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21st July 2012
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pottstown PA.
Posts: 5,138 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1960
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thank's,but i,don't give a,rep!
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72 1000cc barrels and heads, s&s 41/2'' flywheels, sifton cams, s&s super B w/ zippers thunderjet w/yost powertube, andrews gears,and shafts, competition engineering kevlar wet or dry clutch, 72 oil pump, morris magneto w/auto advance and single fire module, cycle electric generator w/electronic regulator,73 cu.in.
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21st July 2012
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Know It All
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 172 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: '60 Other Motorcycle Model: xs650 Other Motorcycle Year: '72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucstoudt
thank's,but i,don't give a,rep!
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haha, now were having some fun 
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21st July 2012
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Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 487 Sportster/Buell Model: XR 750 Sportster/Buell Year: 1972 Sportster/Buell Model #2: RR 250 Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenyears of famine
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JHC, this is a one pound raw sand casting probably out of China not even deburred and they want sixty bucks for it ? Where do I sign up to be a ripoff Harley parts supplier ?
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21st July 2012
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Senior Chief Master Mechanic 2nd Class
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: On a farm
Posts: 1,543 Sportster/Buell Model: XL77.2R Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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Some prefer TIG and other MIG (metal inert gas was invented to weld aluminum). The joint preparation is crucial, well open joint, preheat and clean. During welding, making sure dross are remove prior to deposit a new weldment. Dont over heat the joint during welding help prevent hotcracking. What is the most omitted is aging after welding. Aging is accomplish by holding the part in an oven at 350 F for 12 hour. Slow cooling and let alone for a couple days, in a sunny place. After this, machine the casting. The aluminum need to relax itself before being put to stress; bolting the part together, inserting a bearing or machining inducing stress. You patience will be rewarded with a good solid job.
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21st July 2012
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Senior Bike Builder
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,996 Sportster/Buell Model: Custom Sputhe XR Sportster/Buell Year: 19** Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenyears of famine
So let me see if I got this right. My pic is on the left, the one Dr dick posted is on the right
I will need to machine an aluminum collar, if you will, to slide over that counter shaft piece and weld that in. Then, make a solid plug to fit in the speedo hole & weld it from the outside. The main shaft hole has nothing done to it, other than being welded to the c/s collar.
Am I looking at this right?
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Theres a photo of Monte's bolt on steel type ring in this thread:
http://www.xlforum.net/vbportal/foru...1347604&page=2
I cannot find the photo from the outside, possibly he can redirect or post pic.
Please jump in if someone thinks Im missing something.
I believe its the fit between the new ring outer face and the radiused wall that makes it stronger, these need to be fixed as one. This area needs more case surface area to support the load.
Take a look at the your non repaired c/s bearing boss, its only maybe 3/16" wall and protrudes toward the trap door. Thats alot of overhang and possible leverage that can bust that corner.
The only meat supporting the bearing/shaft is the perpendicular area of bearing boss to the case wall. So making this overhang have more support radially is the way to go.
The bolt on ring may be easier for some machinists or shops.
Some guys are terrified of welding aluminum, not all machinist can weld and not all weldors can machine. You need a guy that is proficient at both.
Just giving you an idea of options.
There is a threaded plug you can install in speedo hole: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPEEDO-BLOCK...#ht_665wt_1348
I think the real issue is the c/s area.
Anyone else think the speedo hole should be welded?
More stuff here:
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=56923
See how strong the factory made it w/ no speedo gear relief (newer gen. case):

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22nd July 2012
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Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 487 Sportster/Buell Model: XR 750 Sportster/Buell Year: 1972 Sportster/Buell Model #2: RR 250 Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevelle
I think the real issue is the c/s area.
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Exactly. Think of it this way : the gears are trying to spread the two shafts apart. The more power you transmit, the more they will try to spread. For regular use it's probably okay but say you go over some railroad tracks or a slippy white line while you're on it. The wheel spins. You get sudden traction on the other side. Wheel grabs. Wham ! Loads go to the moon. Case breaks.
So anything you can do to support the bearings against spreading will be a help.
Quote:
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See how strong the factory made it w/ no speedo gear relief (newer gen. case): (photo)
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That's what needs to be done for a never-worry-again fix. The closer you can get to that the better. Or just ride it more gently. People drive MG TC's around without fixing all their weaknesses .... carefully 
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22nd July 2012
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Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,085
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link to reinforcement thread
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