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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #21  
Old 28th July 2012
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iNSaNeSHaNe iNSaNeSHaNe is offline
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JUST MY OPINION MY PREFERENCE .... in an iron head the temps are higher and I don't like the multi vis. oils in the summer but they are OK in the winter. as far as synthetics go.
DON'T put synthetics in a fresh engine they wont let it seat in properly all synthetic oil manufacturers state to make sure it is totally broke in and the rings are seated before adding synthetics. I love synthetics they handle the temps better and provide outstanding wear protection. I just don't want to see you cause a problem putting it in too soon. I would recommend waiting till you've done a couple oil changes. the thing with synthetics is if its not broke in it will prevent it from breaking in. the molecules are smaller and they can find irregularities and suddenly you have a leak you didn't before. and on and on .... just a thought..... ok i run synthetic on my newer bikes but NOT the old iron it just don't like it. it makes lots of valve noise and that tells me she don't like it so i went back to strait weight mineral oil and she uses less and is quieter.
this is just my own thoughts on my own bike. and its a daily driver for me and its over 100K on her with only minor top end work and basic repair in the trans and clutch. most of her life been fed only HD oils from the dealer unless going on road trips and rallies then its VR50 in the engine for reasons of availability
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  #22  
Old 28th July 2012
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Originally Posted by iNSaNeSHaNe View Post
DON'T put synthetics in a fresh engine they wont let it seat in properly all synthetic oil manufacturers state to make sure it is totally broke in and the rings are seated before adding synthetics.
This is a myth, one of many associated with the dino vs synth endless debate.
Many new cars now come with synth oil in them brand new, including VW.
Amsoil for one recommends their synthetic oil for new engines, as do many others.
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  #23  
Old 28th July 2012
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I use SYN3, I could use dino oil(s) but would have to change at 2,500mi. I figured I could spend the $50+ on oil/filter at 5,000 or twice in 5,000, same price??

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  #24  
Old 28th July 2012
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I am sorry for not being more specific BUT these are old castings with old technology.
New engines and new cars are built to much tighter tolerances with micro finished torque plated cylinders with low friction chrome molly rings and stainless steel wipers on the oil control. and yes those are ran in at the factory and then drained and oil put in for sale. these NEW engines have almost no break-in period for the rings to seat because the cylinders are torque plated when honed to a micron finish to accommodate the NEW low tension rings.
We on the other hand are dealing with OLD castings and OLD tech. unless someone spent a ton of money getting new cylinders with hardened sleeves with matched pistons as a matched set with fitted rings. which by the way comes with a recommendation of specific break in oil and procedure.
older castings and other parts don't have as high of QC the older castings were machined and fitted with basic torque plates and hones the finish was measured in thousandths not microns the rings were steel not chromium silicate molly and in order for them to seat in the had to wear off the edges thus depositing metal in the oil. upon initial start up the oil was generally thinner and non detergent as to let the particles settle out of the oil as to not suspend them causing damage to contacting surfaces. after a short run in period the oil was drained and normal oil was put in for further break in. what you do from there is up to you I just don't recommend synthetics until after 1000 miles of break-in with conventional oil on older type engines.
I hope I cleared up any confusion as to what I was saying. and yes many synthetic oils do come from the factory in new cars even HD sells them with synthetic in them but they were not assembled and started with it.
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  #25  
Old 28th July 2012
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Well, Amsoil recommends their synth for break in, so who knows.
LOL, and the endless oil debate goes on...
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  #26  
Old 28th July 2012
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Im a yung one so I may be wrong but I don't think synthetic was herd of in the ironhead days so y use it now iv never ran synthetic in my bikes but bet id have some new found leaks if i did. Good ol 50 or 60 weight rtv works great for me i like 60 better seems to keep it a little smoother. And yeah debate goes on. Run whatever u want it can always be drained but oil is high dollar these days
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  #27  
Old 28th July 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper View Post
This is a myth, one of many associated with the dino vs synth endless debate.
Many new cars now come with synth oil in them brand new, including VW.
Amsoil for one recommends their synthetic oil for new engines, as do many others.
Not so sure about that being a myth, Castrol had an article about this and the chemistry innvolved claiming the synthetic bonded or something with the metalls to make a to slippery layer for break in.
Strangely I can┤t find that article on their site anymore, may have to do with them increasingly pushing it on new engines, guess there is more money in selling it.
I guess also a modern water-cooled engine can be produced with tighter tolerances, on BMW bikes we are using synt on the water-cooled ones, the boxers dont like synt before at least 20.000 K, they will stop using oil at around that milage weirdly anugh.
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  #28  
Old 28th July 2012
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The Angels would use whatever they could steal at the gas station. Then they rode their bikes harder than anyone since ... you haven't lived till you've seen 30 Angels splitting lanes at 80.
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  #29  
Old 28th July 2012
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oil debates are funny they always turnout the same, same opinions i wish chevelle would do a dyno on the dino vs. syn (redline) i have tried the others (synthetics) and they do not work as some others stated.

But i have done a lot of testing on the track and my results would or should show up on a dyno, including oil temp/lower.

red line makes a break in oil... as do others.

everybody gets different results and always wheere you live for tempreture and the bike of course, and mosst have a intimate relationship with there bikes and can notice suttle differences. THATS what counts. the best method is try different oil and use what works best for you.

These oil debates get know where by the 3rd page it you have 14different oils and opinions.

I am going to throw this out, I never had good results with amsoil.... (in bikes) car different animal.

Have a great weekend and stay safe... watch out for texting nit wits!
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  #30  
Old 28th July 2012
mikethebike61 mikethebike61 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big andy View Post
If i was you stick with mineral oil not synthetic no good to mix the two as you will not get every drop of mineral oil out of your motor before you put the synthetic in and if it is a fresh motor dont take the risk just my opinion but see what others say
The 2 mix very well....Re: Castrol syn/dino mix. All the urban legend junk you read about synthetic is just that...legend with no bases in fact. I use it in the BMW K1200-GT and both cars. I plan on converting the XLCH next oil change and that engine has 120,000 miles on the top end and 200,000 on the bottom. I may convert the 1978 GMC motorhome we just bought because the 15/40 Rotella evaporates too quickly for my liking and hopefully the Mobil-1 will reduce the consumption (about 1 qt in 750 miles).

Having said all of that the ONLY advantages I see to the synthetic is the cold flow rate, higher temperatures it will endure and the longer change intervals. On an iron-head the added high temp capability can be critical. The BMW R1150-rt would overheat dino if you got stuck in heavy traffic but with synthetic I didn't worry about it. Based on what I read years back in a series of articles American Iron did with the chief engineer from Mobil who was head of the Mobil-1 project the following IS true:

1. Syn is not 'slicker' than dino
2. Syn will not 'Find' a leak that dino won't
3. Syn will not prevent rings etc from seating in a new engine
4. Syn will not ruin roller bearings (if it did you could not use it in jet engines for which it was originally designed)
5. Syn WILL clean varnish, crude and other deposits left by an inferior oil that may indeed lead to a leak...but GTX or another modern high quality oil should do the same.

Is it worth the extra money? That is a decision you will have to make for ourself. My brother-in-law has a Ford F-250 H/D with 350,000 miles, never been into for anything and all he ever used before he went into the auto repair business was whatever Jiffy-Lube put in it. So what does that say? Pretty much any modern name brand oil will keep your engine alive and well as long as you don't cook it and keep good filters and change it when you should.
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