So, i traced all my wires and this is how it breaks down. The "Solid State Control Module" that mounts close to the battery is gone. I see where it used to be but the box is not there. So I'm not sure what is controlling the timing and coil dwell time that it was supposed to be. The bike has been running for a while without it (at least a couple years) so I guess whoever wired it up set it up somehow to run without it.
Now from the coil there is a Positive lead going to a 12V/45amp fuse and a second Positive lead and a Negative lead running to the underneath of the cam cover and into the ignition components behind the points cover. The negative has a good ground in there and theres juice coming into the coil from the positive leads. With that said, Im figuring if I have good juice and, good ground the problem has to be the coil. Im going to replace it and a new set of plugs on payday and hopefully I will bring her back to life. If anyone has any advice or other opinions please let me know. Thanks.
What criteria are you using to identify wires as positive or negative?
What is wired to the other side of the 12/45 fuse?
Have you taken the points cover off to see what is in there?
The problem is not necessarily the coil so i would not buy one yet. Most likely points and condensor setup behind the points cover and most likely this is where the problem is; or possibly an aftermarket electronic ignition in there?
I'll bet there are points under the cover and you need to file the points reset the dwell and add a new condenser from what you are describing its been retrofitted back to points. here is a test for the coil take off the neg. side of the coil and put power to the pos. side take both of the plugs out and then put them in the wires and ground the plug to the engine hook a small jumper wire to the neg side of the coil with the other end of the wire just tapp it to the engine or other ground source. this will collapse the magnetic field if the coil is good producing spark at the plugs every time you break contact with ground.
IF IT NEVER BREAKS THEN YOU DON'T RIDE IT
The bike has the electronic ignition, no points. I just said "points cover" as a common term. As for the criteria, the wire leads to the 12v/45a fuse I mentioned earlier and from there to the Positive side of the battery.
If it is the electronic ignition, what is a good test to rule that out?
well if it is electronic and not retro-fitted to points then take off the cover check the air gap in the reluctor assy sometimes the stator breaks from vibration and then it has no signal as it doesn't go through the pickup. if all looks good there then you can go to checking the pickup by using an ohm meter and checking it with the manual if it ohms out good spin the engine over with it hooked up you should see a major spike in ohms. as the shutter wheel goes through the pickup. if this is good next go to the module.