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20th August 2010
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Brass Nut
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Western Weald
Posts: 30,744 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200V Sportster/Buell Year: 2013 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XL883C … long gone Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2005 Other Motorcycle Model: FXDB … gone! Other Motorcycle Year: 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tara
thanks, on every manual, even in the Clymer, they say to remove pushrods and tappets
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They don't say that in the FSM; another example of the FSM being better than one of these third party manuals.
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Folkie
Super Moderator
'The green machine'
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20th August 2010
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Flat Track Champion
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 632 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200 xl Sportster/Buell Year: 1987
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what is FSM ? clymer has normally a great reputation, i have used it for years, it is quite good usually.
thanks
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1986 frame - 1997 1200 engine stage 1.5 - N2 cams- single fire Accel - Crane hi 4 - big sucker - 23 T sprocket 48 T - Ohlins #3#3 13 1/4 - showa 35 mm Progressive spring - all brake system by Performance Machine second motor 86 4 speed 883conver 10.5 1200 V8 cams 1200 heads - tuned CV cards by killer motorcycle product -
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20th August 2010
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Brass Nut
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Western Weald
Posts: 30,744 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200V Sportster/Buell Year: 2013 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XL883C … long gone Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2005 Other Motorcycle Model: FXDB … gone! Other Motorcycle Year: 2012
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Factory service manual. By far the best (as this example proves). 
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23rd August 2010
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Flat Track Champion
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 632 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200 xl Sportster/Buell Year: 1987
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thanks for the info
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1st March 2011
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
Posts: 1,912 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200c Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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Excellent write up!! I used this as a quick reference and did my N4 change out today. Now to put some miles on them!
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30th March 2011
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Biker
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 13 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883 conv 1200 Sportster/Buell Year: 2005
Reputation: 10

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Hello,
Turbota wrote one important sentence.
Once all cams are removed, DO NOT rotate the engine. This will make it much easier to install the new cams in there proper position.
Here I made a mistake. My cams was removed and I had move the bike in my garage. Of course, I forgot 5th gear and my engine rotated
Can you please advise me how I can install the cams properly now?
Thanks a lot for every advice
Mark
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30th March 2011
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JESTER MAFIA
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Indian Territory
Posts: 9,277 Sportster/Buell Model: NRHS 1250-R Sportster/Buell Year: 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fukeles
Hello,
Turbota wrote one important sentence.
Once all cams are removed, DO NOT rotate the engine. This will make it much easier to install the new cams in there proper position.
Here I made a mistake. My cams was removed and I had move the bike in my garage. Of course, I forgot 5th gear and my engine rotated
Can you please advise me how I can install the cams properly now?
Thanks a lot for every advice
Mark
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Just line up the timing mark on the pinion gear, to where it is pointed directly at the center of the #2 bushing.

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A Member of The Cell
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30th March 2011
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Perfidious Albion
Posts: 6,995 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1250S Sportster/Buell Year: 1998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fukeles
Hello,
Turbota wrote one important sentence.
Once all cams are removed, DO NOT rotate the engine. This will make it much easier to install the new cams in there proper position.
Here I made a mistake. My cams was removed and I had move the bike in my garage. Of course, I forgot 5th gear and my engine rotated
Can you please advise me how I can install the cams properly now?
Thanks a lot for every advice
Mark
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It doesn't make it much more difficult. Just rotate the engine until the mark on the pinion gear is pointing to the centre of the bush for the #2 cam (edit: as in Rico's photo above - he beat me to it!), then install the #2 cam to check the mark on it aligns with the mark on the pinion gear (remove the cam and rotate the engine slightly if necessary to align).
Now remove the #2 cam.
Fit the #1 and #3 cams and align the marks on them with the centre of the #2 cam bush. Hold them in place while you reinstall the #2 cam. Check that all marks on cams 1-3 and the pinion gear align. Slide the #2 cam out slightly if necessary to adjust the alignment of cams 1 and 3.
Fit cam #4, aligning the mark with the mark on cam #3.
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31st March 2011
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
Posts: 1,912 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200c Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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While mine did not rotate when installing, just 1/2 my cams came out with the cover. So I just rotated and aligned up no problem.
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31st March 2011
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Harley Engineer
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 319 Sportster/Buell Model: 883r convert to 1214 SOLD Sportster/Buell Year: 2006 Other Motorcycle Model: DL650AL2 VStrom Other Motorcycle Year: 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlutsey
Just line up the timing mark on the pinion gear, to where it is pointed directly at the center of the #2 bushing.

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My cams came out when I removed the cover and I did as Rico described above and everything lined up just right.
__________________
[B]SOLD on 4/3/12[/B] - '06 883R with NRHS 1214 conversion using Wiseco 9.5:1 pistons, w cams, TC88A ICM, RevTech FXDX AC, 45/180 jetting, IMS 2.5 turns, Bub/Rinehart 2 into 1, 1200s bars, Progressive front springs w/10wt BelRay, Superbrace, 1200s rear shocks, tach kit, Flyscreen, Jagg oil cooler
Now riding a 2012 Suzuki DL650AL2 "WeeStrom"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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