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  #1  
Old 19th January 2009
NewAmerica NewAmerica is offline
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Default Chain Tensioner Wheels (LBV Eng., Custom Made, Etc...)

got 2 sporty rigid builds goin' on right now, i would like to use a secondary chain tensioner to gain some clearance on one of them thanks to the oil tank selection (sorry no pics right now)

here is one for a stock sportster frame made by lbv engineering


and here is a custom rigid mounted one, made by someone



in the pictures that i've seen of these things, i have noticed that they always seem to be located on the low side of the chain. for my project it would need to be the rigid style, and located on the top of the chain. Is that at all possible and what do you think the life expectancy of the wheel and bearing to be?

Also, since i would be making one similar to the second, I took a look at the materials that LBV Eng. used since i had a better close up. that wheel, a krypto impulse, is a roller skate wheel with an ABEC7 or higher bearing? really?

has anyone on the forum made a solid mounted chain tensioner like this? and can it be used on the top side of chain without being destroyed too fast?

thanks for your help in advance!
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  #2  
Old 19th January 2009
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Default

I have not seen one on the top side.
I wouldn't do it that way myself.
Think about it, that side of the chain is going to have all the pressure of the motor "pulling" the chain.
The bottom is getting pulled by the wheel not the motor.

I guess if you used some type of sprocket that could work, but then you are moving the chain, not just keeping tension like those you have pictured.

Maybe you should rethink the oil tank?
I have seen some oil tanks that have slots in them to clear the chain.
Maybe you can do that?

Good luck which ever way you decide..
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  #3  
Old 19th January 2009
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74_XLH_WINCHESTER_VA 74_XLH_WINCHESTER_VA is offline
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Default Half Pipe

Maybe take a piece of half pipe and weld it into the tank where the chain interferes to give the needed relief, that might even look pretty bad ass.

K.C.
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  #4  
Old 21st January 2009
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choady - that's exactly what i was thinking, but just needed someone else to tell me i guess this bike's got a lot of power and the tension on the top side of the chain would most definitely tear that poor little wheel apart

winchester - that's a good idea...i think i might run with that other than just making a square (or rectangular) notch!

time to move some bungs while i'm at it...


thanks guys!
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  #5  
Old 21st January 2009
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Default Another Idea

I had another idea too, but kept getting the "Server is too busy" message and haven't been able to get on. I don't know what kind of space you have, but another idea is to use a sprocket the same that is on the transmission mounted on a shaft that is mounted to the frame using pillow blocks.

Nash Motorcycles did something kind of similar to what I am talking about:



Pillow Block:


This would hold up to the load that the motor would put on the chain and the sprocket.

K.C.
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  #6  
Old 21st January 2009
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yeah that "server too busy" message kept me from replying to the responses all day yesterday...

i like that nash design alot, but i think it's a little too much for this customer build...now my ironhead build, that a different story

i'm gonna read up on that some more, thanks!
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  #7  
Old 21st January 2009
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I need to install one of these this spring as my chain hits the bottom of my oil bag ONLY when crusing. You see- I built a custom and knew everything would be super close. As for the chain- it's about 3/4" off the bottom of the bag (yes- I recessed the bag by laying a large, deep-well impact socket lengthwise where I needed my relief and basically beat the daylights out of the socket. The result= a uniform crecent that runs parallel to where the chain travels).

Turns out that still wasn't enough room

Everythings fine under load or decel, but when crusing the chain seems to 'jump' up-n-down just enough to BARELY (but knowingly) rub the bottom of the bag!!!!

I'm prolly going to pick up a 'heavy duty' ICE unit (see here --> Chain tensioner) due to the fact that a.) it's a cog, not skateboard wheel, and b.) is adjustable. Although (IMO) a chain tensioner looks 'out of place/like it doesn't belong'... it's a necessity in my case and the ICE unit just looks more like the part belongs.
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  #8  
Old 21st January 2009
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Default Dirt Bikes

Dirt Bikes use an upper and lower chain roller....the lower does put some tension on the chain, but the upper is positioned more for protection, just below whatever the chain is hitting. Even if you have a tight situation, as long as the roller is above the chain when it is pulled tight you should be ok. When the chain is only hitting the roller and not running over it with tension a light weight roller will do.
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  #9  
Old 22nd January 2009
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Not exactly the topic of your post, but after reading it, I think the LBV tensioner is exactly what my bike needs. I installed longer shocks (see pic of bike below), which has brought chain tensioning problems. The swingarm now angles down from horizontal, which makes the chain more loose because of the geometry of the swingarm pivot vs. the engine sprocket. If the chain is adjusted normally, it's too tight when the suspension allows the swingarm to be horizontal. If the chain's adjusted correctly when the swingarm's horizontal, then it's too loose during normal riding, contacting the muffler mount on bottom and the chain guard mount on top. I could put a nylon slider on the chain guard mount and grind clearance on the muffler mount, but the chain would still be under tight/loose conditions part of the time. I think this tensioner will be a very nice fix, and I found them for sale on eBay for $70. I'll post a close up pic of it when I install it.

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  #10  
Old 22nd January 2009
NewAmerica NewAmerica is offline
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nice ironhead 83xlx...you got it! those fancy sprung secondary tensioners pick up the slack created by supension movment, to keep the chain from hopping during jounce and rebound of the shocks!
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