Barnett Clutch Question

blindboy · #1 14th June 2012

Hi,

This is my first bike ever; so go easy on me. I have an opportunity to get a used Barnett Clutch for a 1972 Ironhead; however mine is a 1969 electric start right hand shift. Is this a good idea to try or destined for failure? I guess the obvious question is would it fit? I don't mind doing a bit of work if it's worthwhile for the upgrade, but I'm not looking to push an elephant up a mountain this summer. Let the Guru's chime in.

khaskins · #2 14th June 2012

Moved thread to IronHead section. You'll the correct answers here.

I'd call Barnett directly and ask them.

16ouncePBR · #3 14th June 2012

57-70 dry clutch is different than the 71-up wet.

blindboy · #4 14th June 2012

Thanks for the responses... I wasn't sure about the exact changeover of year for that. I will ensure to submit in the correct section next time.

barefoot · #5 15th June 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by blindboy

Hi,

This is my first bike ever; so go easy on me. I have an opportunity to get a used Barnett Clutch for a 1972 Ironhead; however mine is a 1969 electric start right hand shift. Is this a good idea to try or destined for failure? I guess the obvious question is would it fit? I don't mind doing a bit of work if it's worthwhile for the upgrade, but I'm not looking to push an elephant up a mountain this summer.

It's possible to do but I don't think you want to .... H-D did this change because the earlier dry clutches can get leaky, then they start slipping and go to heck. Maybe they got tired of trying to keep the early clutches dry, just gave up and went to wet.

You used to be able to get Barnett wet-n-dry plates for the early clutch that worked even if the clutch did get leaky. Maybe still can.

Otherwise, if your early clutch still works good, going to the later style is not an "upgrade". The early clutch is nicer, just a little more work to take care of.

If this is your first bike ever, you got yourself a great one. But it's got its own personality

Unless it's been butchered, leave it stock and enjoy it. It's not as fast as a rice rocket but the early tin cover Sporties are fire-breathing monsters. Ya done good, it will be fun if you like that sort of thing. If not, sell it and get something smoother, don't "improve" it.

blindboy · #6 15th June 2012

Yeah! Actually I love the rawness of it! I've had a big smile since getting it on the road. The previous owner had really long forks on the front which I had brought back to stock pipes otherwise she looks right. The feeling though... It's like riding an angry cybernetic bull who just took a shot of ether, and chased it with some "bath salts".... Needless to say, my old lady hated the idea at first (I'm almost 40) but has turned around since my Ironhead has had a strong mood enhancing effect

. I'm not looking to make it ride any differently, but getting into gear is basic functioning, and I want to make sure that happens right and safely.

blindboy · #7 15th June 2012

I don't have the manual for 1970 Onward... Is wetness the only difference? And would running a wet clutch mostly dry be a dealbreaker? Further, is there a difference in technical specification for fitment and just modification for wetness? Or did they simply seal the area and introduce fluid? If so could I run the plates for the 1972 clutch if they are of the wet and dry type? Also how brutal is it to open up that area and check the plates for oil seepage to see if that's the reason for the problem?

brucstoudt · #8 16th June 2012

no one in their right mind,would want to swap a,dry clutch for an a.m.f.,wet clutch there are better reasons,for going the opposite,direction.

brucstoudt · #9 16th June 2012

it's,not an,upgrade!wet or dry,clutch plates,for dry clutch,are more popular now,then ever.

barefoot · #10 16th June 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by blindboy

I don't have the manual for 1970 Onward... Is wetness the only difference? And would running a wet clutch mostly dry be a dealbreaker? Further, is there a difference in technical specification for fitment and just modification for wetness? Or did they simply seal the area and introduce fluid? If so could I run the plates for the 1972 clutch if they are of the wet and dry type? Also how brutal is it to open up that area and check the plates for oil seepage to see if that's the reason for the problem?

First off, you never said you had a problem, just that you wanted to change it

Second, neither clutch is perfect. They each have their strong points and weak points. But just changing one for the other doesn't make sense. Okay, changing the early out for the late one doesn't make sense. I've done it the other way, which does make sense

The early (dry) clutch is a much nicer clutch from the rider's standpoint. It works better and feels better. But it needs more care and has a few weak points. It's made up of a piece of tubing with a flat plate brazed on and a bunch of riveted-in drive teeth. The rivets get loose, oil gets in, the dry clutch is now not-dry and it starts to slip. The steel plates are very thin, so if the clutch slips a lot they get hot and warp. Then the clutch doesn't release well so it slips more, gets hot more, warps the plates worse, etc etc.

So the bad thing about the early clutch is that if it starts to get leaky then things go bad. Easy fix : Barnett made some "wet or dry" plates that work when they get oily. There is also a seal in there that can go bad and the bearing is a piddly-ass little thing and there is a thrust washer that needs to be set correctly. But all of those items are pretty easy to fix. You could even do it by the side of the road if you absolutely had to.

Even a proper fix is not that difficult. New bearing and seal and thrust washer, if the rivets are leaky knock them out, put some sealer under the drive teeth and re-rivet. Or buy a one-piece drum

Assemble carefully clean and dry, buy one of chevelle's really nice throwout levers (I can't understand why he hasn't been swamped in demands for those, the stock one is a feeble pos), and away ya go with a really nice clutch.

Or just stick new bearings and a seal in it, check the steel plates for flatness, and throw some Barnett wet-dry plates in and don't worry about the leaky rivets. Not quite as nice but it'll do.

The later one has a better bearing but it weighs an absolute ton - and most of the weight is in the worst possible place, out at the rim. Rotating mass, anyone ? It shifts worse because of this. Because it's wet, it doesn't have that nice crisp feel that a dry one has and it will never release as clean. It's easier to maintain but it just doesn't work as nice. So "upgrading" would be the opposite of what you'd get. I doubt that anyone who's ridden a correct dry clutch would recommend that change.