Now I know everyone and everything says you do not have to do anything besides remove the circlip and the lever pivot pin, and watch out for that brake lamp switch but...
Seriously there was no possible configuration in which the Levers pointy end and the bulbus bottom that pushes the Brake Master cylinder piston was going to come out of there. There is not enough gap between the switch housing and the levers mounting bracket part of the Master cylinder to clear and extract that part of the lever. It comes up a good quarter inch of fitting through. No matter how you go about it.
And all the while your anal sphincster is tight as a mofo worrying about that dam brake switch.
I finaly just took the Brake master cylinders bar clamp lose that holds the brake reservour to the handle bars and it then slides straight out easy as pie.
Plus then you can carefully and straight in, reinstall it without much worry about hitting the brake switch as you can guide it all in there better. I suspect you could do it with no shim at all, even though I used one anyway.
I don't know if this is something specific to rubbers or not. Or Lows models or 05's or something... Or what it is. But the instructions with the Levers don't go into detail but the Clymer shows in its install of the Brake master cylinder, the lever being in place before sliding the Master cylinder into place. It almost implys that preinstalling the lever before mounting the master cylinder is part of the whole process. Even goes into the shiming of the lever and to be carefull of the brake switch. All that in the Master cylinder install section and instructions.
So... its done...but it was the only way I could see to do it. And all is well and I was also afforded the luxury of examining the switch close to make sure I had not accidentaly damaged it. And inspect it.
Anyone else done it this way?
By the way I have a set of Black levers in there now. Look nice. Not certain I am going to stay with them. Will decide when the chrome ones get here. But I like em.
Esso-B's Scooter Club
When I put my black levers on I ran into to the same thing. I just loosened up my switch housing and the old came right out and new one went in very easy. You do need to be careful with the micro switch for the light but it was really easy. I went with the black because everyone has chrome and these look better against the black bike. I always have to be different.
It's not a Skirtster, it's a Sportster!
Just make sure you have a 27 Torx to undo those two screws holding the Brake master cylinder to the handle bars and you will be golden.
And I did make a wedge out of carboard to keep the lever centered to insert it and this does help although I suspect you could easily just hold it in postion.
Its actualy quite easy once you abandon the idea its just going to come out with just the pivot pin and its circlip off. And go for the Master cylinder clamp removal. I spent an hour trying to figure out how and why it would not come through. And once I gave that line of thought up and unclamped the master cylinder it was like five minutes.
The instructions with the levers is sparse. So if you do not know how to do the clutch side either refer to the manual or I can explain that part...
Clutch Cable removal:
You remove the rubber cover (boot) off the clutch adjustment turnbuckle thats located on the left side down pipe of the frame. Just slide it up and out of the way. And you losen the lock nut thats in between the two parts of the turnbuckle (9/16 inch wrench) and you bring the two parts of the adjustment turnbuckle closer together (2 - 1/2 inch wrenchs) by turning the bottom one counter clockwise while holding the top part still so as to losen the tension on the cable. Bringing them closer together losens the tension of the outer of the cable making the inners tension less so as to give you the slack you need to pull the lever and cables end eye out of the lever holding assembly. Then the cable will slide out of its top hat seat in the lever assembly and the cable inner will fit through the slot in that top hat assembly so as to be able to pull the lever straight back. This pin will only come out of the assembly if pulled straight back around the rear of the lever holding assembly. And go back in the same way. There is just enough slack to do this with the cable turnbuckles all the way together touching each other. Might have to tug it pretty well to clear it around the back. Then there is a white plastic pin holding the cable inners eye onto the lever. This pin is why you had to pull it straight back. Push this pin out and the cable will come off the lever.
Obviously reverse order to reassemble. And try and return clutch adjustment turnbuckle to same place apart. Test clutch and fine tune the adjustment turnbuckle and then lock it in place with the lock nut and recover with the rubber boot.
Don't forget to use new Circlips on both Pivot pins. They are 3/8" External Circlips. The levers you got should come with two. But if you lose or mess one up then they easy to buy at the hardware store. Verify the copper/brass bushings are in the new levers. They should be. They come that way but just look in the pivot pin hole and see for certain.