Rubbermount_EFI Wife dropped bike, now the front cylinder taps and smokes - Page 11

stocker883l · #**101** 29th July 2012

1250 is as big as you can go without case boring. Call Dan at NRHS and he will help you out. They have the $700.00 upper deal too. Simple job. Might ask him how to get any or all of the junk out of the cases. And you get way better parts than the stealer will slam back in there, and you have the good feeling that you did it, and don't have to worry if the stealers mechanic did it right.

archmayge · #**102** 30th July 2012

So I priced stock parts from the dealer. They wanted $600 for both cylinders and a set of pistons. They said they would let me know on Tuesday if they were going to cut me a deal. We shall see. If it's going to be anywhere near $600 I would rather pay a $100 more for the 1250 upgrade.

And.... another question. How much left/right play should be in the rods? I can rock the rods left and right ~1/16th-1/8th of an inch. The front rod moves a little bit more than the rear. There does not seem to be any up/down play, so thats good.

wedge · #**103** 30th July 2012

I can't tell from the pictures if the skirt is broken. If it's not broken, and all you have is the scoring from it seizing then you don't have anything in the crank case to worry about. After you have both jugs and both pistons out of the way, then turn it over by hand using the rods, and feel (and look for particles on the crank as it turns)) for any grittyness. I doubt there will be any issue at all.

Now as far as why it seized, I would be looking at any modifications that would have made it run lean and allowed it to get hot enough to do this. Or it happened from the intake manifold getting cocked in the wreck (air leak) and it doesn't take long for a partial seisure to do something like this.

I agree with the 1250 kit, that's the thing to do at this point.

archmayge · #**104** 30th July 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by wedge

Now as far as why it seized, I would be looking at any modifications that would have made it run lean and allowed it to get hot enough to do this. Or it happened from the intake manifold getting cocked in the wreck (air leak) and it doesn't take long for a partial seisure to do something like this.

Well according to the dealer it started life as a demo bike from Roland Sands Design, not someones baby. They said RSD just slapped some parts on it to make it look nice, and...

I have the feeling they just treated it like crap (no break in, no tune, etc) then sold it to me. The funny thing is the RSD clip-ons and speedo relocation and wrapped pipes is what sold it for me. Oh well, no biggie, its not the end of the world.

wedge · #**105** 30th July 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by archmayge

So I priced stock parts from the dealer. They wanted $600 for both cylinders and a set of pistons. They said they would let me know on Tuesday if they were going to cut me a deal. We shall see. If it's going to be anywhere near $600 I would rather pay a $100 more for the 1250 upgrade.

And.... another question. How much left/right play should be in the rods? I can rock the rods left and right ~1/16th-1/8th of an inch. The front rod moves a little bit more than the rear. There does not seem to be any up/down play, so thats good.

As long as the rods have no vertical play you are good. Tipping slightly left to right is normal, and the pistons when in the bore keep that in line.

Just feel for and look for grit in the bottom, but I doubt there is any. You didn't mention if the skirt is broken at all, and the picture doesn't show it well.

With it being an 09 I can't help you with the injection, but I can at least get you reading plugs like a pro, then you will know what needss to be adjusted. Go to the sticky's in the carb/efi section and read "Plug Reading 101". Once you understand that completely you will have the tool necessary to prevent this from happening again.

archmayge · #**106** 30th July 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by wedge

As long as the rods have no vertical play you are good. Tipping slightly left to right is normal, and the pistons when in the bore keep that in line.

Just feel for and look for grit in the bottom, but I doubt there is any. You didn't mention if the skirt is broken at all, and the picture doesn't show it well.

The skirt was fine. No "large" pieces of anything broke off. Just the backside (face) of the front piston and the bottom backside of the cylinder bore were messed up.

wedge · #**107** 30th July 2012

That's what I thought, and 99% of that stays right there. It's just aluminum that got soft and smeared over the ring grooves. and down the skirt. Back in the days of air cooled 2strokes I pulled pistons from a couple of bikes that looked like that, and just carved the rings loose with my pocket knife, knocked off the aluminum sticking to the jug, and rode the bike. After moving the needle one clip groove or going one larger on the main jet first (typical when changing altitudes here in California).

archmayge · #**108** 30th July 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by wedge

That's what I thought, and 99% of that stays right there. It's just aluminum that got soft and smeared over the ring grooves. and down the skirt. Back in the days of air cooled 2strokes I pulled pistons from a couple of bikes that looked like that, and just carved the rings loose with my pocket knife, knocked off the aluminum sticking to the jug, and rode the bike. After moving the needle one clip groove or going one larger on the main jet first (typical when changing altitudes here in California).

Wouldn't you think the top of the bore would have been messed up? Seems to me like the top of the bore would be hotter. Instead the top of the bore was glassy smooth and the bottom was jacked. ???

And I was riding it

. Ran like a champ (which is weird) minus spewing oil everywhere, LOL.

Does anyone near Portland/Salem Oregon have a tuner? I have no way of flashing the bike. It needs to be reasonably rich during the break in correct. I don't know if the dealer will throw in a tune. They did mention it.

wedge · #**109** 30th July 2012

The piston is what melted, not the bore, so the damage to the bore could be anywhere.

I thought you were doing the work yourself? You should do it, the dealer isn't doing much for you.

archmayge · #**110** 30th July 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by wedge

The piston is what melted, not the bore, so the damage to the bore could be anywhere.

I thought you were doing the work yourself? You should do it, the dealer isn't doing much for you.

I am doing the work myself. The dealer may cut me a deal on stock parts and they mentioned a tune. I have an EFI bike with no way to flash. If they don't cut me a >good< deal I will buy the 1250 upgrade but that still leaves me with needing a tune. Doesn't the bike need to be purdy rich during break in? It was running lean before being dismantled. Last thing I want to do is blow $700 on an upgrade and fry those too.