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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #1  
Old 22nd April 2008
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Default Clutch replacement '70 XLH

My clutch is slipping a bit/ creeping forward in gear and was thinking of replacing with the Barnett Kevlar extra plate kit. anyone here with a pre-'70 Sporty have any feedback on clutch replacement options? I also recently switched to 50 wt oil...
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Old 23rd April 2008
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sheesh, anybody?
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Old 23rd April 2008
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Is your clutch a wet setup like my '78? If so, I fitted the Barnett Kevlar plates recently and am very happy with them. I'm running HD Formula+ primary/tranny lube and other than a bit of grabbiness in the clutch when it's first used and cold, I'm pleased with the new clutch. I also installed new steel plates and they completely eliminated the 'finding neutral' problem I was having. Now, neutral is dead easy to find, hot or cold and there is no dragging of the clutch at stoplights.

Eric
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Old 23rd April 2008
Bill Jones Bill Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky23 View Post
My clutch is slipping a bit/ creeping forward in gear and was thinking of replacing with the Barnett Kevlar extra plate kit. anyone here with a pre-'70 Sporty have any feedback on clutch replacement options? I also recently switched to 50 wt oil...
I put the Barnett Clutch Kit in my 69 about two years ago. So far I have been very happy with it. It hooks very well, but it has very stiff springs.
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Old 23rd April 2008
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The Kevlar wet or dry is the way to go. Plus get rid of the 50wt oil and use the Formular+.
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Old 23rd April 2008
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Do a 75/25 mix of Oil and Lucas Oil additive in the primary/transmission. The Lucas makes it easier to find neutral.

As for the clutch plates, Barnett Kevlars are a good choice and can be run wet or dry. But if your clutch is slipping or creeping in gear it could just need cleaning/adjusting.
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Old 23rd April 2008
BuckIRyder BuckIRyder is offline
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Barnett makes a wet or dry kit for early dry clutch Sporties. Although I've not used one, it makes sense to use this clutch as oil in leakage has always been the problem with the '57-'70 clutches. I think straight 50 wt. is too heavy for a trans. I would try 20/50 multi wt. I really like 20/50 synthetics.
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Old 23rd April 2008
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Cool. thanks for the replies.
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Old 23rd April 2008
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I run GTX 20/50 in my bike. In the summer I run straight 50wt. Valvoline. I have a 1970 and the clutch has always been a problem... it starts out dry for a couple of months after new plates are put in and then gets "wet"... no matter what I do, I think the seal on the basket doesn't work real well.. it sucks getting on it when I enter the freeway and there it goes and I back off on the throttle until it catches.. maybe this is a built in safety feature from blowing the tranny all to hell.. I have never had any problems with GTX oil in my primary. The oil thing will drive you crazy.. I have been running GTX and Valvoline since 1974, it's hard to change when I have found something that works.

Back in the early 1970s Ford ATF was being experimented with ... but the conclusion over time was that engines that shared the transmission with the primary needed more load carrying qualities than ATF could provide... some people began "blending" ... Bob Ellison of Triumph's West Coast operations recommended a good quality multi-viscosity oil, suggesting 20w/50s fully capable of the job. The ATF's qualities included not carrying metal into the transmission like heavier oils did.. plus keeping the plates from sticking together.. changing the oil as per the maintenance schedule will prevent this..

as jagdprcp said;

Quote:
As for the clutch plates, Barnett Kevlars are a good choice and can be run wet or dry. But if your clutch is slipping or creeping in gear it could just need cleaning/adjusting.
I agree with the creeping, adjust the cable and worm gear, clean the plates with lacquer thinner and rough them up a "little" and throw them back on... for a couple of months...

My only question on a wet/dry Barnett's is this.. they advise that you run them dry in a dry clutch system... so would it be advantageous to just start out wet and run them without the clutch cover ??... and forget ever running a dry clutch again? Do I use the cover as a Frisbee?

Jim
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Old 23rd April 2008
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I'd like to know more about the Barnett clutch in a pre-70 myself. Wet or dry? does that mean they will work regardless of the wet/dry condition? or does it have to be one or the other?
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