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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #1  
Old 20th August 2008
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Default Ironhead Wiring Diagram (Drawing Attached)

After looking for an eternity for an easy to read basic wiring diagram, i sat down last night and joined together the best of what i have found. I've based it around my 77 IH, but with a few easy mods it could be adapted to suit whatever. If your bike doesn't have indicators . .easy, delete that section. If you think something is wrong with it let me know and i can adjust if we agree and re-post, then hopefully when i get time i'll draw up a better version on my autocad and include factory wire colours. I've put in extra fuses and relays where i think they are required to protect the system, i've drawn them up in sections (eg. start, charge, lighting etc) just to make it easier to see what is going on and avoid the criss cross of wires. If you want a higher resolution version that will print out at A3, PM me your email address and i'll forward across

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Old 21st August 2008
Snowback Snowback is offline
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Excellent diagram! Is there a diode between the charge light and the A side of the generator? Or how does light actually go out when the voltage goes up?
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Old 21st August 2008
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Good point, i'll look into it and incorporate it into the autocad drawing
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Old 21st August 2008
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I don't see anything really wrong with it. Don't run it through autocad. That will make it look to much like one out of a book. I say keep it just the way it is, but upload it in it's original size.

It's easier to follow the way it is, I think.
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Old 21st August 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowback View Post
Excellent diagram! Is there a diode between the charge light and the A side of the generator? Or how does light actually go out when the voltage goes up?
I know nothing about wiring (mine caught fire) but Fe Head has posted on here about this diode several times, - only in relation to the solid state electronic regulators, I think, but am not clear on that. I did not see a diode on my 77 with mech regulator when I cleaned up the wiring. But that does not mean it was not there.

Here is what Fe Head posted on diodes. Maybe next time he comes along he can verify the situation with a mech regulator.

QUOTE: When you are referring to the " Red Light" stays on do you mean the original GEN light in the eye brow?

When using the electronic regulators this light operates in series with a diode that has its silver band side's lead going towards the " A " terminal on the generator. It is usually placed up inside the head light bucket and soldered and/shrink wrapped to hold it. Sometimes the silver banded end is stuck into the connector plug having the armeture lead feeding in from the opposite side.

If after confirming the generator is charging as per the STICKY check to see if this diode has been includied in the circuit.

Here below is a copy of what I wrote for another thread that will also let you do a quick check of the generator

Here below is what I wrote some time ago on another thread.

The generator light works in series with a diode located in the headlight housing. The diode only allows current to flow in one direction. When the ignition key is on and the engine is not running or the engine is running too slow so as the generator cannot add energy to the battery the higher voltage from the battery flows across the generator light through the diode to ground thereby making the generator light glow. When the generator's output voltage exceeds the residual battery voltage the diode no longer acts as the generator light's ground and the light does not glow. This transition for the light to go out usually happens around 800 to 1000 RPM’s - usually.

Typically with everything disconnected from the generator and the engine running at 2500 RPM's there should be about 2 -4 Volts across the "A" and "F" terminals. Then when at the same speed you ground the "F" terminal momentarily the meter will read 40+ volts if all is well. Similarly with a 1 ohm load in series with the "A" terminal and the meter set to the 30 Amps DC scale you will see at least 20 Amps when, again the "F" terminal is momentarily grounded.

If you would like see if the small black diode with the silver band is shorted internally and causing your GEN light to be on - try replacing it.

The diode is often found behind the front headlight. It may be potted in a silicon tube for protection or just stuck into the junction connector. Put the new one in oriented the same way.
Pick up an A 1N-4004 which is available at Radio Shack (very cheap) as it will work fine. The silver band must face toward the “A” terminal if you are not sure.

I hope this helps to explain the functioning of the generator light a little better for you if that is what you were initially concerned about.

ENDQUOTE.
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  #6  
Old 21st August 2008
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I was just talking to my auto lecky mate then and he says yes there is generally a diode in line on the armature wire of the generator, its usually only the diametre of the wire plus the insulation, once its soldered in place, heat shrink it completely and she's done. I see the IN4004 diode in my electronics book and it says it can handle up to 400V 1amp. I'll do some more reading, and if FEHead comes past i gather he will give us a heads up. Just saw a bloke in my office who is our electrical drafting guru . . .he's going to draw it up one lunchtime . . .so i'll leave this drawing on the table for a few weeks for us IH blokes to comment on then get it done up. In the meantime i'll work the factory colours into my base diagram
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Old 21st August 2008
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Just to let you guys know if you get the Haynes manual it has colored wiring diagrams for every sportster from 70-03.Very easy to read and the Haynes manual is a good book to acompany the HD factory manual.
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Old 21st August 2008
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I just don't like the criss crossing of wires and trying to figure out how a wire comes out the other side if a connector when its drawn in the factory diagrams. . .basic, easy, thats going to work. . .thats what my drawing is about
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Old 22nd August 2008
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I taking it agree russzx6, I spent 20 years as an electro-mechanical designer and it is an extreme cop-out to draw wires from more than one side of a connector. The rats nest found in the harley and haynes manual would not fly in virtually any other industry documentation. So thanx for doing the job (the way it should have been done by the people who made the money off it) and sharing with us.
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Old 22nd August 2008
Fe Head Fe Head is offline
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I just checked in and the schematic of "russzX6" is easy to follow and will need a small variation in the GEN light circuit for the mechanical regulator(s) and a separate one for the solid state version.

Thank you Hooper for the posting with respect to the diode which is correct for the solid state version.

For Solid State regulators they typically follow this pathway

1. - from a common source + 12 volts to GEN centre filament
2 - GEN light's casing or isolated sockect to non silver banded side of the diode
3. - banded side of diode to a (tan) lead terminating on the "A" terminal of the generator along with the solid state's lead (tan) to the same "A" terminal.


It has been a while, however, for the mechanical regulator version it should follow this pathway;

1. Common +12 volt to centre fillament of GEN light
2. GEN light casing or isolated socket to the GEN tab on the mechanical regulator

In this way the ground side is present when the generator is not charging and when it is the both sides of the GEN filament see the same voltage therefore no current will flow and the GEN light will go out. When the GEN light is dim and flickering it tells you the ripple voltage of the generator is trying to stay above the battery voltage but on the average at the RMS (root mean square) value it is not able to.

If the GEN light is connected between the "A" on the generator and a ground it will not come on when the Ignition key is ON but will stay ON while the generator is working and providing some voltage between 4 - 14 volts.

It may be a small point but as I recall on the ignition switch there is a two stage ON in later models (not sure about earlier ones). The first stage being the Kill/Run switch, Start Button live and the Horn, Turn Signals Head and Tail Lights are added in as a connection to the ACC is made on the second stage or fully ON.

It may be hard to show schematically as the second ON position joins in the ACC internally and is marked externally as "LIGHTS". This was IMO to make it easier to fire the coil with electric start and so we could limp home in the daytime (usually) when the generator/regulator failed outright.

I have a fully coloured wiring diagram that includes the variations on the charging system if attachments are permitted. It has been posted before but was deleted to allow for subsequent attachments

Cheers;

Last edited by Fe Head; 23rd August 2008 at 08:13.. Reason: Additional clarity
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