Ironhead ultima electronic ignition

[stu]

Does ony one know what the default dead cranking revs are set to? I would like to use this but don't want to have to buy the programming software just to set it up for kick start...

[bustert]

i run the system on my 01 sport and no problems to report!!!

i would suggest to use the voes option for better streetability. i use it to get better mileage and throttle response on the low end by modifying the curve. i also installed by-pass switches to program on the fly for full out. never know who you will meet at a red light. i am currently using the most aggressive curve. i do not suggest the race as it is like a mechanical unit, full on at low rpm, unless of coarse you are on a track.
one point is to get the right timing cup, hd had two for the xl.

the unit will fire both cylinders on start up and switch to single after the processor learns the firing sequence. i do not think you will have too much trouble on a manuel foot.

[bustert]

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I put the Ultima Single Fire on my 1981 XLH and I´m very happy.
But when you ride with 1st and 2nd gears you must to go to 2nd and 3rd earlier than OEM ignition.
1st and 2nd became "shorter" with this ignition.



please explain how this is so?? i pull 7k+ in all gears.

[mrrick]

I installed a ultima on my 80 and notice the same thing. Only happens when the bike is cold[choke still on ] I pretty much short shift to avoid the stumble that occurs. I believe whats happening is the advance is full at 2000 rpm if you select the curve for no voes, and it is simply too much advance for the speed your going. When its warm I am not feathering the throttle and shift around 26 or 2700 rpm, already at full advance[no stumble]

[forqueue]

"1st and 2nd became "shorter" with this ignition."
May be hitting the rev limiter if it's set low, like around 5500

"Does any one know what the default dead cranking revs are set to? "
Dead revs are set at 3. Works fine but takes 1 extra kick with the ignition on.

[BuckIRyder]

How is the ignition affecting shifting? Is detonation occuring??

[Jtrapass]

I find it interesting that this thread has come back to life today. I'm sick of points. No matter what I've ever done my rear cylinder was always an extra few degrees advanced compared to the front. My best guess is that the cam cover isn't sitting straight anymore, so the cam is rotating off center. I don't think it'll hurt anything, but it's annoying. The software lets me fix this.

I installed the ultima ignition last night, and for the first time in years my bike started at the first push of the button. No fussing, no fighting. ... well, second press of the button. The first time I still had the bike in 4th from static timing.

I tossed the timing light on and grounded the voes wire ...

Be sure to ground the voes wire for timing with a light because it'll put you at full advance around 1500 rpm rather than 2500 rpm. This shouldn't be necessary if you have an actual voes switch installed, but mine is still in the mail from debrix, jireh was out of stock.

... holding the rpms steady around 1800, the timing mark was very easy to see in the window. I've never had this much ease working with points. The front cylinder was firing around 38 degrees and the rear around 42.

So rather than fuss with spinning the module, I turned to the software and just retarded everything a few degrees, plus fixed the 4 degree offset on the rear cylinder. Now everything just works. It's beautiful.

If you want to do this, too (for cheap) download the software from dyna's website: The ultima ignition is the same as the dyna 2ki. Download it here from dyna's website, http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/ click the software tab and download curvemaker for HD. The curves that come default int he software are a little less aggressive than the curves shown in the ultima manual, but everything still works.

Now you still need that hundred dollar programming cable, right? That expensive cable is just converting your computer's serial port from -10v/10v 10 volts to 0v/12v. Well you can make one on the cheap with 4 resisters and 2 npn transisters. I'll post my circuit and some pictures of mine in a minute here. I owe some thanks to a couple guys on the HD forum for giving me a hand finding everything I needed and my buddy Anton for letting me use his scope to get everything working.

Now if only the carb jetting was this easy.

[Jtrapass]

Originally Posted by stu

Does ony one know what the default dead cranking revs are set to? I would like to use this but don't want to have to buy the programming software just to set it up for kick start...

Yes, dead crank revs default to 3. But you can fix this with a cheap cable to be made at home (if you're tech savvy), or by a friend down the street (if you're not).

Scroll down for details.

[snowman]

I'm running the Ultima 2000i copy on my '97 1200 and it has four settings for timing advance. Right now I have it in the second least advanced. I had it on the most advanced but the bike just stumbled terribly, like the carb was screwed up so I backed it off.

Never saw any detonation...

[Jtrapass]

Originally Posted by Jtrapass

I'll post my circuit and some pictures of mine in a minute here....

First, here's my disclaimer:
I have no interest in making more of these and marketing them. Dyna/Ultima is doing that fine. I made one for myself, and I'm satisfied with that. I also take no responsibility for damage to your computer or your bike if you try this and it doesn't work. if you're not comfortable building circuits, get help from somebody (not me) who is.

Build this circuit:


most of the parts should be available at any electronics store. I actually ended up using a 2N3904 instead of the transistor I listed above. Any reasonable NPN BJT should work fine. And for the resisters, they don't need to be exact, either. Anything close should be fine. You also don't need a pull up resister on that final output that connects to voes line because the voes port on the programmer has its own built in pull up resister of 1k. But you can add one if it gives you a warm and fuzzy or makes your circuit easier to test before clipping it on your bike.

It should end up looking like this:




And again, download the hd curvemaker software and manuals here:
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/

Happy hacking.