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  #1  
Old 15th June 2013
slo slo is offline
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Default Swingarm bearings

Last week i did my swingarm bearings. First time i did a sporty so maybe not the best way. Someone asked me to show what i did, if anyone else can fill in the gaps would probably help somebody else doing this job. i apologize for the crappy pics, best i could do.

There are a few small parts in there. Parts catalog doesn't show everything, service manual has drawing but no part #s.

So the belt was rubbing the tire. Grabbing the back wheel, the swingarm was moving 1/2" side to side. Guy before me put new bearings in but didn't torque the bolt. I didn't bother to check til the bike was wandering at speed. Pulled it apart, found a couple issues. First the left side bushing was backwards so wouldn't snug up.

Here is the new bushing, you can see the beveled edge facing out per fsm. Snug fit in the inner sleeve, which is a press fit into the swingarm. Grease both to reassemble, the bushing slides in while tightening, torques the bearings. Also note the dust cap pressed in, try to tap these in over the new bearings, helps hold it together during assembly. I got new dust caps as the old ones fell out and could be a pain when trying to line everything back into the frame.
Cost for these parts around $30 for the bushing/sleeve, new dust caps about 20. Good thick metal, nice tight fit, wouldn't skimp on aftermarket stuff here if you can even find it.
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  #2  
Old 15th June 2013
slo slo is offline
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Also it had aftermarket bearings, was missing the spacer in between. Here is the factory spacer, looks like a split ring, there is a gap around 10 o'clock.

Spacer is not shown in the parts catalog so no part#. I bought the bearing kit from Harley has all the right side parts, bearings & races. 85 bucks not cheap but i won't have to mess with it again. Pivot bolt is nla, mine was in good shape after ~50k on chassis so probably not a big wear item.

I couldn't read the bearing#, maybe someone else can, here is a pic, can probably buy the bearings at a shop, they say Timken, as long as you still have the factory spacer can probably save bucks compared to dealer.

In in this case i prefer the harley parts, the aftermarket kit had bearings from china. Just my preference. Might as well do it right if you're going through the hassle.
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  #3  
Old 15th June 2013
slo slo is offline
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Here it is torqued to 50 ft-lbs, you can see how much the dust cap sucks in, at least on mine.


Left side torqued down.

The allen bolt will go in/out without pulling the swingarm so easy to do. Should clean the threads and reassemble with blue loctite. Will retorque a couple times after riding.
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Old 15th June 2013
slo slo is offline
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Last pic i have of this job.

To get swingarm out had to pull rear axle, wheel, caliper, lower shock bolts, belt guard. Didn't need to remove exhaust or pulleys. My belt is shorter than stock so was a rubik's cube to put back together. Would not want to do this job on the ground, the swingarm bolt is a hassle to line up without the dust covers popping off.
3 most important tools imo are a lift, factory service manual, and a parts catalog so i don't waste time at the counter, mine or the part guy's. This isn't a job you want to do more than once and shouldn't have to in most cases.
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  #5  
Old 15th June 2013
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BobWLR BobWLR is offline
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Good write up!
Went through this when converting to a trike. Took 2 people to line up the pivot bolt and stab the allen bolt. Glad you caught it before tragedy!
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  #6  
Old 16th June 2013
slo slo is offline
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Thanks... i'm lazy should have checked the bolt before riding a new project. Rode it for a year like that, found the loose bolt early on and loctit-ed it back, this year it really started moving around so had to service.

As you say a tricky job to line up the swingarm with one hand while pushing the bolt through the caps, split ring, etc. Only reason i got the photo above showing bearings & spacer is it came apart the second time during assembly. Forgot something the first time had to do it twice.

Really helps having a lift, saves a lot of pain, do a better job.

Didn't show above... There is 1 other spacer/split ring on the right side i didn't change, fits in between the bearing races, from the factory. My races were good and the ring was installed so didn't replace. Did try tapping them, didn't budge, tight press fit would need to weld them to drop out from the heat, freeze the new ones to drive in, etc.
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