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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #1  
Old 21st September 2010
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Default S&S Super E

I know this has been answered many times but my buddy got a new S&S and said it came with 2 sets of jets.Out of carb he has .265 -68 now what he put in he don't remember but said it was what came with carb.He said both ran rich but said he didn't really know much about carb setup.So i'm gonna try and help with Y'alls help.from what I've read on here the .265-68 is really what he should be running.It's a 80XL.He said the other jets # was in book but I can't find it.So I'm hoping for some help for this is new to me also.
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Old 21st September 2010
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Here's what you want to print out, read, and take with you when you set the carb up. Probably want to start with the .265-68 jets, then set all of the adjustments back to the factory settings and follow the directions. When you've got it as close as possible take it for a ride along with a screw driver. After it's well warmed up (30 minutes) use the screw driver to make an fine adjustments.

http://www.bikernet.com/pages/story_detail.aspx?id=1877
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Last edited by jharback; 21st September 2010 at 12:14.. Reason: Left off the link.
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  #3  
Old 21st September 2010
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S&S Super E & G Carburetor Tuning guide
http://www.sscycle.com/feature/featureview.php?s_id=11
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Old 21st September 2010
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Default Here's a back-to-baseline-settings guide that reads a little simpler...

...than the factory S&S manual:

http://www.bikernet.com/pages/story_detail.aspx?id=1877
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Old 21st September 2010
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Note - you can't tune it in the driveway.
You can get it close enough to take out and ride, then the tuning begins.
The motor must be fully warmed up (not idling, ride it!).
Set the idle speed & mixture first. (and every time any change is made)
Then the low speed
Then the main

The fuel circuits overlap somewhat and are cumulative so you have to start off right or you will get lost.

Ignition timing changes will affect the carb settings so do that first.

Most open exhaust systems will create a tuning nightmare, unless you are happy with close enough.
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  #6  
Old 21st September 2010
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Thanks guys, this guy is the son of one my riding and working partners that has went on to ride threw the pearlie gates.He lives within 1/8 mi of me and has a ironhead how cool is that.He tried giving me his old bendix last nite but I wouldn't take.With your guys help I'm gonna put this young man well he's 51 but anywall we'll gonna master this S&S Hell you never know maybe I could get the ole lady to get me one.
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Old 16th March 2012
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Well he gave his bendix tonite are I should say I went and got it.So I need to know how do I set it up for my 74?
In my other post you'll see I was having a problem with needle valve are float so I decided if I was gonna redo one I'd do his so I'd have a adjustable main.His also had the VOES on it.PG step in here.
Also he says the E is still running rich on his bikeSo I guess I'll have to ride with him and see if we can't fine tune it better.
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  #8  
Old 17th March 2012
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Where is the Super E running rich? If it is in the mid range it would be where the low and high circuits overlap and will need to be corrected with a different air jet. The standard #40 was way too rich for my bike. S&S supply a kit of different size air jets for correcting the overlap. I ended up running a #56, took a lot of experimenting but it was worth it. Then I swapped the exhaust for original headers with crossover and had to down size to a #48. The increase in mid range torque was unbelievable.
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Old 20th March 2012
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Hey TC thanks for the heads up on that problem.I'm leaning toward the fact that he is lugging it.I haven't rode it yet myself but knowing him I think that's were the problem is.
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