well about the chrome thing i dont like it either i posted a newer pic of my bike with the trask system black and my newer nightster tank,since my original large tank dident fit with my intercooler.
The kit i got was made for the smaller peanut tank,so thats what i bought,so i can finally use my entire tank of fuel.(had to put a 3" tank lift on the old tank to make it work and clear my intercooler).
Anyways about the intercooler you dont have to run one and to be honest i am going to make a intercooler delete pipe for my system as well,just so i can swap back and forth with it.
The intercooler does two things besides looking alittle odd on the bike
First it cools the air going into the intake dropping the temp in the intake air means more air being shoved inside the cylinders since its more dense which in turn means more power,ruffly 5-10hp at least on my trask system it is.
It also does cool down the intake and motor even though it might be small,meaning a longer living system.
Now the question you asked about if i would buy a trask system new for the price.NO WAY!!!! Not for the 5 grand price tag it has,way over priced.
To make my system work the way it should have worked when i got it or at least how it should have worked if i bought it new from them.
I have had to redo ALL WELDS ,HEAD WELDS,EXHAUST WELDS,AS WELL AS THE INTERCOOLER WELDS. The only thing that saved me a ton in $$ redoing these things is i work in a VW/Sandcar shop where we work on turbo systems all day long and i have access to the tig welder i need and wire to do this with all for free...Thank god!!!
Secondly when i first bolted on the system even though it was used with in the first week i blew off the Blow of valve LITTERLY!!! crusing down the highway at 60mph throttled it got to 70 and then it lost boost rapidly and i was like what the F..... drove the bike home only to look down and there sitting between the motor and exhaust was their shitty china made BOV which again blew off because of someones shitty welds.
So what did i do i took off the intake hat and got myself a Greddy Type R adjustable BOV from work($300BOV) alittle over kill maybe, then drilled and threaded their intake hat to except the FLANGED BOV with a gasket and two bolts instead of their shitty welded on one which is not adjustable at all.So if you ever want more boost forget it, unless you switch it like i did to an adjustable one.
Also their turbo oil drain line is shotty a piece of rubber hose with two clamps on two push on brass fittings.Again changed it to Earl AN -8 fittings and earls new Kevlar woven hose with a teflon inside.No leaks and the hose can withstand extreme temps and should last a very long time. The hose was originally made for the fire departments.
Now for the good news the Best pieces out of this kit it the turbo a GT2252 Garret turbo very efficent and well working hasent given me troubles at all.I probably should rebuild it since everything else at this point has been done.
Secondly their intake hat is much bulkier then i would have liked and i could have made my own much smaller but it does work and seal very well.Just dont brake their intake hat to cover gasket its $50 and you can only get it from them..dont ask how i know this....
Also the handle bar boost gauge is of good quality its an autometer unit and their handle bar clamp for it is very well made.Best part of the entire kit and it only costs $200 from them new,if i was going to build my own system i would get this piece from them for sure.But it does comes in there kit for the 5g's.
Other then that the program they give you for it is very accurate as well or at least pretty close to what it will run with.Loaded after i installed the kit and i drove it with their system maps for 3,000 miles no problems or backfires or anything.Great Tuning maps, i dont think i could have done any better myself with them.But the maps to get me started that Nick gave me was great as well as being the best free thing i got
As of currently i am still runnning this system with the intercooler as well as i have had to redo the maps for my new mods i have made to the bike.
I am currently running the trask intercooled system as well as SE.551 cams and Beehive springs(7000rpm) as well as my ported and polished heads and back cut valves to improve my flow and air into the motor as well as letting me get a bit more power out of it.
At this point i am currently running maps similar to a vrod destroyer. ( i know since i compared my maps with the destroyer maps that come with the SERT CD,just got curious one day) And the bike is still very manageable on the street but when you jump on it you better hold on.
I do still however need to get the bike currently dynoed and taken to the 1/4 mile track to see what i can pull with it,not even trying my hardest but just pull up to the line and drive it like if i was on the street. I know the stock bike pulls about mid 13 quarters i cant imagine what mine does.
So for everyone wanting to know what i have done exactly to the bike or motor i should say.
-Trask system with intercooler
-Re-welded all welds (header,exhaust,intercooler)
-Changed out their shitty Napa clamps for some good Band Clamps with nuts and bolts
-Greddy Type R BOV Adjustable and flanged(something they should have done!)
- VRSC injectors 4.81(come with the kit)
-NGR Plugs (colder plugs then stock)
- Earl fittings and kevlar woven hose for turbo drain
-Ported and polished Stock heads with beehive springs 7000rpm limit
-SE551 cams Bolt in was perfect for the turbo and stock pistons
-Reworked Trask maps and SE551 maps from the cams
-stock fuel pump boosted pressure regulator airline
I believe thats it for the motor..
Any more questions or comments just message me..
Other mods to the bike..
-Mustang seat with backrest
-Passenger seat and sissy bar
-Deuce rear rim with 180 Screamin eagle GT502 tire
(stock belt drive as well,besides a small shim behind the stock pully)
-custom drilled belt guard
Had a fishboy gauge delete clamp with i removed in favor of my speedo
-Chopped rear fender ruffly 6" as much as i could and still have passengers
-rear signal mod Turn/stop/brake
-Front Brembo caliper
-shaved under tank wire carrier
-moved ignition key
currently-shaved front signals