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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #31  
Old 19th August 2012
nrs_nate nrs_nate is offline
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I used the RIGHT STUFF, it's black and is made by peratex, I used it on the outside of the seal, then I waited for a while and installed the manifold while not fully cured. to make a good seal. It's curing right now.
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  #32  
Old 20th August 2012
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Originally Posted by nrs_nate View Post
I used the RIGHT STUFF, it's black and is made by peratex, I used it on the outside of the seal, then I waited for a while and installed the manifold while not fully cured. to make a good seal. It's curing right now.
Well, ya know I'm rootin for you. If this doesn't cure it, then you got a ghost in there.
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  #33  
Old 20th August 2012
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Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Well, ya know I'm rootin for you. If this doesn't cure it, then you got a ghost in there.
I am, also. I suggested applying on the outside of the intake manifold to temporarily prove out the leak, expecting to resurface it (I agree with your warped comment) after that...but this should cure it, at least for some time.
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  #34  
Old 20th August 2012
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I am, also. I suggested applying on the outside of the intake manifold to temporarily prove out the leak, expecting to resurface it (I agree with your warped comment) after that...but this should cure it, at least for some time.
I didn't realize my comment was warped.

Nate hasn't been back in a while, so maybe he is out riding?
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  #35  
Old 20th August 2012
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I didn't realize my comment was warped.

Nate hasn't been back in a while, so maybe he is out riding?
You commented that the mating surfaces may be warped...but, maybe your comment could have been warped, too!

Hopefully he is riding and not pushing
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  #36  
Old 20th August 2012
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I'm riding!! permatex worked and I found out where it was leaking. there is some surface rust where it was leaking
Thanks guys!!!!!
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  #37  
Old 21st August 2012
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I'm riding!! permatex worked and I found out where it was leaking. there is some surface rust where it was leaking
Thanks guys!!!!!
Great!
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  #38  
Old 21st August 2012
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Originally Posted by nrs_nate View Post
I'm riding!! permatex worked and I found out where it was leaking. there is some surface rust where it was leaking
Thanks guys!!!!!
Very good. NOw a set of new plugs. I don't see the bike year up there now. I think it was 97? I'm thinking you need DCPR7E plugs (NGK).

Then we can see if that white is gone, (White being on the inner metal wall and the base ring, not the porcelain to be exact). Important to be sure that this is cured and not running lean.
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  #39  
Old 21st August 2012
nrs_nate nrs_nate is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Very good. NOw a set of new plugs. I don't see the bike year up there now. I think it was 97? I'm thinking you need DCPR7E plugs (NGK).

Then we can see if that white is gone, (White being on the inner metal wall and the base ring, not the porcelain to be exact). Important to be sure that this is cured and not running lean.
I'm not too sure if I'm reading the plugs right..When I say white i mean the part where it's white when the plugs are new.
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  #40  
Old 22nd August 2012
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Originally Posted by nrs_nate View Post
I'm not too sure if I'm reading the plugs right..When I say white i mean the part where it's white when the plugs are new.
OK, that's something different.

In the carb/efi section there is a sticky that I put together "Plug Reading 101".

If you read that you will understand exactly how to read plugs and exactly what to be looking for.

Basically, the white porcelain is telling you that the plug heat range is correct (Dark brown to burnt black is too hot a plug, and gray or build up of deposits is too cold a plug), and the only other thing that I read off porcelain is timing (too advanced leaves black specks on the white that look like pepper). Heat range can be confused with engine problems causing the white to discolor, so some times this takes some thinking, but a good engine with good clean plugs it will always be accurate.

Rich and lean are seen on the metal inside the plug, and you need a magnifying glass to see all the way to the bottom to read it correctly.

When you get time, read that and let me know if you have any questions. With that tool in your bag of tricks you will be able to tune about anything as well as any pro.
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