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11th April 2011
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 485 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883 Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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Lux,
All that makes sense to a degree, but I would have never guessed that it was 24 oz. Isn't that like 20% of the total capacity. Seems a lot to me.
Thank you for your more detailed reply,
kr
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11th April 2011
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 4,297 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeidaho
Lux,
All that makes sense to a degree, but I would have never guessed that it was 24 oz. Isn't that like 20% of the total capacity. Seems a lot to me.
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That's what I was thinking - somewhere near 25% of the oil which is NOT changed!
I'd be interested to know how much cleaner the oil is at the next and subsequent changes as well.
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Getting through the Break-In Miles Sucks!
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11th April 2011
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Leg Man!
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South of Lancaster, PA
Posts: 3,709 Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 Custom Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeidaho
Lux,
All that makes sense to a degree, but I would have never guessed that it was 24 oz. Isn't that like 20% of the total capacity. Seems a lot to me.
Thank you for your more detailed reply,
kr
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Yep, you can drain about 2.8 to 3 qts. out if you didn't use any oil between a change. That makes the total capacity of the motor 3 qts. 20 ounces which as stated in the manual is about 3.6 qts. That means in reality, on a normal change you're leaving about .6 qts. of dirty oil in your motor which is:
.6 qts. / 3.6.qts. which equals 16.7% of the capacity.
That's like draining 5 qts. of oil out of my truck and putting 4 qts. of fresh oil in and adding back 1 qt. of the used oil.....no way anybody would want to do that. Dry sump vs. wet sump. This is a great way to deal with it.
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Jester Mafia Member * TC88A Ignition With Rico's Jester III Map *
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11th April 2011
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Leg Man!
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South of Lancaster, PA
Posts: 3,709 Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 Custom Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenster
That's what I was thinking - somewhere near 25% of the oil which is NOT changed!
I'd be interested to know how much cleaner the oil is at the next and subsequent changes as well.
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It's noticeable right now! But I'm sure it'll get cleaner every time. Another thing to think about..... A lot of guys switch to Synthetic oil over dino sometime during their bike's lifetime. That means that when you switch you really are mixing about 20% of the old oil in with the new. Theoretically you'd never be completely synthetic till you scavenge!
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11th April 2011
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Harley Engineer
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 338 Sportster/Buell Model: Nightster Sportster/Buell Year: 2007
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How many quarts did it take to do the scavenger method?
Is it about 4 quarts?
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12th April 2011
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Leg Man!
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South of Lancaster, PA
Posts: 3,709 Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 Custom Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07XL1200N
How many quarts did it take to do the scavenger method?
Is it about 4 quarts?
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Yes, I used 4 quarts exactly. But since the motor holds 3.6 quarts if you drain ALL of the oil, I only over pumped about .4 quarts.
So....you're not really wasting the extra oil....you're changing out all of it. If your car holds 5 quarts of oil you wouldn't drain out only 4 quarts and put the plug back in and top it off with 4 quarts of new oil would you? Buts thats about what you do if you don't scavenge all the oil in your Sporty.
You start by adding the recomended amount for an oil change which is 2.8 to 3.0 quarts. Then add back only what you pump out while scavenging. I could have probably stopped at around 22 to 24 ounces but I decided to pump out exactly a quart...that way I'm sure I got all the dirty oil out plus it's easier to just dump in a whole quart rather than measure it out. I guess I could have stopped at 24 ounces, added the same amount, and left myself 8 ounces in the AmsOil bottle for "topping" off oil. Next time I may do that. It was just easier this first time to pump out a whole quart.
Last edited by LuxBlue; 12th April 2011 at 00:06..
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12th April 2011
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,879 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2002
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I would do this but with my luck I would forget to put the plug back in or it will somehow fall out on me or something.
Here is another option for anyone who doesn't want to spend $90. on this kit.
Jireh Cycles sells this for $15. you would not get the oil left in the return line out but it would get everything else out:
CONTAMINATED OIL REMOVAL SYSTEM: Allows you to completely remove all old, contaminated oil from your motorcycle when you change the oil.
Part# 97-304

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2002 XL1200C (originally)

Stage II Buel XB Heads, Andrews N4 Cams, Mikuni HSR42 Carb, Forcewinder Air Filter with Float bowl vent mod, S&S Roller Rockers, Jim's Powerglide Lifters, Thunderheader Exhaust, Daytona Twin Tech SIngle Fire Ignition, Crankvents.
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12th April 2011
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Leg Man!
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South of Lancaster, PA
Posts: 3,709 Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 Custom Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeLI_77
I would do this but with my luck I would forget to put the plug back in or it will somehow fall out on me or something.
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The plug you refer to is no different than the one for your regular oil drain plug. Forget either one and you'd have a mess!
There's still alot of dirty oil left in the hoses, passages and pump. When you scavenge, you use the new oil to push out the old oil till it runs clean.
By the way, I'm not a spokesman for the Scavenger....just a satisfied customer.
Just looked closer at that gizmo you were talking about...looks like it goes in place of the filter? How does it work? It's not a pump like I first thought.
Last edited by LuxBlue; 12th April 2011 at 01:26..
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12th April 2011
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Leg Man!
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South of Lancaster, PA
Posts: 3,709 Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 Custom Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Found this on another site. Softail but the same idea.
The CORS (CONTAMINATED OIL REMOVAL SYSTEM) looks like an interesting gizmo, but if I understand it right, I'm not sure I would want to use it on a Softail. It replaces the oil filter right? And, if I understand correctly, it dumps the old cam chest oil without recirculating to the engine from the filter. Which means it is not feeding oil to lubricate the motor while it is purging the old oil from the cam chest. It won't flush the camplate or passageways. And it won't pull the oil from the crank chest since the recovery passageway sits up off the floor of chest and leaves a constant pool of oil under the crank.
The Scavenger may be overkill, but at least it purges that last bit of old oil, on the way back to the tank. It not only keeps the oil flowing through the engine, it allows for adding extra oil to improve the flush of the chests and passageways.
I'm not saying a purge is needed - but at least the Scavenger design keeps oil flowing through the engine during the process and allows for a complete flush. The CORS stops oil flow to the engine from the filter, and won't pull the largest pool of remaining oil from a Softail. just a thought...
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12th April 2011
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Country Governed by Idiots
Posts: 1,213 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200 C Sportster/Buell Year: 09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenster
somewhere near 25% of the oil which is NOT changed!
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Makes you wonder why the factory does not also install a crankcase drain...
Have a good one...Tater...
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