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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #11  
Old 25th February 2007
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The mat material saturates and there might be 1/16tht in. of fluid in the bottom. I just clean or replace the material and swab the the plastic container and I'm good for another ~2500 miles. In this configuration, I can monitor the output of each head individually....not that it is really important to know....but hey...free information on what the Sporty is doing.

I was not familiar with the stock airbox/filter configuration.
When I first saw the picture of 1200C's backplate....I said...wait, that not real....how can there be holes in the backplate.?!?!?!
Then I realized that the stock config is different from mine.....(thanks, I learned something).
Thanks 1200C for the pictures and information and nice job . I want to use that backplate picture you posted to help me design the scoop for the SEII.
I've made duplicate ham cans with fiberglass....and that is a good picture for shape and dimensions of the scoop.

Ride safe
Cookiey






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  #12  
Old 28th February 2007
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Took mine apart today for a visual inspection, happy to report no oil anywhere in air filter or housing, little bit of sand (normal) after blowing out air filter, looks like new. This is after about 3000 miles. Also for Dan and Shu, no visible degradation on the rubber parts showing.
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  #13  
Old 28th February 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1200C View Post
Also for Dan and Shu, no visible degradation on the rubber parts showing.
Yeah after someone else (who had their head out of the rump)pointed it out that the spark plug boots were outside the enclosed air filter, I kinda realized they wouldn't be affected by the a/f mixture during reversion. Glad it is working well though. It really is a good idea.
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  #14  
Old 28th February 2007
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In the K&N Filter thread, 05bCherry883C has posted some interesting comparisons (post # 55). I've PM'd him but he hasn't yet responded so I thought I'd add his comparison of the SE to his modified stock air box with the K&N 8834 stock replacement (rubbermounts only) filter. Interestingly, and I'd bet more effectively, he has cut out around the periphery (as opposed to cutting the back) of the stock box to leave the filter open to more direct air in the same fashion as the Screamin Eagle airbox and filter. Here's what he wrote.

"Well I have both. I have an '04 and an '05, both 883c. One with screamin' eagle one with a modified stock back plate and K&N repacement filter. I have even swapped them across. No difference between the two that I can tell."

"I did not drill holes in the back of the plastic plate. I slotted the the sides where the plastic back flanges to the outer cover. Long open slots about 3/8" x 2" to 4" long leaving some material to support the cover. This provides an almost continuous perimeter of open air flow to the K&N. Cost about $60 and the use of a Dremel. Took the rubber out of the ram opening to open that up a bit too."

"Between the two I like the K&N setup. The screamin eagle's filter is garbage. I could use the bug screen of my storm door and have the same filtration."
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Like Mike above, I'm no fan of the 04-07 SE due to the warped backing plate problem and the pinholes. Beyond that, my strongest doubt is about how effectively a low restriction non oiled filter can work? Yes, it's low restriction and gives good power, but what's going to catch the dirt and hold it? Doesn't a filter have to have either restriction or oil to hold the dirt? To me, a much larger standard paper filter would work well (more square inches of filtration media provides for less resistance) as would a large oiled foam filter or the oiled gauze of the K&N filters. In my opinion, the SE would be an excellent setup if it had an oiled gauze filter and if the backing plate didn't warp. As it is, how can it be depended upon to protect the motor? That's why I have an interest in ideas for modifying the stock air box and running the stock replacement K&N 8834 filter.

Shu aso had some very knowlegeable and interesting comments on filtration in general and on comparisons between the stock box and the K&N filter on the K&N Filter thread.
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...514#post644514 Post # 53

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Last edited by Don Burton; 28th February 2007 at 11:11..
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  #15  
Old 3rd March 2007
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I have posted some photos... my first time, I think al three are in the gallery.

I'd post the here but I guess I'm too new of a newbe.

It is my experimental rough cut protoype. Cut mark lines still can be seen, opening not smoothed up completely etc. I did it real qucik to feel the effect before spending more time/effort opening it up more.

My objective was this was to avoid pulling hot air from the cylinders by opening up the back. The SE has about the same gap around all edges of it's backing plate.

I have swapped back and forth with the SE and the "feel" is the same. Top end noise resulting from opening up filter is the same too.
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  #16  
Old 4th March 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05bcherry883c View Post
I have posted some photos... my first time, I think al three are in the gallery.
That's a really neat and clean looking job! Here's a link to the photos in Mike's gallery: SEE THE PHOTOS!
http://xlforum.net/photopost/showgal...&condition=and

Last edited by Don Burton; 5th March 2007 at 00:51..
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  #17  
Old 5th March 2007
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Default K&N Effective Filtration Area Formula & Another Mod.

I just tried another mod by using 1/2 inch spacers and one inch screws to hold the ham can cover 1/2 inch out from the backing plate, leaving a 1/2 inch open space all the way around. I think that it would flow very well but it wasn't esthetically pleasing and the 1/2 inch more protrusion of the can is at least noticeable on the right knee. I like 05bcherry883c's edge mod better, as far as appearance is concerned, and I think that I will also add two large cutouts in the backing plate as well. It should get plenty of air.

According to the formula on the K&N site, for best performance, a 73 cubic inch motor will require 21 square inches of it's filtration material at our 6000 rpm redline. The K&N 8834 stock replacement filter has 24 square inches, so the filter itself will not become a source of restriction if the air box can be made to flow enough air, and I think that it can be. The SE filter has approx 1 1/2 square inches more filtration area, due to it's slightly larger diameter, but it isn't needed. Even at 7000 rpm the 73 cubic inch motor would require 24.5 square inches, so the stock replacement K&N filter is still in the ball park. I think that the mods to the stock air box that have been discussed, along with the K&N stock replacement filter, provide a great alternative to dealing with the problems of the SE filter.

Here's the K&N Effective Filtration Area Formula that I used: Cubic inch displacement X RPM divided by 20,839.

73 CID X 6000 RPM
------------------ = 21 square inches
20839

73 CID X 7000 RPM
------------------ = 24.5 square inches
20839

Last edited by Don Burton; 5th March 2007 at 03:31..
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  #18  
Old 5th March 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Burton View Post
That's a really neat and clean looking job! Here's a link to the photos in Mike's gallery: SEE THE PHOTOS!
http://xlforum.net/photopost/showgal...&condition=and
I agree, looks great. Thinking about drilling some 3/8" or 1/2" holes aroung mine now, kinda like the new nightster's belt guard.
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  #19  
Old 6th March 2007
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I haven't seen any mods to the rigid-mount sporties so here's mine. I just did it about 20 minutes ago and it took me about 1/2 an hour because I've seem to have misplaced my drill bits. I haven't ran it yet, but I'll letchya know how it goes.



also a quick note: I don't have a K&N filter yet but I plan on getting one and cutting away more material later, when I get some less restrictive baffles for the baffle-less mufflers sitting in my room. I'll also do a re-jet then. I think this mod will help because my bike runs a bit rich seeing how I don't have to choke it on cold days to start it.
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  #20  
Old 6th March 2007
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Well I just got back from a short ride. All I have to say is WOW. It made a noiticable difference to my 1200S, particularly in the down-low torque. Makes me wonder if the previous owner maybe changed the jetting on the carb, though it still had stock mufflers and intake. It really surprised me when I was goofing off a little bit and from a street light I took off slowly and then @ 20 mph I pulled in the clutch, reved it to 3500 and dumped it, and the front front wheel came off the ground about 2 1/2 feet! Mind you my bike has Cafe bars so it was a shock to say the least, especially without stage 1. The intake mod definately complimented my ignition and wires.
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