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12th November 2008
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Flat Track Racer
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 229 Sportster/Buell Model: 74 Ironhead Sportster/Buell Year: 1974 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 77 Iron Head Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1977 Other Motorcycle Model: 2000 Harley Ultra Classic Other Motorcycle Year: 2000
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Generator Question
Hey guys, Mark from omaha here. I have introduced myself but it has been a while so Hi again......Took my 74 iron out today for her maiden voyage! Every thing was cherries  . On my way home I noticed that my generator was not charging according to my voltage reg/monitors led lights. I bottomed out in my driveway "on my fresh paint" when I got home  , and it started charging again? What do you guys think should I tear off the generator and have it checked out? How does the generator work? Does it charge only when battery voltage is low or is it supposed to charge all the time? I hope my questions aren't stupid but I figured since you guys un knowingly got me trough this entire build that you would have some ansewers for me. Thanks in advance for the help. |
13th November 2008
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Rider Of The Iron Steed
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: London, ON Canada
Posts: 23,696 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1978
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The gen is simple inside. Remove it, dismantle, clean, inspect, put it back together, "install it, polarize it," probably good to go.
It gets filthy inside. And the brushes can get stuck. These problems are easy to fix yourself. If banging it like that fixed it then probably a brush was hung up. I use a spray can of electrical contacts cleaner [or brake & parts cleaner] and clean it out over a bucket.
Check out any info on the gen in the Charging System Checkout Sticky, and in your FM. You most likely do not need to remove the gen drive gear.
Last edited by IronMick; 13th November 2008 at 11:59..
Reason: inserted the "install it, polarize it".
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13th November 2008
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Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: I really don't know :)
Posts: 2,480 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1968 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLC Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2003 Other Motorcycle Model: FXSTD Other Motorcycle Year: 2003
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I would agree with Mick's assessment.
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Any date that is not on your tombstone is considered a lucky day.
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13th November 2008
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Flat Track Racer
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 229 Sportster/Buell Model: 74 Ironhead Sportster/Buell Year: 1974 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 77 Iron Head Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1977 Other Motorcycle Model: 2000 Harley Ultra Classic Other Motorcycle Year: 2000
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gen
Thanks guys. I seen the sticky on electrical check up, and am going to tear into her tommorow. I am anxious to see what it is all about inside. Thanks again guys.
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13th November 2008
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 2,638 Sportster/Buell Model: 1000cc Ironhead Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1977 Other Motorcycle Model: 96 KDX200 Dirt Bike
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you forgot "flash it" Mick!!  |
13th November 2008
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Rider Of The Iron Steed
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: London, ON Canada
Posts: 23,696 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russzx6
you forgot "flash it" Mick!! |
Thanx. For my punishment I'll go back and edit the post ... |
13th November 2008
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 2,638 Sportster/Buell Model: 1000cc Ironhead Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1977 Other Motorcycle Model: 96 KDX200 Dirt Bike
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Gotta keep an eye on your advise Mick  |
13th November 2008
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,103 Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead XLH Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1978 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Ironhead XLT Sportster Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1977 Other Motorcycle Model: Honda CBX 1000 Other Motorcycle Year: 1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russzx6
Gotta keep an eye on your advise Mick |
I'd be more concerned about keeping an eye on Hopper! Haven't heard any reports of raping and pillaging yet from his epic road trip.
Eric
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1978 Anniversary Edition XLH. Wiseco 10:1 forged pistons, Andrews R5 cams, dual plugged heads with Super Port Flow, single fire ignition, Mikuni Solex 36 PHH carb, Jagg oil cooler, '73 gauges, kickstart, Barnett kevlar clutch, Progressive front springs, Hagon Nitro shocks, all-Andrews tranny. 1977 XLT, Mikuni Solex 36 PHH carb, tapered dual exhausts, Andrews Y cams, Progressive front springs, Hagon Nitro shocks.
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13th November 2008
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Senior Chief Know It All 1st Class
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: cape girardeau MO
Posts: 1,156 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1973
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another suspect could be thr regulator if it's a mechanical type.
my bike started pouring acid out of my batt 1 day and it was HOTT
i smacked my regulator and everything was fine i guess it was stuck or something.
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1973 iron head sportster fully customized the stock frame
SOLD for 76 shovelhead and $5000
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13th November 2008
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Senior Chief Know It All
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 862 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year: 1970 Other Motorcycle Model: Triumphs Other Motorcycle Year: 1964
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Quote:
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i smacked my regulator and everything was fine i guess it was stuck or something.
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That about sums up my mechanical style on occasions..
The generator output is constant and the regulator lets the right amount of voltage pass and on the old mechanical regs the excess was diverted to ground. With the advent of modern electronics regs beginning in the early 1970s...this started to become the way to go, there were draw backs .. some owners were left stranded by regs burning out and no quick replacements, things have changed as quality improved. .. I always ran a mechanical reg on my Sportster , it never failed me, so why change. On Triumphs, I wouldn't think of using anything but an electronic reg... Typanium..
The one thing to remember about electronic regs is cooling.. the excess voltage on these units is "sent" away through heat.
The main difference from earlier regs and later ones is amperage.. they started out with 15-16 amp regs and it has grown to 36 amps today and 40 amps on the larger Harley's ... using a regulator that is of the "right size" is important because of the charging/lighting that needs to take place. One thing I do hate is having to run with my headlights on all the time ... the system wasn't designed to operate this way.. IMO ... the charging system on Ironheads is one of it's weakest links to a great machine (this applies to electric start models) Using the smaller battery and kick only has to some degrees less problems. .. .. I run an electronic reg and a Cycle Electric Generator... that is the best you can hope for with this system. I am running a halogen light also.. the old car headlight just wasn't enough light .. things are working good so far.
PS... get a battery tender... you won't be sorry. also keep everything in top working order,then there is less stress on the battery and less stress on the battery translates to less stress on the charging system.
Jim
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