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27th March 2005
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: the tropical north of Australia
Posts: 6,540 Sportster/Buell Model: 11 second 1200S Sportster/Buell Year: '98 Other Motorcycle Model: about a dozen others.....
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RTF ...Brake bleeding 101
OK guys seein as this is comin up too often.....here's a few tricks
The vacuum thingos are OK but I have one and don't use it.....not worth setting it up..
Before ya start crack the bleeder nipple with a ring spanner or socket ..... DO NOT use an open ended spanner...
Place the spanner on the nut and then put a length of hose over the nipple...I prefer clear hose and battery overflow hose works well.
Turn the handlebars to the left so the master cylinder is high.....it may be nesc to undo the master cyl a touch and move it around so that it is close to level fore and aft and the lever side needs to be higher than the outlet....
Take the cap off the master cylinder
If you are just changing fluid then pull the lever in slowly (if ya do it quickly it will squirt upwards...and wrap some rags oveer everything close while ya at it)
crack the the bleeder nipple slightly and pull the lever all the way in..
Nip the bleeder up BEFORE ya release the lever or ya just got air in there.
repeat untill the master cyl is ALMOST empty.....
then get a rag and clean the master cyl out...spotless....
pour in some new fluid and repeat the bleed...untill new fluid is coming out of the other end...you will have to top up the master cyl a few times..
Now if eveerything goes well...tighten the nipple up and check ya got good lever..and ya should be fine..
If you replace the line or get air in the system then this is where the position of the master cyl comes in handy...
set up the bleeder nipple and hose and spanner like I said to start with and fill the master cyl with new fluid
as you pull the lever in slowly it will close off the bleed port and then start to compress the fluid in the line...
if you have air in the line then "tickle" the lever lightly between these two points... you wil see air bubbles come out....
Keep ticklin and alternately pulling the lever in all the way and cracking the bleed nipple as in the first stage....ya want about half a dozen tickles for each couple of full throws....
As you start to get a bit of lever but still have air... tap the line all the way up it as you tickle the lever....the cross over piece under the bottom tree is a real pain if ya got dual discs...
Keep repeating untill ya got it....as it takes a bit of feel
I can do a fluid change in about 10 minutes...so it just takes practice
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Havin a few beers in the shed with my mates.
Last edited by stevo; 27th March 2005 at 03:37..
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27th March 2005
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Converse, Texas--Just Outside Of San Antonio
Posts: 7,771 Sportster/Buell Model: 883>1200 XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 2003 Other Motorcycle Model: FLHTCU Other Motorcycle Year: 2008
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Great write Stevo!!! 
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4th July 2005
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Greasemonkey
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 121 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
Reputation: 10

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On the front brake, I just wiggle the brake lever until the bubbles are out and I have a good lever. Did this when I installed braided cables and front brake line. Never opened the bleeder on the caliper.
Mike
__________________
2004 XL1200C, Mag front with Avon Venom X. 160 Metzler on back. Stage 1 w/ round air filter, detachable sides with sissy. Ghost Brackets w/ leather covered hard bags. Relocated rear turns w/ HD brakelight module, Mini-apes, ISO grips with rocker, trim on front fender, batt cover, oil tank cover, temp dip stick. 05 headlight w/modulator on high, Kuri silver bullets front. Polished SuperBrace, AMSOIL.
Wizard
Mavericks MC
MFFM
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25th June 2006
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Biker
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200s Sportster/Buell Year: 1999
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insatall a clear line on the brake bleeder fill with dot 5 fluid open bleeder take an airline force the fluid up and presto you have brakes.
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30th August 2007
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Know It All
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 162 Sportster/Buell Model: xl883c Sportster/Buell Year: 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterman99
insatall a clear line on the brake bleeder fill with dot 5 fluid open bleeder take an airline force the fluid up and presto you have brakes.
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this works great if you use a lower pressure source (tire pump, or something like it)... i've done it to multiple motorcycles, 4 wheelers, and dirtbikes. so much faster.
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http://www.xlforum.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=14878
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18th June 2010
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Senior Chief Harley Engineer 2nd Class
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 1,623 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883C (1235 Conv) Sportster/Buell Year: 2005 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XL883R Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2006
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What diameter hose fits over the nipple?
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Erica in KC (Red)
[IMG]http://www.mytriplogs.com/sigs/mtl_create_us_states_map.php?rz=75&vu=uvuvvvuuuuuuvvvvvuuuuuuvuvvvvuuuuuvvvvuuuvuvvuuvuvv[/IMG]
[B]"Ruth"[/B] '05 XL883C -> 1212 -> 1235 (don't ask) - Pearl Yellow
Progressive Fork Springs, Progressive 412s w/ heavy duty springs, 883 -> 1200 NRHS conversion (at 1235 Now), Daytona Twin Tec Ignition, Hurricane AC
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18th June 2010
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Senior Chief Harley Engineer 2nd Class
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 1,623 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883C (1235 Conv) Sportster/Buell Year: 2005 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XL883R Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2006
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Anyone have an answer? Need to get some air out of my lines. Squishy back brake. On my iPhone... Sorry for not searching more... Need to get dot 5 and clear tube on way home from work.
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26th April 2011
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Knows a thing or two
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 2,586 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883/1200 Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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Reply to urgent request...
You need(ed) 5/16" I.D. plastic tubing.
I hope this message reaches you in time....
Good luck.
__________________
 '06 XL 883/1200, "BLACK MARIAH":
Wiseco K1655s; Joker Machine AC; SE 'SP' muffs w/ Cycle Shack baffles; OEM SHOCKS on Tamarack -1" blocks; Metz 880s (110x19; 160x15) on laced wheels; Progressive fork springs; 4.5 gal tank; ReddTigger Mod Gauge Mount System...
See thread http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1102057 for a " pictorial history".
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26th April 2011
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Trapped Under ICE
Posts: 2,568 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLH 883/1200 Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1995 Other Motorcycle Model: FXDBI Other Motorcycle Year: 06
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1/4 id clear line works better. harder to get on but it won't slip off. And to be honest I've never had to touch the lever. simply cracking open the bleeder with the cap off the reservoir has always resulted in the fluid gravity bleeding. I'm a big believer in the vaccum pump for the rear though, otherwise it can turn into a fiasco quick with the slightest mistake.
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R.I.P. Brother
Mocha Mafioso
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26th April 2011
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,334 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883N Sportster/Buell Year: 2012
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when I use the clear tubing I put a zip tie on just tight enough to keep it on the brake bleeder. I also have dual discs up front and I got the speed bleeders don't impress me all that much and I'm coming up due for a fluid change front and back.
__________________
"I don't photograph in Black & White because I'm artistic, I'm colored blind"- unkown.
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