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  #1  
Old 29th May 2013
noone noone is offline
Greasemonkey
 
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Default 1982 xlh fluids and oil filter

Any tips on removing my oil filter? Rubber gloves? It's old and rusted from the previous owner and my guess is that it's original(mine is under 7,000 miles). I don't have access to a welder to stick a nut onto it either. Also, when I do remove the oil filter, should I be ready with a drip pan for oil to come out of the opening?

And also just to be 100% sure, how different from the "Ironhead oil change 101" sticky is changing my tranny oil for my '82 xlh? I noticed that my drain plug is not in the same place as shown in the sticky and also what size copper washer should I use to seal the plug?
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  #2  
Old 29th May 2013
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Assuming you have the stock oil filter mounted at the stock location on the side of the front motor mount like my '82 XLH, I usually use a small oil filter wrench (like this one) to remove the filter.



But I've also used a large pair of channel lock pliers. Once you get it started, it spins off with just your fingers like any oil filter. My filter is always too tight to use just my hands with rubber gloves to get it loose.

Assuming you run the engine to warm the oil up prior to changing it, all the engine oil should be in the oil tank. Only a few drops of oil will drip out when you remove the filter if you're careful in handling the filter once you get it off.

My tranny drain plug is in the same exact spot as what the sticky shows. Where is your tranny drain plug located? Can you post a picture of it?
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  #3  
Old 29th May 2013
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Thanks Kelly. The bike hasn't ran for +10 years and I am in the process of getting it back on the road where it should be. So, you would recommend to get it running first to warm up the oil and then replace the filter? Or would it be bad to just do it as is?

Channel pliers seem like the way to go for me since I don't have the funds for an oil filter wrench at the moment. Would the pliers as is, without any rubber to help grip, work since I don't think that the pliers would be able to provide enough friction without anything.

Also, my drain plug, is on the left side like the sticky. I am an idiot and thought the picture was of the right side.
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  #4  
Old 29th May 2013
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As a last resort, you can hammer a large screwdriver through the oil filter and unscrew it using the screwdriver as a sort of T-handle. You do need a pan under the filter to catch the oil that will run out. I would drain the oil out cold if the bike hasn't been started in 10 years, and I'd use 20w50 (or maybe even 10w40) the first time to give the oil a good chance at going everywhere it needs to. Fill the new filter with fresh oil before you screw it back on - the oil will begin to circulate faster that way. I'd change the oil again after you get the bike running and ride it 100 miles or so, using 20w50 or straight 50 or 60wt for the summer if you live in a hot climate.
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  #5  
Old 29th May 2013
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If it hasn't been run for 10 years, I would definitely drain the fluids and put in new oil before starting the motor. I wouldn't trust the lubricating properties of 10-year-old oil. If the bike has been stored for those 10 years outdoors or in a shed where temperature hasn't been controlled, there may very well be some condensation/water inside the engine until you drain and refill.

And I'd probably run it only long enough that first time to get it good and warm, then I'd drain and change the fluids and filter again. Another oil change and filter change will be a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild if something seizes up.

Regarding the filter, it doesn't matter how you get it loose. You won't be re-using it, so you can do whatever you want to get it off. I've taken a hammer and driven a screwdriver through the side of car and truck filters, and used the screwdriver handle to turn the filter to break it loose. All you have to do is get it loose a little bit, then it will spin right off.

EDIT: Crap, 83XLX already posted everything I just said.
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  #6  
Old 29th May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83XLX View Post
Fill the new filter with fresh oil before you screw it back on - the oil will begin to circulate faster that way.
No way to do this on an '82, as the filter mounts sideways from the left side.

All the oil would spill out and make a hell of a mess when you tried to install it.
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  #7  
Old 29th May 2013
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another thing i'd do on a 10 year dormant engine is pull the plugs and pour just a little oil on top of the pistons/rings and let it sit for a while before firing up; maybe even crank the engine with no plugs to spread it around some. i had to pierce my filter with a large screw driver on my first oil change too, but in trying to twist it off i mangled the filter so bad i didn't think it was going to come off that way; i mean that bitch was ON THERE! i'd recommend using some kind of filter wrench first before trying the screwdriver trick.
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  #8  
Old 29th May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowstone Kelly View Post
No way to do this on an '82, as the filter mounts sideways from the left side.

All the oil would spill out and make a hell of a mess when you tried to install it.
I do it every time I change the oil on my '83, which has the same setup. The bike is leaning slightly on the kickstand, which helps, and if you're fast enough, there's only a tiny dribble before the filter goes on.

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  #9  
Old 29th May 2013
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Greasemonkey
 
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Thanks a lot everyone. I already changed out the oil with 20-50, replaced the spark plugs and threw in a bit of marvel oil too. I plan on replacing the tranny fluid with the same 20-50 oil as soon as I get the primary tool.

One more question, I noticed that practically everyone's Ironhead cylinders on here, are rust free. Do you all only ride during riding season or paint the cylinders so they don't get rusted? My cylinders are a bit rusted and I plan on riding all throughout the year.
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  #10  
Old 29th May 2013
klyth klyth is offline
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My bike is rusty as hell.
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