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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #1  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
kcb kcb is offline
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Default crack in primary chain tensioner boss

Searched but couldn't find this issue before. Cracked on both sides of the upper tensioner boss. Have it welded or just use Loctite? Something else?

As always, thanks in advance for any insight.

Ken


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aluminum and cracks usually do not bode well like cast iron. the crack needs to be stress relieved and welded. lock-tite is thread sealant, not a bondo. i would go for a filet weld where the entire hole is filled in and then drill and re-tap the hole for a steel insert for the correct size. steel threads will hold up better in the long run.

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If the threads have not pulled out if the bolt hole I would run it. Be sure to use as long of a bolt as possible as long as it does not bottom out.

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a chance one must consider
the thread will have little clamp force and the more you stress the hole, the looser it will become. if, just if, the bolt were to come out and lodge between the chain and sprockets, all hell can break loose.
also consider, if the fastener becomes loose, the the load is shifted to the other.
the absolute way to try and continue on would be the drill the head and install safety wire so it can only travel so far. remember though, the primary chain does flop around with load changes.

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My advice was based on an assembled running motor.

looking more closely at the picture I see the motor is disassembled.

Fix it now while it is apart.
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Thanks for the advise, figured welding was the best option. I am rebuilding the bike so no better time. I'll finish disassembly and clean everything up, go over it with a magnifing glass and see if there are any other spots.

Now to find someone who I can trust to actually weld cast aluminum
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Try at the airport or a good tool & die shop.
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Read this thread and out and see what you think.The reason I'm suggesting this is low heat.http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...60&postcount=2
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My guy runs the TIG torch around and around at low heat to sneak up on it. This will draw out trapped oil, keep cleaning and slowly increase the juice. Working on the edges of the weld slowly heating and cleaning til the edges start to melt. At this point the part is prewarmed and the oil and other crap has been cooked out of the crack. Then you can lay into it and start welding, stop if it starts to boil or get goobered and clean more.

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One thing is to cut out the cracks,beved them ,clean and prepp,each alumiunm alloy-has a number assign ti it,is differ. Calling for a partuclar rod,either flux or gas welding shield.make certain absoutly no petroleum resides are present. maybe this will help.I,d fill in all beveled crack and the bolt hoe too.
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