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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #1  
Old 22nd December 2006
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Default How to perform 883 to 1250 Conversion Day 1 "Repost"

Quote:
As reposted from Bubbas1 of Wisconsin on the HDforum web site
Decided to do the conversion on the wifes 06 883L. Here is a run down on what I have done so far. Hopefully it can help someone else.
I ordered the 1250 kit from NRHS Performance. Super friendly people to deal with. They explained everything I needed to know and then some. Kit will be here in 2 weeks so I decided I would tear the bike down while I waited. Some of the pics didnt turn out to good.

All bolts and nuts were put into plastic baggies and marked so I dont have extra parts left over when I go to put it back together.

Seat and battery were already removed for winter storage by the wife before I started.

1. Remove heat sheilds from rear and front exhaust. (Regular screwdriver)
2. Remove 2 head bolts (1/2" socket) for each pipe.


3. Remove exhaust mounting bolts. 2 under exhaust and 1 up towards the top for the rear pipe and 2 under the exhaust for the front pipe. (1/2" socket)


Side note..See the problem with the pic above???? I put the lift right on the bolt I had to take out.

4. Disconnect spark plugs
----------------------------------------------Tank Removal-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The manual says to drain the tank. I didnt do it and had no problems. No fuel drained from the tank at all. Only a little bit came out of the fuel line when I disconnected it.
1. Turn fuel off Green arrow
2. Disconnect fuel line Red Arrow (Note...the only way to get the clamp off to disconnect the fuel line is tocut it off. I just used tin snips and cut the part off that was sticking out. No damage to the hose)
3. Disconnect vaccum hose Blue arrow


4.Remove black cap, nut and bolt from the front and back of tank. (1/2" socket and 1/4" allen wrench) Green arrows only. Red ones are there by mistake.



5. Disconnect the tank vapor valve. Its located on the bottom of the tank on the right side. When you lift the tank you will see it. It pulls off.
6. Pull tank off and set aside.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Disconnect map sensor.


2.Remove A/C cover (T-30), Filter (T-27), and backing plate (9/16" socket)

3. Remove choke bracket.(8mm allen wrench..dont know why its metric..I probably used the wrong one but the bolts were not super tight so they came undone with no damage. When I put it back together I will try to use an american size) Book says to undo choke cable but the whole bracket slips thru to the other side with no problem so I didnt.


4. Pull out vent tube for carb. Do Not disconnect from carb. Pic is so you know how to re-route it.


5. Pull carb from boot. (Choke bracket will come with it.) Zip tie everything out of the way so there is no tension. (Book says to undo throtttle cables from carb but I have read on other sites that it dosent have to be done so I didnt do it)


6. Remove 4 bolts from the pipe that connects the jugs. (1/4" allen wrench) Pull the pipe out.
1 bolt is already removed in the pic.



Thats it for day 1. The Packer game was about to start and the beer was getting cold in the fridge so I called it a day. I will finish taking it apart this weekend. Will post what I did w/pictures.

Quote:
Awesome job and some great info Bubbas1. Thanks for allowing me to repost your info and pictures here on XLforum, and I hope it helps some people out on cylinder upgrades and performance projects. Keep us updated with day 2 of the project and post info here for all of us to see. Perhaps Germany Bert can add this to the sticky section of this thread. Hint Hint
Sportin_2007
  #2  
Old 22nd December 2006
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That's a nice "how to" post so far, how do you get the arrows in the pics ??
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Old 22nd December 2006
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Have you ever considered selling this DIY program. But first finish to the end I'm considering doing the same thing myself. I tore down a yamaha blaster to the frame powder coated it and sent heads to LRD for some work. I think I can do this as well but any snags you run into will only help me in the long run. Keep up the excelent job I'll be watching this closely. THANX, RANDY.
  #4  
Old 22nd December 2006
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You can go into paint and make the arrows.
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'05 Standard 883/1200 touring conversion with: '07 XB heads with 8.8:1 c/r, dragtron II a/c, Caliber 2into1 five step header, rejetted to: 46pilotjet @ two turns,needle clip on 4th groove,185 main jet,twin tech high performance ignition, 30 tooth trans pulley, jagg oil cooler, forward controls, pullback type handle bars,memphis fats windshield, Corbin classic solo seat with back rest, 10" pillion pad, black progressive 412 shocks 12.5" H-D springs, progressive fork springs, vista cruise control, and relocated ignition & coil to a stainless steel home brewed mount between the cylinders. (Temp. runs around 165-180 degrees in town and 180- 210 degrees on the freeway running 70-90mph and it uses no oil in between 3000 mile changes.) GPS calibrated speedometer.
  #5  
Old 24th December 2006
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I see "Bubbas1" has written and narated his day 2 thread on the other site. I trust that his day 2 thread will be posted here very soon and look forward to completion of this project. Awesome detail for the do it yourself type's.

I can't wait to see it here.......
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