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21st December 2010
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Senior Chief Know It All 1st Class
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: N. Portland
Posts: 1,128 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1972
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welding the kickstart ratchet to the clutch shell?
Anyone ever done this? I was thinking it would be easier and stronger to tig weld the ratchet plate to the clutch drum instead of the rivets. Anybody have any advice on this
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www.combustioncontraption.blogspot.com
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21st December 2010
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 539 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1973
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hi lucky23 i would not weld the ratchet in place due to heat distorsion of the ratchet plate and clutch hub this is only my opinion not only that when you need two replace it you could grind to much metal away and have problems engaging the ratchet with kicker gear but its your call goodluck
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21st December 2010
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Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: northern IN.
Posts: 3,336 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200R 90+HP Sportster/Buell Year: 2004 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 2276cc VW sandrail Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1976
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If the whole thing was heated up before hand it would minimize distortion but still a tricky operation.The clutch drum is probably hardened also, so you would need to get it heat treated after welding.
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04 1200R 90+HP/10.5-1 SE pistons/.536 cams/Heads by MR T/mikuni HSR 42 w/25 pilot, 96 needle, 170 main/TC88A ignition w turbotas mod 33 map pos.4/ Supertrapp 2-1 w 23 disks/ 28T FRONT PULLEY /NRHS Hurricane A/C & adj. pushrods /progressive 440 shocks & fork springs w/10 OZ SE fork oil
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22nd December 2010
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Master Bike Builder
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,048 Sportster/Buell Model: 71 xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 73 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 74 xlh Sportster/Buell Year #2: 74 Other Motorcycle Model: BT rigid hand shift
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weld away.....the starter ring gear can be welded with no distortion or problems.
I have never had a problem with rivets....probably due to the fact I have a brake manufacturing company down the street that sets rivets for me for free using the correct equipment and high quality materials.
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22nd December 2010
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Greasemonkey
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Essex county
Posts: 134 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH stock/near stock Sportster/Buell Year: 1977
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I welded mine (mig) without any problems. Four short welds of approx 1/2. I was going to tack it only then drill for rivits but it came out so well I skipped them. Never set rivets before and didn't feel comfortable with the process. Heat wasn't a problem (the starter ring gear was welded in spots).
Setting rivets 101 would be a great stickie post here in the forum,..any pros?
Matt
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22nd December 2010
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Senior Chief Know It All 1st Class
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: N. Portland
Posts: 1,128 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1972
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Thanks for the replies! I guess I could take it in to a brake place here, but Im just not sure exactly how the holes on the inside of clutch shell should be drilled. Do the holes have to be counter sunk on the inside to leave room for the rivets to expand when you flatten them?
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22nd December 2010
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,111 Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead XLH Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1978 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Ironhead XLT Sportster Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1977 Other Motorcycle Model: Honda CBX 1000 Other Motorcycle Year: 1979
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I have the rivets along with 4 small welds to hold my ratchet plate in place. I believe the ratchet plate is countersunk slightly for the rivet heads but the holes are a little too deep to properly contact the rivet when peening the end using the alignment tool. Results in rivets that are not as tight as they should be if they were backed up individually. Mine appeared fine at first but when I opened the primary later on after some miles, the ratchet plate had a slight amount of movement on the rivets. That's when I tacked the plate in place.
Eric
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1978 Anniversary Edition XLH. Wiseco 10:1 forged pistons, Andrews R5 cams, dual plugged heads with Super Port Flow, single fire ignition, Mikuni Solex 36 PHH carb, Jagg oil cooler, '73 gauges, kickstart, Barnett kevlar clutch, Progressive front springs, Hagon Nitro shocks, all-Andrews tranny. 1977 XLT, Mikuni Solex 36 PHH carb, tapered dual exhausts, Andrews Y cams, Progressive front springs, Hagon Nitro shocks.
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22nd December 2010
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Senior Chief Know It All 1st Class
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: N. Portland
Posts: 1,128 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1972
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Interesting. I remember reading somewhere that you can drill and countersink shallower holes next to the existing ones on the ratchet and that does the trick for getting the rivets at the correct depth for a tighter peen?
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22nd December 2010
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Senior Chief Know It All 1st Class
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: N. Portland
Posts: 1,128 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1972
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But Im still wondering if i should drill and countersink holes on the INSIDE of the clutch shell?
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22nd December 2010
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Senior Chief Know It All
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 899 Sportster/Buell Model: xlh Sportster/Buell Year: 78
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I know mine is welded,it was done before I got the bike. I can't remember if the holes inside are counter sunk or not.
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78 sportster, Weisco pistions,Andrews Y cams, Kibblewhite valves with Manley springs, ported and polished heads with an SS super E.
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