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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 15th September 2012
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I think you cannot use the early type, like 1972, that requires removal of the primary cover to do the adjust. You can use either of the two types of spring shown in the parts catalog 994561-85A page 60 - the flat spring metal in the pic above [40019-77] or the wire spring with the two coils [40019-80A].
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  #12  
Old 15th September 2012
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Originally Posted by 72 Ironhead XLH View Post
can you use the style in the 1972 type.
'77 was first year of true left side shift with pegs etc coming out of the primary, i don't think the left case half has the correct bosses with the two bolt holes for that type of chain adjuster. that's a '76 - down thing.
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  #13  
Old 15th September 2012
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Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
'77 was first year of true left side shift with pegs etc coming out of the primary, i don't think the left case half has the correct bosses with the two bolt holes for that type of chain adjuster. that's a '76 - down thing.
doodah man and Mick are right 77 to 85 iron head primary cases do not have the bosses for the 76 and down chain adjuster. Nikki
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  #14  
Old 15th September 2012
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I wouldn't risk busting the cases, weld that sucker up, redrill and tap. the plastic shoe is a $5 part, part # 40019-77 shouldn't cost much either.
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  #15  
Old 15th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
i,think the weld repair can be done with the motor in the frame.as long as you remove the gas tank,and carb,and drain the oil.
Ok welder has been booked. What else has to be done to weld this sucker still in frame. brucstoudt mentioned draining the oil. I'm assuming that means the dreaded crankcase drainplug. Gas tank and carb aren't an issue to break down.

Can't seem to find any details on pulling the motor sprocket in the FSM so i'm assuming it's straight forward.

Anything else?
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  #16  
Old 15th September 2012
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no!!!,just drain the oil out of the tank,so it does'nt spill. leave that drain plug in place. does the welder know the motor is in the frame,and has to be laid on it's side.
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  #17  
Old 15th September 2012
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i,use a 2,jaw puller to remove my motor sprocket. some model's have threaded hole's in the sprocket to pull with.
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  #18  
Old 15th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhaines View Post
... Can't seem to find any details on pulling the motor sprocket in the FSM so i'm assuming it's straight forward ...
Remove primary chain, motor sprocket and clutch assemblies all together. Motor sprocket nut will require a 5' steel pipe extension or an impact wrench; the latter probably being a better choice.
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  #19  
Old 15th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
no!!!,just drain the oil out of the tank,so it does'nt spill.
HAHAHAHAHA ok
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  #20  
Old 15th September 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
Remove primary chain, motor sprocket and clutch assemblies all together.
Taking the risk of basking in all of my newb gloriousness...

How can this get pulled all together.

I'm looking at the FSM and can't seem to figure out how to pull the clutch whole
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