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Sportster Motorcycle Motor - Top End Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Top End issues. Rockerboxes, Valves, Cylinders, Pistons, Rings, Lift Rods, etc...

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  #31  
Old 31st January 2007
Ozzeroky Ozzeroky is offline
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Default Oil Pressure

My first time on this site , so hallo to all from down under. Just became the custodian of a '93 1200 Sportywith 35000 klm'son the clock, and as you do with a new toy, washed it polished it and gave it a basic service. Just so that I would know where I was starting from. Now when I say I'm old school, I mean it. My Motorcycling career started with late 40's, early 50's British bikes, and the way you checkedthe oil flow was to remove the oil cap on the tank( same position as the sporty, some things never change) and watch the oil returning into the top of the tank. You will probably all know what's coming next! I eased out the oil plug bung, and out shot a great glop of oil, definitly under pressure, and all over the newly washed paintwork.So here's my question, is the tank meant to be under that type of pressure, and does it ever get to the point of blowing out the bung in the top, or splitting the tank? Ozzeroky
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  #32  
Old 17th May 2007
Gone Gone is offline
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One of our forum members had his tank split wide open (the new ones are injection molded plastic). However, I can't see why there should ever be pressure if the engine is operating properly.
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  #33  
Old 17th May 2007
Gone Gone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie1200 View Post
Very interesting information here.

My Dad is getting ready to get a 07 wide glide or softtail custom. What should I tell him to do for the break-in? He lives about 15 miles from the dealer that he would buy from. Not a huge distance, but enough to bring the motor to full operating tempature. Should we go down first thing in the morning with the intention of spending a good part of the day going through the first steps in the S&S proceedure that Stevo recommends?

It would look kinda funny sitting there after the purchase(not to mention a patience tester) starting it for a few minutes and shutting it down to cool completly. If it will produce the most power and least oil comsuption I will push him to try it, as I think it is worth it.

Question is: Do you guys with the best experience think it is worth it? or do you have any other ideas?
The engines are heat cycled and final inspected at the factory before being installed in a frame. The owner's manual gives general criteria for break-in mileage.
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  #34  
Old 11th June 2007
Torkil Torkil is offline
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I might have pushed the bike some, at 100miles now.
the good part is that i have only been running it for short distances, 15min rides at max (and it's cold up here, lol)
the bad part is that i make my self imagine that it runs worse than what it did the day i put it together, i constantly have to "check" if it still got it.
i think it's only my imagination. Isnt the bore and rings way better now than what they used to be? I want to test it, leakdown you say? and if i have, do i only have to change rings? thnx
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  #35  
Old 19th July 2007
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dewjantim dewjantim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aswracing View Post
Depends on how good the machine work is. If everything is perfect, it'll be seated when it's put together (it won't be though). If the bore and/or rings are out of round badly enough they may never seat.



The first run-ins are the most important. We like to start the motor and run it for about a minute, with fans blowing on it. Then let it cool ALL the way down. Repeat but the second time run it 2 minutes. Next time 3 minutes, etc. The idea is to let the rings do their job without overheating. They're very sensitive to localized overheating when only a little bit of them is touching the cylinder wall and you can damage the pistons easily.



Not if the rings are already seated.



You get the motor that hot before the rings are seated and you've probably already microwelded them. The thing with microwelding is that you may do it and never know it. It's primarily the top ring that does it, so you may not get any oil issues. It'll just be doomed to be a mediocre performer.



Not just no, but hell no!

Ron Dickey has an interesting case history of microwelding on his web site, it's worth a read:

http://www.axtellsales.com/RonsDocs/Ring%20Seal.pdf

Ron knows more about cylinders, pistons, and ring seal in his little finger than I'll ever know.
How do you break-in your race engines? Surely riding hundreds of miles on a race motor to break it in is out of the question? Dew.
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  #36  
Old 19th July 2007
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We run them on the dyno for about 20 miles. But what you do for a race motor which we intend to rebuild after only a few hundred miles at most is much different than a motor you are building for reliabilty on the street.
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  #37  
Old 28th August 2007
XLFREAK XLFREAK is offline
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Thanks for all the great info, and now I hate you guys for making me paranoid hahaha.. j/k Well, I was looking for a thread like this or similar to this because, I came home from my first benefit ride yesterday. 60 miles/2 hours of the ride, some open stretches, some putting around, some revving of the motor getting the crowds on the side of road a little treat. I also took it for a 60 mile run to meet up with a couple of guys, did the ride and rode about 50 or 60 miles back home. When I got home, oil was dripping from the S&S A/C cover, now, I don't know what's alot, this is my first bike ever, but, I freak at any sight of oil coming from any vehicle of mine, but it was definitely more than a "couple" of drops. Should I be worried?

Mind you, I ride my bike everyday to work and back, putting about 25 to 30 miles each way, more on the way home because I'm out cruising, and I've never seen any oil, maybe once or twice, but that was some speckles on the oil bag and on my cam cover...again, should I be worried?

It's a 1995 1200, with about 21,000 miles, 8,000 of those are mine.
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  #38  
Old 19th April 2008
devilmutt devilmutt is offline
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I have always believed that ANY motor, takes a thousand miles to properly break in. During break in, you have to follow certain rules. Always allow it to warm up. Avoid 'parade' ridiing, or excessive idle. Avoid highway riding, if you are maitaining a consistent RPM. Dont exceed 4000 RPM. Most important, dont put a final tune, or jet, an unbroken motor.

If the rings dont seat, which also includes the pistons becoming uniform with the cylinders, you will have problems for the life of the motor. I prefer to break in motors by taking 30 to 40 mile trips through the city. It offers stop and go, a variation of RPM's and gears, and does not put excessive pressure on the motor. That is just my method.

I lube my cylinders before installing the piston, but some men I am fond of, swear by installing them dry saying they seat immediatly after fire up. Cannot verify this, as it is not the way I learned, and I am worried about causing damage!
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  #39  
Old 9th September 2010
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groovemeisterus groovemeisterus is offline
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Is there a step by step procedure to help seat rings on a dyno for a street engine?

I'm sure the 1 minute, cool down, 2 minute, etc at home will come into play, but after that, is there a dyno procedure after the heat cycles seal the rings?

Getting ready to rebuild my engine and after heat cycles, would like to
give the dyno guy some instructions on what I want him to do to help
seat some new rings.

Not that he might not be experienced, but with my OCD, I want to make sure
it is done right... if it would be a right way to do it during the cold winter season when engine is complete.

Thanks for any feedback.

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