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24th March 2006
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Vegas, The Desert Coast
Posts: 2,813 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Taxes Paid...Lessons Learned
First of all I would like to thank everyone in this forum for the great info that got me through this project. The only drawback was the amount of searching required to find all the info. I wanted to try and consolidate as many of the tips as I could into one post to make it easier for anyone else who is doing Stage I for the first time. I just want to make it clear that 99% of this I found here from other people.
I bought my '04 XL1200C in Sept. of '05 and after my first weekend realized that I had to upgrade the exhaust to the SE II slip ons. I planned to get the SE A/C and have the local dealer rejet but I didn't want to pay them to do it. Eventually I saw the hyperchargers and thought I needed one but I lost that urge after a couple weeks. Then I saw the setup on honus402's bike and decided that was what I had to have.
I bought the Arlen Ness Big Sucker ($90 on ebay), the A/C cover for bt's from the skull collection ($39 from h-d), a chrome carb cover ($16 at h-d), Sorgy's jet kit (ebay $11) and some stainless steel M4 hex socket cap screws, flat and split washers as well as a couple thinner (.025") M4 brass washers to shim the needle.
Here's the lessons part:
1. Use a blanket or towel to protect the bike, catch loose parts and soak up extra fluids.
2. Once the air cleaner is removed the carb will come loose from the engine if you grab it on top and bottom and rock it up and down. It is held on to the intake manifold by a rubber gasket. When it comes off make sure to keep this gasket on the intake and not the carb. This will make it easier to put the carb back on later.
3. Replace the stock phillips head screws with hex socket head. It is too easy to damage the phillips head and some nice stainless will look better. The Sorgy's kit comes with 4 for the bottom and I bought 4 more for the top.
4. Replace the stock plastic cover with a chrome cover. This isn't really necessary but it looks great. The screws that come in the Sorgy's kit are a little too short for the right rear because it has to go through the throttle/idle cable bracket before the cover. All of the screws are M4 but I don't remember the lengths.
5. Remove the screw holding the throttle/idle cable bracket to the side of the carb. Once you have the cap off it will make it a lot easier to get the diaphragm seated correctly if the arm of the bracket is out of the way of the cover.
6. Very important!!! Make sure you are extremely careful with the rubber diaphragm in the top of the carb. If you are replacing the needle or just putting washers under it you have to first remove the slide assembly which includes the diaphragm. Don't pull on the rubber part, push the slide up from inside the air intake until you can grab it from the top. When you replace it make sure you don't pinch the rubber under the cap. If the cable bracket is out of the way you shouldn't have any problems. It costs about $43 to replace (don't ask how I know that) and cuts easily so take your time and wiggle the cap a bit to make sure you don't pinch it.
7. If you are using a Ness Big Sucker, wipe a little petroleum jelly on the four o-rings to help keep them in place. They fall off easily and get lost just as easily (again, don't ask). If you do lose one, go to an automotive parts dealer and get a bag. Some people have mentioned using a thicker ring but the stock ones are 1/16" wide, 5/8" inside diameter and 3/4" outer. The directions are also very vague about the o-rings placement. Two go on the back side around both of the large banjo bolt holes and two go on the front side.
8. The Ness directions talk about installing restrictor bushings. The newer kits have different banjo bolts so if your kit didn't come with them you don't need to install them. The hole is the right size already. The directions also talk about re-routing the breather hose. On my 04 the hose was already where they tell you to run it.
9. Replace the carb the same way it came off. Make sure you have the rubber gasket seated properly on the intake, press the back of the carb into the gasket and rock the carb up and down pushing into the bike. When you fit the air cleaner plate you can tell if you are close with the carb or if you need to push more.
10. Second most important tip, make sure you have and are using the proper tools.
11. Most important tip IMO, try to learn something. If you are doing the job yourself you might as well look around and see what is going on in there.
I hope this helps the other new wrenchers out there. A lot of other threads have more details and better directions so keep searching and good luck. In the end it is worth it to know that you did the work yourself even if it costs you an extra $43 cause you screwed up. I am not a mechanic and don't consider myself an expert so if anyone has any corrections or additions please feel free to add. I think that's the whole idea behind a forum anyway.
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24th March 2006
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Senior Chief Master Mechanic 2nd Class
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,593
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Great tips, with all the new people coming here daily I'm sure they'll be put to good use. I did mine myself too, and your right, it is a great feeling when you fire it up and everything is running smooth, and you know you did it yourself! 
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24th March 2006
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Vegas, The Desert Coast
Posts: 2,813 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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I forgot another one. When you reattach the throttle/idle bracket, make sure the cable pulley is clear of the stop screw. If you can't twist your throttle when you are done it probably got hung up here.
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24th March 2006
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Land Speed Record
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 735 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200 XL Custom Anniv Sportster/Buell Year: 2003
Reputation: 10

