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  #1  
Old 21st September 2009
gmc1952's Avatar
gmc1952 gmc1952 is offline
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Default 2008 Trask intercooled Turbo sportster QUESTIONS answered!!!!

Here is the private message i have gotten to start me on this topic,One of many actually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Screw Loose Dan
I've been doing some research on the Trask turbo system. As far as I can tell, you are the only one on the forum with one installed. So, I'm doing my investigation/research now.

I noted you said in this thread:
Quote:
its a trask turbo system that i am making better as i go, to be honest i am glad i got it used second hand because they really do some shotty work and if i paid full price like they ask for in the kit i would be pissed off with what i would have gotten. But thats an entirely different story...
I was just wondering if you wouldn't mind explaining that a little? What kind of shotty work? Nasty welds? Poor design? Poor hardware? Crappy chrome?

From reading your various posts, it also sounds like you know a thing or two about turbos. I understand that intercoolers make a HUGE difference in most applications (cars/trucks). And I have no doubt there is an improvement on a bike, but I'm wondering how much it would hurt to not run one. I'm not big into chrome and skulls or anything, but I'm really not a fan of the look of an intercooler on a naked air cooled bike.

Any other insights you care to share would be appreciated. Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 21st September 2009
jeffy jeffy is offline
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no intercooler on an air cooled motor is gonna make a disaster. the motor gets hot enough as it is and turbo motors run really hot especially without an intercooler.
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  #3  
Old 21st September 2009
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well about the chrome thing i dont like it either i posted a newer pic of my bike with the trask system black and my newer nightster tank,since my original large tank dident fit with my intercooler.

The kit i got was made for the smaller peanut tank,so thats what i bought,so i can finally use my entire tank of fuel.(had to put a 3" tank lift on the old tank to make it work and clear my intercooler).

Anyways about the intercooler you dont have to run one and to be honest i am going to make a intercooler delete pipe for my system as well,just so i can swap back and forth with it.

The intercooler does two things besides looking alittle odd on the bike First it cools the air going into the intake dropping the temp in the intake air means more air being shoved inside the cylinders since its more dense which in turn means more power,ruffly 5-10hp at least on my trask system it is.
It also does cool down the intake and motor even though it might be small,meaning a longer living system.

Now the question you asked about if i would buy a trask system new for the price.NO WAY!!!! Not for the 5 grand price tag it has,way over priced.

To make my system work the way it should have worked when i got it or at least how it should have worked if i bought it new from them.

I have had to redo ALL WELDS ,HEAD WELDS,EXHAUST WELDS,AS WELL AS THE INTERCOOLER WELDS. The only thing that saved me a ton in $$ redoing these things is i work in a VW/Sandcar shop where we work on turbo systems all day long and i have access to the tig welder i need and wire to do this with all for free...Thank god!!!

Secondly when i first bolted on the system even though it was used with in the first week i blew off the Blow of valve LITTERLY!!! crusing down the highway at 60mph throttled it got to 70 and then it lost boost rapidly and i was like what the F..... drove the bike home only to look down and there sitting between the motor and exhaust was their shitty china made BOV which again blew off because of someones shitty welds.

So what did i do i took off the intake hat and got myself a Greddy Type R adjustable BOV from work($300BOV) alittle over kill maybe, then drilled and threaded their intake hat to except the FLANGED BOV with a gasket and two bolts instead of their shitty welded on one which is not adjustable at all.So if you ever want more boost forget it, unless you switch it like i did to an adjustable one.

Also their turbo oil drain line is shotty a piece of rubber hose with two clamps on two push on brass fittings.Again changed it to Earl AN -8 fittings and earls new Kevlar woven hose with a teflon inside.No leaks and the hose can withstand extreme temps and should last a very long time. The hose was originally made for the fire departments.

Now for the good news the Best pieces out of this kit it the turbo a GT2252 Garret turbo very efficent and well working hasent given me troubles at all.I probably should rebuild it since everything else at this point has been done.

Secondly their intake hat is much bulkier then i would have liked and i could have made my own much smaller but it does work and seal very well.Just dont brake their intake hat to cover gasket its $50 and you can only get it from them..dont ask how i know this....

Also the handle bar boost gauge is of good quality its an autometer unit and their handle bar clamp for it is very well made.Best part of the entire kit and it only costs $200 from them new,if i was going to build my own system i would get this piece from them for sure.But it does comes in there kit for the 5g's.

Other then that the program they give you for it is very accurate as well or at least pretty close to what it will run with.Loaded after i installed the kit and i drove it with their system maps for 3,000 miles no problems or backfires or anything.Great Tuning maps, i dont think i could have done any better myself with them.But the maps to get me started that Nick gave me was great as well as being the best free thing i got

As of currently i am still runnning this system with the intercooler as well as i have had to redo the maps for my new mods i have made to the bike.

I am currently running the trask intercooled system as well as SE.551 cams and Beehive springs(7000rpm) as well as my ported and polished heads and back cut valves to improve my flow and air into the motor as well as letting me get a bit more power out of it.

At this point i am currently running maps similar to a vrod destroyer. ( i know since i compared my maps with the destroyer maps that come with the SERT CD,just got curious one day) And the bike is still very manageable on the street but when you jump on it you better hold on.

