Rigid_EVO single digit daily driver street/strip fighter: step 5 - race trim

bitpusher · #1 13th July 2012

i really love cruising; sitting up, leaning back and putting my feet up on the forwards and just scooting.

i can tuck in when i want to go balls out but it really puts me in an awkward, folded up position and is really hard on the wrists. it's good only for short bursts.

so - the next step is to come up with race trim for salt and strip but the requirement is that it fits on the bike in such a way that it can be swapped out for cruise trim in an hour or so.

the primary components involved are:

bars/hand controls
foot controls
fairing

bars/hand controls

for bars i was considering some clipons below the top plate but the Woodcraft clamps that maru turned me onto are pretty pricey and i am growing old waiting for some used 50mm woodcraft clamps to come up on ebay.

so, the next logical move was to pick up a stock hayabusa top plate, which is basically clip-on mounts, and if you are following the build you know i am running a complete hayabusa front end so it bolts right on. got this one for $20.

i picked up some 1" aluminum stock from IMS and jason stopped what he was doing (makin money

) one morning and spent an hour turning the ends down to 7/8" and notching them.

i had to butcher them with a flap wheel to add dimples and then hit the exposed parts with scotchbrite wheel

i have been using my old 9/16" master cylinder with the dual 6 pot tokiko calipers and i was able to get full compression but it took 9/10 of the stroke and was a little soft. not terribly comforting, so a while back i ordered an 11/16" MC for dual brake harleys and have mounted it. haven't bled it yet but i expect it to be significantly better.

i used all of my existing cables and lines because, as stated, i want this to be a quick change convertible setup. that and i am damn broke.

what a difference!

now i am really glad i did not get the clipons. the stock busa setup is perfectly suited to the geometry of my chop.

the lean is pretty comfortable but i will have to get used to putting weight on my arms but the sweet spot is just laying forward a few inches and being flat on the tank, elbows tucked in with hands on the controls very very comfortably.

i am amazed at how comfortable it is. ergonomically anyway. heat control is going to be an issue, as it always has been, but i figure i will be wearing leather most of the time the bike is trimmed out for racing.

i think this was a real cheap and easy WIN!

bitpusher · #2 13th July 2012

foot controls

i am pretty limber for an old guy but clipons and forwards is just a bridge too far. it literally folds all 6'3" of me in half.

i tried putting mids back on but the fact that my ass is 6" back and 6" lower than stock with mids my knees are in my armpits on this rig.

i plan to fabricate some rear axle pegs and controls for salt/strip racing but for street I think that using the stock passenger pegs on the swingarm and building controls around them is the best/cheapest plan for street driving.

i have sat on the bike with the clipons and my feet on the pax pegs and while it is totally different and i am sure it looks kinda funny, it is not uncomfortable.

for the brake side i will just make a mounting plate for the master cylinder and hang it on the swingarm much the same way it was mounted on the sprocket cover.

i will use the stock brake pedal/lever and take the rectangular pax peg mount and turn the inside down to the ID of the lever bushing. or rather i will go bug jason and beg him to do it.

for the shift side, i could get all complicated and try to build something similar to chainsickle rearsets but first i am going to try to go KISS route.

i plan to make a shift arm that will be about 4" longer than stock but will reach rearward curving around the clutch bell. being longer the throw will be longer but i suspect it will be manageable.

one concern i had was the fact that the foot peg has the freedom to move in relation to the shift peg and rough roads could result in an unintended shift but the pax peg is very close to the pivot point and the throw is going to be longer so i have convinced myself that it will be fine.

we shall see tomorrow.

JasonSarratt · #3 13th July 2012

You'll be surprised at how the leaned forward position is actually very comfortable... you don't really have yer weight on your hands at freeway speeds cause the wind helps hold you up a lot... Once you get used to the position you'll be suprised at how positive it feels in corners and such...

bitpusher · #4 13th July 2012

fairing

i am going to mount a fairing for the partially streamlined classes at bonneville.

i could go as minimal as a national flyscreen for the class change (right?) but i have been imagining how it would look if i just slapped on a busa fairing and headlight that is made for my front end and running on the street when in race trim...

the bracket bolts right onto my trees

i am really leaning towards this solution but it is going to get real expensive. like around $600 expensive when you figure in the headlight.

a flyscreen is $120.

hmmm.......

Turbo Sporty 48 · #5 13th July 2012

Think comfort my friend.
Lean Forward for Fast
A cheap 2nd Sporty could help relieve stress.

JasonSarratt · #6 13th July 2012

Buy a fairing off craigslist...fill all the holes, get rid of the headlight and use it as a fibre glass mold...use the busa front fairing to repop I race fairing and just use it at Bonneville

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2

AustinXL · #7 13th July 2012

Yeah, maybe get something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayabusa-Upp...d35b12&vxp=mtr

Would you be able to just mount it and fiberglass over all the openings? Then just rattlecan it, it doesn't need to be pretty...

bitpusher · #8 13th July 2012

yeah, just covering the holes is the ticket. consider the amount of time + materials to make a mold, then use the mold, then finish the casting, then find out it came out wrong, etc etc.

at $120 a pop doing anything other than buying the cowling is bad economics.

if i want to run one on the street just buy another for $120 and get a headlight.

the red one is the only one intact i have seen with turns and screens so i might have to try and pick that one off and just take them out.

so we are looking at around $250 + a bit of glass mat. which i don't have until next month unless some donations come in.