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25th October 2010
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Biker
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: South of town where you can make some noise!
Posts: 24 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1961 Other Motorcycle Model: Harley Electrglide Classi Other Motorcycle Year: 1986
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Kickstart problem #2 - starter gear/ratchet plate - what do I have here?
If you've have followed my other thread (kickstart issues #1 involving my kicker gear setup), I've been trying to get my '61 rolling - had been told that the kick would skip erratically and that it was probably the kicker gear, so I replaced it and after installation, it initially seemed much better with positive engagement. So, after getting the primary reassembled, I tried to fire the beast for the first time after rebuild and ended up getting a nice case of "Sportster knee".
After trying to heal, I decided to pull the primary down (again). When I pulled the guts from the primary, I find that the starter gear and the ratchet plate currently in the bike are COMPLETELY DIFFERENT for everything I've seen so far!
For comparison purposes, here is a ratchet plate on an early clutch basket:
Here is what is currently installed on the bike:
As for the starter gear, this is what I can find looking in catalogs and on Fleabay:
This is what is currently on the bike:
I guess my question is - what part numbers do I have here??? Everything I have seen so far is a 9 tooth ratchet plate and 9 tooth starter - looks like both of mine are 18 teeth!
IF anyone has seen this before and knows what part numbers I am dealing with I would appreciate knowing! It would seem to me that I might be better off with a 9-tooth setup than this - also, the starter gear seems to be awful loose on that spacer; you can definitely see it when the gear is restrained by the cam plate on the kicker gear with the kick lever in the upright position.
Does anyone know what the clearance between starter gear and spacer is supposed to be?
Any comments or info is appreciated - I'll get this thing ironed out yet! 
__________________
1961 XLH Sportster
1986 FLHTC ElectraGlide
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26th October 2010
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Greasemonkey
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Gooseberry Hill
Posts: 134 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1964 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Shovester Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1971 Other Motorcycle Model: Triumph 955 Other Motorcycle Year: 1998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOMER308
If you've have followed my other thread (kickstart issues #1 involving my kicker gear setup), I've been trying to get my '61 rolling - had been told that the kick would skip erratically and that it was probably the kicker gear, so I replaced it and after installation, it initially seemed much better with positive engagement. So, after getting the primary reassembled, I tried to fire the beast for the first time after rebuild and ended up getting a nice case of "Sportster knee".
After trying to heal, I decided to pull the primary down (again). When I pulled the guts from the primary, I find that the starter gear and the ratchet plate currently in the bike are COMPLETELY DIFFERENT for everything I've seen so far!
For comparison purposes, here is a ratchet plate on an early clutch basket:
Here is what is currently installed on the bike:
As for the starter gear, this is what I can find looking in catalogs and on Fleabay:
This is what is currently on the bike:
I guess my question is - what part numbers do I have here??? Everything I have seen so far is a 9 tooth ratchet plate and 9 tooth starter - looks like both of mine are 18 teeth!
IF anyone has seen this before and knows what part numbers I am dealing with I would appreciate knowing! It would seem to me that I might be better off with a 9-tooth setup than this - also, the starter gear seems to be awful loose on that spacer; you can definitely see it when the gear is restrained by the cam plate on the kicker gear with the kick lever in the upright position.
Does anyone know what the clearance between starter gear and spacer is supposed to be?
Any comments or info is appreciated - I'll get this thing ironed out yet! 
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18 teeth should be better than 9, but tolerance / clearance and positive teeth contact have to be spot on - Iam with the forum can solve this Mystery !!!
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26th October 2010
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Senior Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pikeville Ky
Posts: 2,737 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200c 1980 chopped frame Sportster/Buell Year: 1995 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Ironhead chopper Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1979 Other Motorcycle Model: Nightster GF's Bike Other Motorcycle Year: 2008
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more teeth more engagement i'd like to know who makes your setup. if ya find out please let us know.
