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5th May 2006
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Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sheboygan, WI
Posts: 1,873 Sportster/Buell Model: FXR Sportster/Buell Year: 1994
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I drilled it out to 1/8" Am I boned?
Over the Easter break I installed a S&S air cleaner with a K&N filter, as well as put on a higher flowing exhaust. While I was in the carb I drilled out the slide bypass hole to 1/8" because that's that nightrider.com suggested. Before I did this I also summoned the genius on XLForum.net. According to Turboda, on 11/27/04, "This hole needs to be drilled out just slightly to 1/8". Then after that, other forum members state that 1/8" is too big, and 7/64" is a better diameter.
I could fill it up with JB Weld and redrill, but when I took it out for a little rip it ran fine and didn't flutter or bog or anything. Of course, it was in the 50's, so the air was more dense, which may have masked a rich condition.
So, did I fug it up?
Edit: 96 883 with 12K mi. Pretty much all stock
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5th May 2006
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Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Disinformation Superhighway Exit 48
Posts: 3,316 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883H/1200H Sportster/Buell Year: '96 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH 1000 Sportster/Buell Year #2: '72
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Matt, the slide hole is really only about throttle response and how fast your slide opens. If it rides fine for your style then don't sweat it. Plugging and redrilling just adds something that can come loose and end up in a cylinder.
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Ol' Big Daddy of the Dirty Ducks MC
I'll see your Twin Cams and raise you 2 more
Unlike the Internet, Al Gore DID INVENT Global Warming
Political Correctness never killed any terrorists.
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5th May 2006
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 18,156
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I've drilled it out on two bikes too, I don't think it's a problem.
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5th May 2006
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Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Valley St.
Posts: 2,281 Sportster/Buell Model: xl883 Tax's paid Sportster/Buell Year: 2005
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i agree i didnt drill mine but i say if it runs great go with it
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:doh
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5th May 2006
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Luvs me an artsy chick...
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chautauqua County, NY
Posts: 11,675 Sportster/Buell Model: 883>1200 XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 97
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BONED?
Only if you don't like the throttle response...
Only issue is that you can't get smaller...
I always tell people to stay out of the top of your carb because most folks simply DON'T NEED TO mess with it....
If the throttle response is too quick for you now (and you have a stock spring), all you can do is change the whole diaphragm assembly....not that expensive...if you have the Dynojet spring, go back to stock....
When drilling, always remember less is better.. 
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~Chuck
"entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem"
Occam's Razor...
in English: "entities must not be multiplied beyond necessity."
My definition: "The simplest answers are the most likely"
~NRHS machined 1200 conversion, shittin and gettin...
Chuck's favorite tuning posts
Charging system troubleshooting
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8th May 2006
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: the tropical north of Australia
Posts: 6,540 Sportster/Buell Model: 11 second 1200S Sportster/Buell Year: '98 Other Motorcycle Model: about a dozen others.....
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Watch hard acceleration.....
Under hard accell it may become too lean with the slide drilled too big...
Each bike and rider are different ....
and while I don't recomend drilling it that large in most cases
you can get away with it sometimes....
I've had more troubles with slides that are drilled too big than slides that havn't been drilled enough ..... it's very common on Jap multis to drill too big and it ends up with a huge flat spot in the acceleration ... I have lost count of how many I have had to "repair" by closing the hole up and redrilling...
It's often exacerbated by an air cleaner venturi that smooths the flow out and directs more unturbulant air in
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Havin a few beers in the shed with my mates.
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