Hammer site, and the XL Forum. In short, we have the experience and technology to do the best work possible for you, and the proven results to back it up.

Good luck with your project!
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  #9  
Old 19th June 2012
buckwild buckwild is offline
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that is my goal, keepin the rpms down and having lower end torque will make this a great street ride but have the power to play some too.
Im gonna have to get the stuff to do this a little at a time.
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  #10  
Old 20th June 2012
SRhugger01 SRhugger01 is offline
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This is great info, because it's what I'm looking for too. Thanks.
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