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Very nice post.
__________________
How can you pretend to comprehend what you don't understand?
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11th April 2006
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Greasemonkey
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 104 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200L Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
Reputation: 10

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As someone who never did this before, how long did it take you to actually do the work without the little "extra" steps? Just curious.
How is the setup working? Sorgys' jet kit is significantly cheaper than the MoCo's. I have a brand new 1200L that I need to "pay the taxes" on. I'm planning on getting the SE A/C and the SE Pro II slip-ons.
The weather is starting to warm up here on the east coast and it's time to ride.
__________________
Moose
2006 XL1200L - SE A/C, SE II slip-ons, Jets 45/185
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11th April 2006
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Vegas, The Desert Coast
Posts: 2,813 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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It was a three day process including a trip to the local dealer to get a new slide assembly after I tore the diaphragm and a day driving around trying to get stainless hex socket screws. In wrench time it was probably less than two hours. I would strongly suggest against the SE A/C though and from the sounds of it around here the Cycle Shack slip ons are just as good as the SE's for a lot less if you are looking to save a few bucks although I have the SE's and have no complaints.
I have the Arlen Ness Big Sucker A/C and love it. I left it open with just a HD big twin insert over it and you can hear it suck air when you crack the throttle.
If you have any questions feel free to ask although I'm not a pro by any means, I've been there before and won't use big words when I answer.
__________________
Lava Red 1200 Custom V&H Sideshots/ Big Sucker Naked / Mini Apes / Motogadget Mini Speedo / Daytona Twintec TC88A Ignition / Progressive 12" 412's & Forks
http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/medium/Picture123.jpg
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11th April 2006
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Assistant Administrator
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South Shore, Massachusetts
Posts: 9,983 Sportster/Buell Model: 1212 conversion/497 cams Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Great post! You can add me to the torn diaphragm club...but, I was able
to complete the Stage 1 and my Sporty runs awesome.
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11th April 2006
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Vegas, The Desert Coast
Posts: 2,813 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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yeah I feel bad for my buddy. His came Stage 1 from the dealer and he has been having problems with running rich and dumping gas since he got it. We are currently blaming the SE A/C and he is changing to a Big Sucker this week. Mine runs great. I'm not positive I have the idle mixture perfected yet but it isn't missing and definately has more power and any where in the throttle.
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11th April 2006
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Greasemonkey
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 104 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200L Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
Reputation: 10

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i thought sorgy's kit comes with the stainless screws?
do you need to get a new cover with the big sucker? i like the original look, but won't the oem cover have a smaller opening for the air flow?
sorry for all the questions, i'm just getting into all this.
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11th April 2006
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Vegas, The Desert Coast
Posts: 2,813 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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I seem to remember other forum members talking about modifying a OEM or "ham can" cover to fit other A/C set ups so I think it is possible but it won't fit as is and is definately too restricting. The SE version is open all the way around but would still need some type of bracket to fit on the Big Sucker. The BS has a single tapped hole in the center just like a big twin so any stock big twin cover will fit over it without mod.
I would search the site for posts about ham cam mods if you want to go that route. My gallery has a pic of my A/C although the pic was to show my sissy bar so it doesn't show the cover very well.
Don't worry about the questions, that's what this place is all about.
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