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Sportster Motorcycle Motor - Top End Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Top End issues. Rockerboxes, Valves, Cylinders, Pistons, Rings, Lift Rods, etc...

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  #31  
Old 9th August 2011
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadz View Post
I also believe that this is something everyone should read: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It's how I break in my engines and I can honestly say I notice a huge difference in performance and reliability.

I noticed first hand and with my own 4 eyes the difference.


This guy seems like he might be on to something

Quote:
Originally Posted by bitpusher View Post
+1 to the builders disagreeing with toadz with eloquence and data.

sorry toadz, you are just wrong.

hammering (your own) metal that just met with heat and pressure is just foolish.

to advise others to do so is mean and foolish.
That guy got to second guessing himself and fell for that mototune bullshit.

the autopsy following a mototune fast&hard street breakin is here
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  #32  
Old 12th August 2011
DonWoh DonWoh is offline
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404 Not Found, on OP Link, bummer and I wanted to see it.
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  #33  
Old 12th August 2011
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How about here:

http://www.axtellsales.com/files/PDF.../Ring-Seal.pdf
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  #34  
Old 29th December 2012
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Way back in 1970, I worked at a racing engine builder called Motor Sport Research. We developed a cylinder honing technique for small-block Chevies that involoved using a deck-plate with torqued head bolts and maintaining block at elevated temperatures. It helped reduce taper and out of round conditions that affected ring seal at high RPM. The Sunnen Honing machine was excellent at controlling cylinder dimensions within specs. It was also very accurate at producing fine micro-inch finishes.
We experimented with a variety of piston rings, including Dykes style rings and head-land rings. Some had moly-filled sealing faces. We did a lot of work on break-in techniques because race engines didn't spend much time being babied. I even recall one tech who tried using Bon Ami, a form of fine scouring powder, to help seat rings (unsuccessfully).
I bet temperature control during break-in is even more important on air-cooled V-twin engines than on liquid-colled engines.
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  #35  
Old 29th December 2012
John Harper John Harper is online now
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Bon Ami was used on the early short block/OHV V8's, poured down the carb to rough up the cylinder walls and reduce oil consumption. That's what I have always heard.

John
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  #36  
Old 29th December 2012
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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wow. did i really say that? (see above)....

i am not going to throw any more punches in this holy war because i have already proven how little i knew (know) but my top ends are now broken in within an hour (not counting time in front of the fan between flights around the block) using quikseat by totalseal and the one thing i don't have problems with is ring seal or ring/piston/cylinderwall damage. last 4 builds have come apart looking almost as good as they did going together (top end, anyway).

that's just me. i am lucky to have a bunch of parts and i ain't afraid to break em trying things so make sure you take anything i say with a grain of salt.

i am absolutely not saying that there is anything wrong with the more common lughtly lubed, slow and easy break in, especially when the vendor you just paid big bucks to suggests it. they are who you should listen to if you want warrantee and support, but it's not the only way to skin that cat. if i knew then what i think i know now i would have just kept my mouth shut. wait, we all know that's not true, right?
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  #37  
Old 16th June 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadz View Post
Sorry to say but I have to take someone's word with a grain of salt who sells pistons and rings. Poor break-in would surely get them better business as sooner down the road they will need to be back for a rebuild.

[/I]"
Ha ha I know its old but made me laugh , because everyone wants to buy parts with a rep of failure... F'ing Clown. I was put off the cheap kieth black pistons I see on eBay after reading they knick named Ka Boom ect. I'd rather get something with a good rep

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  #38  
Old 16th June 2013
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So it's better business to have it work and work well as they tell there friends 100k miles later this kit is ace go buy one now ... And not tell people 10 miles later it's poo it went pop. I certainly wouldn't go back and buy another. Lol

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  #39  
Old 12th November 2013
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Toad has an opinion about this matter and is entitled to it . I think that he can voice it if he wants . It is Americia. He has the right to do as he sees fit to do. I was trained to do things a different way and will stick to them. If a I buy a part and they recomend I do this I will try to follow it as close as I can. I trust them. I would not want a pissed off coustomer after me for doing what was asked of me. It is possible that Toad has trust issues.
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  #40  
Old 12th November 2013
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Bob s hog Bob s hog is offline
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you should follow break in instructions this allways turns to a big shit fest , break you engin in to ring manufacturing and as for micro welding bla bla its detonation thats it. I broke mine into total seals recommondation and good to go no oil barfing out of my air breathere yet at over 500 miles so fare tryed the hd way and glazed a set of rings as for warranty on that shhesh what ever . good luck getting anyone to cover that , how i brock mine in this time way diffrent gaped my rings 16 and 16 set to total seal specs fired the bike looked for leaks didnt see any hoped on and took it out run her up to road speeds and dont lug it, but very the speed a lot did that for a 100 miles and change oil and filthere . so morale of the story is unless you are running hd pistonts and rings and jugs you might not be breaking your engin in right but to each there own .and if you break it in to hd specs and it works for you good. It dint work for me .and as for the moto tune way it does work .
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