I do still however need to get the bike currently dynoed and taken to the 1/4 mile track to see what i can pull with it,not even trying my hardest but just pull up to the line and drive it like if i was on the street. I know the stock bike pulls about mid 13 quarters i cant imagine what mine does.

So for everyone wanting to know what i have done exactly to the bike or motor i should say.

-Trask system with intercooler
-Re-welded all welds (header,exhaust,intercooler)
-Changed out their shitty Napa clamps for some good Band Clamps with nuts and bolts
-Greddy Type R BOV Adjustable and flanged(something they should have done!)
- VRSC injectors 4.81(come with the kit)
-NGR Plugs (colder plugs then stock)
- Earl fittings and kevlar woven hose for turbo drain
-Ported and polished Stock heads with beehive springs 7000rpm limit
-SE551 cams Bolt in was perfect for the turbo and stock pistons
-Reworked Trask maps and SE551 maps from the cams
-stock fuel pump boosted pressure regulator airline

I believe thats it for the motor..

Any more questions or comments just message me..


Other mods to the bike..

-Mustang seat with backrest
-Passenger seat and sissy bar
-Deuce rear rim with 180 Screamin eagle GT502 tire
(stock belt drive as well,besides a small shim behind the stock pully)
-custom drilled belt guard
Had a fishboy gauge delete clamp with i removed in favor of my speedo
-Chopped rear fender ruffly 6" as much as i could and still have passengers
-rear signal mod Turn/stop/brake
-Front Brembo caliper
-shaved under tank wire carrier
-moved ignition key
-stickers
currently-shaved front signals
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  #4  
Old 21st September 2009
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GMC - Thanks so much for this post! I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions once I've digested all this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffy View Post
no intercooler on an air cooled motor is gonna make a disaster. the motor gets hot enough as it is and turbo motors run really hot especially without an intercooler.
Jeffy - Have you run a air cooled motor without an intercooler? I'm sure they make a significant difference. Just wondering how many guys have toasted motors because they aren't intercooled? Trask sells a kit without the intercooler...really the only reason I had thought about it.
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  #5  
Old 21st September 2009
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Any time you run exhaust gases (hot), through a compression system similar to a turbo (in that the compressor wheel is directly linked to the exhaust wheel), you're going to heat up your air intake temps. Coupled to that, you're forcing more air into the cylinder, which also will heat temps up. So, you have 2 additional factors contributing to higher intake temps. As for how that's going to affect an aircooled engine, I wouldn't think it would be productive. As a side note, perhaps meth injection might be a more appealing alternative to a bulky intercooler??

A few questions. What PSI is the turbo pushing? Also, what are the flow limits of the stock injectors? How many CFM does that turbo max out?

I would think someone could put together a kit for pretty cheap. There are a few turbos that run 500 bucks. Make sure your fueling is right (I guess new injectors are needed, but those can be had for cheap), and air temps and flow are correct (via a SERT or some other aftermarket ECM management), and you should be good. Parts alone shouldn't run more than 1500. Granted, you'd need to fabricate somethings (manifold and exhaust)
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  #6  
Old 22nd September 2009
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Thats my next thing on my list how did you guess. METHANOL injection as well,very easy system to make just need some more time to get what i need to do it. Cooler temps even more which in turn = more power
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  #7  
Old 22nd September 2009
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my turbo is pushing 8lbs which is what they set it for, the turbos limit is 30lbs however which i possibly with adjusting the wastegate on it.
The BOV is also able to hold 30lbs as well which is why i got it how ever i must tell you. You will probably blow the case apart with that much boost and melt the pistons. Plus 8lbs is alot for a daily trust me,even before i switched the cams on my 1200 i could hit 70 fairly fast in 4th gear,for passing if i wanted to.
However my current setup i can get to 70 in third under boost and lift the front end off the ground if i wanted to.

The injectors i am using are 4.81 VRSC injectors stock is 3.89, The limit from what i have heard on the 1130forum.com is they say 180hp for those injectors. So i would say for stock injectors probably about 120hp is maxed out,but i never tryed them with my setup so i dont know for sure maybe someone on here can chime in for this one.
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  #8  
Old 22nd September 2009
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Plus i run the SERT Pro software if you wanted to know, i had to run a boost line to my fuel pump regulator to boost the pressure when under boost. However if you run a thundermax unit instead and spend the 800 for one the fuel pump mod is not needed according to trask since it lets you play with fuel flow supposedly as well when under boost,which sert does not since it was never ment to be used the way i am using it. I am basically Boosting the fuel pump as well as the motor when i go into Boost.

So in turn 8lbs of boost goes to my boost gauge,8lbs to my motor and 8lbs to my fuel pump regulator.
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  #9  
Old 22nd September 2009
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Oh and i have seen the Gt2252 turbo sold rebuild for about $200-300.New its like a $800 turbo. And its much more efficent then the Gt17 model which i see alot of buell guys use.
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  #10  
Old 22nd September 2009
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If you run some meth, I don't see why you can't get into 12-13 psi range. Just keep a tight eye on the EGT's.
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