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  #1  
Old 12th June 2009
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Default Buying another one! Who's using synthetic in an iron head and what weight?

I've owned 5 sportsters in my lifetime.... a 72 , 74, 76 , 77 (brand new) and a 79 (took it on a trade) and it looks like I'm getting a nice, clean, relatively unmolested 75 (converted back to right side shift) Is anyone using synthetics in sporties now and if so what weight?

1st post by the way !
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Old 12th June 2009
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welcome from spokane, washington. theres been quite a few threads about syn oil in ironheads. I believe the overall consenses was no thanks.
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Old 12th June 2009
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Welcome! to the Ironhead/XLForum.

Lots of recent talk about using straight 40/50/60 dino oils, depending on air temperature.
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Old 12th June 2009
BuckIRyder BuckIRyder is offline
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Use fossil 50wt. in the engine, synthetic 20/50 in the trans.
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Old 12th June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckIRyder View Post
Use fossil 50wt. in the engine, synthetic 20/50 in the trans.
They'll land up mixing a bit no? Isn't there a breather hole that vents pressure?
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  #6  
Old 12th June 2009
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I will pass along this advice from a very trusted master mechanic, master machininst, and land speed record holder (on an ironhead) who had about 30 years experience working on old-iron and I had the pleasure of studying under.

"I strongly discourage you from using synthetic in your ironhead. On a molecular level, synthetic oils are engineered with much smaller molecules than dino oils, which in turn makes them slicker. This allows the nonsealed older styles of bearings to skate inside of the races. This inturn causes heat and brinelling. If you want to get the most out of your bottom end, use dino. No blends. Straight 50w up to about 95 deg days then 60w."

As far as the primary....they make sportlube for that. Dig it.

Oh, that breather hole. My advice...plug it.
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  #7  
Old 12th June 2009
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The old tale that synth causes rollers to skate has been proven myth long ago.
But synth in loose-clearanced old twins does rattle a lot and tend to burn a lot, this I found from experience. And synth in the gearbox of an Iron head I found makes the clutch slip.

Plug what breather hole? The bottom end and the gearbox both need to breathe.
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Old 12th June 2009
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Plug the breather????? This almost sounds insane, but shit, thats where most of my oily mess is coming from. Can you really do this?
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  #9  
Old 12th June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunterjaeger View Post
Plug the breather????? This almost sounds insane, but shit, thats where most of my oily mess is coming from. Can you really do this?
No you can't. Go to the techincal stickies index at the top of the forum and look up the Engine Breather 101 thread. It will explain what is causing the oily mess out your breather and how to fix it.

If you plug the crankcase breather, all that pressure will come out the next easiest place, usually a gasket or points seal etc. Plus it robs you of several horsepower as the lower end of the engine acts as a big air compressor.
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Old 12th June 2009
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I think he means to plug the transver valve between the case and the primary. If it goes bad, and your bike wet sumps, allot if not all of the oil winds up in the primary. HD finally blocked it off perminentaly in '77. Last winter my '75 wet sumped and all of my oil wound up in the primary because it went through the transfer valve.


I would not plug the breather, as Hopper said, bad things would happen.


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