06 Clutch Install

[YeaItsSlo]

just a note to everyone.. i was using the Trickshift non synthetic and then i switched yesterday to Hurst fluid.. non synthetic and the bike shifts soooo much smother.. its like a whole new bike..

[hdmc_ru2]

I put Bardahl Gear & Chaincase lube in mine, it is non-synthetic and seems to work good.

Here is a link to the pic...

http://www.bardahl.com/mods/gallery/...&box=&shownew=

[Little_Dave]

Very interesting thread and brilliant pics! Am thinking of changing my 1200 (converted from 883 2003) to a lock-up type clutch, I assume that the removal tool has to be bought or borrowed to do that task?

[Jafa39]

You sir are a star!!! I read this article, made my own tool out of a thick, square washer, an old nut and a broken Ironhead speedo bracket and got the job done without having to take the clutch off or go to the dealership.......excellent post...so good I joined the site :-)

[moltenone]

very informative pictorial,thanks Chris.

mark

[Don Burton]

One poster said that installing this kit got rid of the first gear clunk in his gearbox, which he assumed was from slight dragging of the stock clutch. Have the rest of you guys had the same experience with the first gear clunk disappearing after installing this kit?

[XLXR]

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=168162

The spring plate slows the engagement of the clutch discs because the springs absorb some of the force instead of having the actual clutch discs slam together. My guess is Harley puts it in just to make the clutch lever less senstive and safer for inexperienced riders. The extra plate kit replaces the spring plate with regular discs. After replacing my spring plate, which broke apart when the brass rivets sheared off, the clutch engaged much faster and I had to get used to the clutch lever being more sensitive. But I liked it much better.

If you have a big clunk when shifting into gear, the spring plate is causing the discs to drag a bit even when the clutch lever is pulled all the way in, and you need to adjust the clutch mechanism and cable, remove the spring plate, and adjust tension of the primary chain.

After doing all this, my bike shifts as good as a jap bike, with the stock clutch discs.

[Don Burton]

XLXR, I remember reading your adventure with your own clutch and thought it was interesting. If I had a problem or was adding a lot of HP, I'd go ahead and do the same thing. That said, one can make all of the adjustments with the stock setup that you have recommended and still have a clunk when dropping into first gear. I seriously wonder if the clunk can be totally eliminated with this kit as the poster suggested.

[XLXR]

I seriously wonder if the clunk can be totally eliminated with this kit as the poster suggested.

It was totally eliminated on my bike after I removed the spring plate. Warped clutch discs or worn clutch hubs can also cause clunks because the clutch cannot totally disengage.

[Don Burton]

Originally Posted by XLXR

It was totally eliminated on my bike after I removed the spring plate. Warped clutch discs or worn clutch hubs can also cause clunks because the clutch cannot totally disengage.

Thanks for your answer. So you're confirming that the clunk is gone with your mod. Good! The stock bikes all clunk some from the factory and mine hasn't changed any although I have adjusted it. There isn't anything wrong with it other than the design. I have always assumed that the problem comes from the fact that the clutch drags some no matter what the adjustment. In fact I know it does as when I push it when cold while in gear it has quite a bit of resistance, but not so much when warmed up.

I'd be inclined to go your route with the H-D parts as the discs would all be the same and I could run either Synthetic or Dino juice in the gearbox. The Energy I quality control would concern me and I don't need a heavier spring as I'm not ever going to take this thing past 80 HP.