... and ensure that each pipe has 4 slits at the header end not just two; and use a pop can shim between the clamp and the header to improve the effectiveness of the clamp; and use a little Permatex Ultra Copper inside the pipe before sliding it onto the head.
Yep Mick, that'll do it. I would have gone that far if it didn't go away after the first try. BTW....these pipes have three slits and look original. Never heard of that or seen it before. usually 2, sometimes 4, but never 3.
thought I was right, but went and checked some new springs- when new, springs do NOT have any spaces between the coils
that's weird, my last two sets of new springs did. they were not huge gaps, mind you, but just enough that you could tell. at any rate, the point is that the springs must be under a bit of tension at rest or the weights will flop around at idle and cause poor/erratic running.
when life looks like eazy street, there is danger at your door!
ok... did the points/timing and pushrod adj....runs way better....on the road it seems to run broken up when riding open throttle....
when sitting, it idles, and closed to about 1/3 runs clean, then it runs like crap when u open it the rest of the way...
could the 72 main be causing this? im going to try the 68 anyway...not gonna hurt.
....on the road it seems to run broken up when riding open throttle....
would you say it sounds like it's spitting/sneezing back into the carb, or is it more like it stumbling/blubbering? if stumbling your dumping in more fuel than the bike can burn, and a smaller jet is in order - like you've already planned for. i think the 68 will do you good.
yup..thats exactly whats its doing....
now the main jet is that big hex jet? everywhere i look the main jet is pictured as a little flathead screw...i thought that was the main air leak jet?
am i missing something?