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Sportster Motorcycle Suspension, Frame, Forks, Handlebars, Fuel Tank, Oil Tank, Fenders Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Suspension, Frame, Forks, Handlebars, Fuel Tank, Oil Tank, Fenders problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #1  
Old 19th December 2009
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Default Sorry 1 More?? Fork Oil + Progressive Install...???

OK, I should have already asked enough questions, but please 1 more...
I have plenty of time to drain the stock fork springs as I take them out, and I only have 2,600 mi. on the bike...
So I am thinking about letting all the oil drain from the springs back into the forks as I remove them and re-using it with the progressive springs to at least get a feel, and have a better idea what weight I want to go back with...
Also it will save me probably making a mess draining the fork oil normal...
I think the tighter coils of the lower part of the progressives will displace enough more oil to bring it up to the needed 5-3/4"...
Will that work OK, or should I drain the stock oil normally and replace it with new...???
Thanks, have a good one, and a MERRY CHRISTMAS...Tater...
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  #2  
Old 19th December 2009
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Default Springs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tater View Post
OK, I should have already asked enough questions, but please 1 more...
I have plenty of time to drain the stock fork springs as I take them out, and I only have 2,600 mi. on the bike...
So I am thinking about letting all the oil drain from the springs back into the forks as I remove them and re-using it with the progressive springs to at least get a feel, and have a better idea what weight I want to go back with...
Also it will save me probably making a mess draining the fork oil normal...
I think the tighter coils of the lower part of the progressives will displace enough more oil to bring it up to the needed 5-3/4"...
Will that work OK, or should I drain the stock oil normally and replace it with new...???
Thanks, have a good one, and a MERRY CHRISTMAS...Tater...
XLXR did mine while i assisted

Made some slightly longer spacers as i had lost one (.125 i think)

Forks were drained and flushed out

Tight coils were installed up

Refilled with 11 oz Amsoil 10wt each tube.
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  #3  
Old 19th December 2009
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tater View Post
OK, I should have already asked enough questions, but please 1 more...
I have plenty of time to drain the stock fork springs as I take them out, and I only have 2,600 mi. on the bike...
So I am thinking about letting all the oil drain from the springs back into the forks as I remove them and re-using it with the progressive springs to at least get a feel, and have a better idea what weight I want to go back with...
Also it will save me probably making a mess draining the fork oil normal...
I think the tighter coils of the lower part of the progressives will displace enough more oil to bring it up to the needed 5-3/4"...
Will that work OK, or should I drain the stock oil normally and replace it with new...???
Thanks, have a good one, and a MERRY CHRISTMAS...Tater...
DO NOT re-use the stock e-oil crap ..get the HD performance fork oil .its between the race oil and stock oil ..i have it in my nightster with progressive springs and its an awesome ride now..as for making a mess its a personal choice as to how its done.. i dont make a mess when i do it but others do..if you do the procedure slowly and use a small bucket to catch the oil you wont make a mess..
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  #4  
Old 19th December 2009
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Default

OK, 10 wt. or HD-Performance oil and I need to pick up approx. 24 oz to do both...
Seems like when I did the Kaw. I used a zip lock bag and rubber bands some way, and had a good clean drain, can't remember exactly, been a while and CRS...
I'll look at these a bit closer and see if I think I can do the same with them...
Thanks...Have a good one and MERRY CHRISTMAS...Tater...
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  #5  
Old 19th December 2009
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Measure the fork rider sag so you know where it is as a baseline before you take it apart. Determine where you want the rider sag with the new spring in relation to that point. Higher may improve high speed stability, lower may improve cornering. You can also measure the front and rear of the fork tubes under the engine to determine how much your chassis pitch changes. The main purpose of measuring the baseline points is having something to return to if you end up causing handling problems.

Remove the fork springs, compress the forks and measure the fork oil level before you do anything else. again, just to know where you're starting from. Compare to the recommended levels in the manual for your bike.

Theoretically, you could measure the oil level before you take out the springs, install the new springs, and remeasure the oil level to see if the new springs change the oil level or not. The spring will work the same with either side or down, but more coils under the oil level will raise the oil level a bit.

If this is the first time working on forks, it is a good idea to make one change at a time to learn the effects of handling each different change makes. Keeping the rider sag, oil height, and oil the same as before, you will be able to tell the difference the spring made. Then change spring preload / rider sag a few times to learn how that feels. Then use a plastic tie on the forks to determine the minimal oil level needed to prevent hard bottoming. Then decide if you need heavier oil or not.

Then adjust fork height in triple clamps to get the handling you like. Be careful on the first test ride to ensure you did not get a high speed wobble. Bump the bars a bit at lower speeds to ensure the bike remains stable.

See the "7 Pages of Suspenion" in the Suspension Sticky Index for more information.
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  #6  
Old 20th December 2009
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tater View Post
OK, 10 wt. or HD-Performance oil and I need to pick up approx. 24 oz to do both...
Seems like when I did the Kaw. I used a zip lock bag and rubber bands some way, and had a good clean drain, can't remember exactly, been a while and CRS...
I'll look at these a bit closer and see if I think I can do the same with them...
Thanks...Have a good one and MERRY CHRISTMAS...Tater...
Tater.....IF you ride in weather below about 50 degrees......I found the S/E Heavy Wt oil way too firm.......as in nearly rigid.
I also had Works Performance dual rate springs in......but I went back to the OEM oil. I weigh about 215 dressed....and ride pretty hard.
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Old 20th December 2009
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BWP 5p, I really don't ride in cold weather (below say 60*)...
So would the HD SE Performance oil be good for me at 225# or how about say Bel-Ray 10 wt., that I can get locally, or is that about the same weight as the HD SE Performance fork oil...
I'm just trying to get it right the 1st time and appreciate the help from all you fine folks...
Have a good one, and MERRY CHRISTMAS...Tater...
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  #8  
Old 20th December 2009
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Default Using Baggies or Plastic Jug to catch the oil is good.

I remember using plastic bags to catch fork oil in the old days, too. This time I cable tied some cut open juice jugs to catch any fork oil draining out. It does keep things neat to have the container attached to the bottom of the fork leg.

You're going to be getting messy anyway, so you may as well switch to some higher quality fork oil whether it is from H-D, Amsoil, BelRay, etc.

That said if your local H-D shop doesn't carry the fork oil you want, don't forget to check the offroad cycle places since dirt bikes use all kinds of fork oils so they have a larger selection.

By doing it now, you will definitely know the weight and quality of the fork oil. From the factory those two variables are kinda vague.

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  #9  
Old 20th December 2009
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There should be some law about getting it right the first time. I'm not sure what it should be, but there should be some law.

The owners manual for my 06 bike says the fork oil does not need to be changed until 20,000 miles. Stay with 10 w, until you test ride enough to know the difference different oil weights can make. I don't know if Bel Ray is synthetic, or not. I used to use it before Amsoil synthetic came along. I haven't compared the two side by side, but it seems the Amsoil does last longer.

Last edited by XLXR; 20th December 2009 at 22:59..
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Old 20th December 2009
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When I changed to Progressive Springs, I replaced the fork oil with BelRay 10W. Also to get ALL of the oil out, remove the fork cap and raise/lower the front end a few times. Be sure to have a fairly large catch can because the oil just squirts out, like 12" when you do this.
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