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26th October 2010
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Flat Track Racer
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 216
Reputation: 95

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to many teeth,the 9tooth works much better,been there and done that,i though the same thing,more teeth would catch better,wrong, then on mine,i cut the mating on both gearings so they wern't flat,i cut them with a die grinder to CUP them, no more sportster knee.IHTOM
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26th October 2010
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Senior Chief Harley Engineer 1st Class
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENNESSEE
Posts: 1,393 Sportster/Buell Model: hand built M/XL ironhead Sportster/Buell Year: 9293 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 1976 motor in a 1987 fram Sportster/Buell Year #2: ???? Other Motorcycle Model: 1974 XL & 2003 FXD Other Motorcycle Year: 7403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom gordon
to many teeth,the 9tooth works much better,been there and done that,i though the same thing,more teeth would catch better,wrong, then on mine,i cut the mating on both gearings so they wern't flat,i cut them with a die grinder to CUP them, no more sportster knee.IHTOM
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we need pictures of this
__________________
Forever Two Wheels
1997 AMRA National E-class Champion
Ironhead parts I have tons of em
machine shop @ home
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26th October 2010
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Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,464 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year: 1972 Other Motorcycle Model: Heritage Softail Other Motorcycle Year: 1999
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If you look at the "What Fits What" book they write about an early fine tooth kicker ratchet and a later coarse tooth kicker. The book says the fine tooth ratchet is a knee buster as you have found out. I would put in the the coarse set, the rivet pattern should be the same
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26th October 2010
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Biker
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: South of town where you can make some noise!
Posts: 24 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1961 Other Motorcycle Model: Harley Electrglide Classi Other Motorcycle Year: 1986
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Many thanks guys for the input! I've inspected the bearing surfaces of these parts and they are all in good shape. I measured the internal diameter of the starter gear bushing - it came in at 1.365" I.D. - the spacer that the bushing is installed over (a 1.025" length short-style), measures 1.356" O.D., so we're looking at 0.009" clearance.
I don't have access to factory specs for these items, but it seems that there is too much slop so the gear can get cocked when operated.
With the cam plate holding the starter gear in its rest position, I measured the distance from the end of the spacer back to the top surface of the ratchet teeth - where it is held by the cam plate I measured 0.214" - on the side opposite it's only 0.187" - appears that it's cocked about 0.027" across the face of the gear.
I'm thinking the bushing is too loose and/or the spring is not strong enough to force good engagement, so I'm thinking of replacing both. FWIW, the spring has a free length of 1.593" (again, I don't know what it should be).
If anyone can tell me what kind of clearance the new bushing needs, I'd appreciate it! Seems most of the ones available come tight and have to be reamed out to proper dimension.
Thanks again everyone!
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26th October 2010
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Biker
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 85 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster XLCH Sportster/Buell Year: 1975 Other Motorcycle Model: 1995 FXDWG
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The spring is the first thing I'd replace. I did on my 73 and that was the problem.
__________________
1995 Dyna Wide Glide, Vance&Hines Long Shots, Jims lifter blocks, pushrods, cam, top end, Twisted Spokes.
1981 Sportster, Carlini Super Sweeps, everything else is stock.
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26th October 2010
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Biker
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: South of town where you can make some noise!
Posts: 24 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1961 Other Motorcycle Model: Harley Electrglide Classi Other Motorcycle Year: 1986
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About the cheapest part too, eh? 
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26th October 2010
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 7,860 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH 1000 Sportster/Buell Year: 1977 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 75 motor in Norton frame. Other Motorcycle Model: 42WLA 45, Harton, Narley Other Motorcycle Year: 1942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOMER308
Many thanks guys for the input! I've inspected the bearing surfaces of these parts and they are all in good shape. I measured the internal diameter of the starter gear bushing - it came in at 1.365" I.D. - the spacer that the bushing is installed over (a 1.025" length short-style), measures 1.356" O.D., so we're looking at 0.009" clearance.
I don't have access to factory specs for these items, but it seems that there is too much slop so the gear can get cocked when operated.
With the cam plate holding the starter gear in its rest position, I measured the distance from the end of the spacer back to the top surface of the ratchet teeth - where it is held by the cam plate I measured 0.214" - on the side opposite it's only 0.187" - appears that it's cocked about 0.027" across the face of the gear.
I'm thinking the bushing is too loose and/or the spring is not strong enough to force good engagement, so I'm thinking of replacing both. FWIW, the spring has a free length of 1.593" (again, I don't know what it should be).
If anyone can tell me what kind of clearance the new bushing needs, I'd appreciate it! Seems most of the ones available come tight and have to be reamed out to proper dimension.
Thanks again everyone!
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From what I remember, the new ratchet gear I installed had about .001" clearance or so - just by feel. Certainly not enough to feel any rocking movement. Just enough to let it slide freely and that is all.
I would say my old worn out one had like .010" clearance, so it slipped.
Dunno the spring length but it is a common problem so worth getting a better one if you can.
__________________
In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is.
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