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23rd April 2008
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Biker
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 70 Sportster/Buell Model: '76 XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1976
Reputation: 10

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White smoke
OK, so i got a problem with the front cilinder, which is producing white/grey/also black smoke(exhaust). Why?
Push rods? Ignition? Bad seal?
Thank You!
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23rd April 2008
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Rider Of The Iron Steed
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: London, ON Canada
Posts: 23,720 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1978
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I would do these checks, in this order:
1. spark plug gap & clean; check quality of spark
2. intake and exhaust leaks checks
3. pilot screw setting
4. pushrod adjustment
5.
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23rd April 2008
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Senior Bike Builder
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,942 Sportster/Buell Model: KHK Sportster/Buell Year: 1954 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLC Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1958 Other Motorcycle Model: XLRTT Other Motorcycle Year: 1966
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!!!!!!!!!
5) check your valves guides!!!!!
Patrick
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Flat Head Forever...
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23rd April 2008
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Vegas, The Desert Coast
Posts: 2,813 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Could it be bad fuel? White is usually water which on an air cooled engine is usually in the gas. Black is usually fuel which means you are too rich.
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Lava Red 1200 Custom V&H Sideshots/ Big Sucker Naked / Mini Apes / Motogadget Mini Speedo / Daytona Twintec TC88A Ignition / Progressive 12" 412's & Forks
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24th April 2008
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Biker
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 40 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH 900cc Sportster/Buell Year: 1971
Reputation: 10

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I'm betting on valve guides. Are you positive it's white smoke and not blue? (white-ish with a blue haze)
Black is usually too much fuel. How does it run characteristically? Does it idle ok? Does it spit and sputter? etc..
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26th April 2008
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Biker
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 70 Sportster/Buell Model: '76 XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1976
Reputation: 10

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Hello!
Sparks are new, properly adjusted, today i'm gonna check the push rods. Question: to check valves guides - heads must must be dismantled?
Besides that, it starts very well - the ignition seems to be correctly adjusted, the engine has power but - it spits sometimes (from the seller it was said that it can be because of the keihin sceamin'eagle carb). My opinion is, that all settings with the carb and ignition are correct, since it smokes just from one cilinder, not both.
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26th April 2008
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Biker
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 70 Sportster/Buell Model: '76 XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1976
Reputation: 10

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OK,
push rods were also correctly adjusted.
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28th April 2008
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Land Speed Record
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 735 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1976 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1979
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Have you done a compression test on it yet? It could be bad rings. If your compression is low in one or both cylinders, run a leakdown test on it to find out where it is losing compresssion.
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Skeeeter
'76 XLH - 4 5/8" Stroker, Andrews V-9 cams, S&S Super 'E' and Barnett Billet Scorpion Clutch plus some cosmetic stuff
'79 XLH - Mostly stock except for cosmetics (for now!)
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5th May 2008
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Biker
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 70 Sportster/Buell Model: '76 XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1976
Reputation: 10

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Jep. My worst nightmare-thoughts are also piston rings. What compression ratio would be 'enough'? I had one test made and it was 9.5 on the rear and 10.5 in the front (which is funny, as the front is smoking).
Another question, to exchange piston rings, do i have to dismantle the engine from the bike off or can it be done within the frame??
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5th May 2008
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 7,861 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH 1000 Sportster/Buell Year: 1977 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 75 motor in Norton frame. Other Motorcycle Model: 42WLA 45, Harton, Narley Other Motorcycle Year: 1942
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You can do a top end overhaul - heads and cylinders and pistons - in the frame. The rear cylinder head has to be slid out with the rocker box intact, and can be a biatch to get a torque wrench into some rear head studs so you may have to do it by feel.
But try riding it for a little bit around the block first if you just got the bike, providing it is not making any scary death-knock type noises. It might blow the cobwebs out. If your compression check at 9 and 10 to 1 was correct, top end should be ok. IIRC, it should read somewheres around 140 pounds on a compression test. If it drops below 120 it is worn, below 100 is really worn.
It is worth checking that the previous owner has a good thick oil in the bike too, 50wt or more. If he just put thin car oil in it, that can make smoke too.
__________________
In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is.
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