Ironhead looky what I got today. hint: trans reinforcement related

[barefoot]

Originally Posted by DirtyCory

how accurate is the caliper gonna be for this? wouldnt it be better to use an inside mic on something like that?

Telescoping bore gages (some people call them snap gages) ... inside mics are not that easy to use or accurate.

Amazon.com: Telescoping Bore Gauge Set 6pcs 5/16"-6": Everything Else

Amazon.com: Telescoping Bore Gauge Set 6pcs 5/16"-6": Everything Else

[DirtyCory]

cool thanks barefoot. im still a dummy i guess, them are what i thought was an inside mic....lol....

[barefoot]

Originally Posted by DirtyCory

im still a dummy i guess, them are what i thought was an inside mic....lol....

Nah, not a dummy, can't know everything ... there are several kinds of inside mics.

For small stuff there's a kind with blades that looks similar to verniers. As you screw the thimble the blades move out. They go up to about two inches but aren't really as accurate as you'd expect.

Then for big stuff there are tubular-looking things that extend as you turn a thimble, kind of like a telescoping tubing. They are okay but the hole has to be big enough to fit your hand into. Mostly good for large holes.

The really accurate ones used to be called Intermikes and had three legs. The legs would extend as you screwed the thimble. Those are very accurate, very expensive, and have a short range. They don't go too big, maybe a few inches. Three or four inches max, if my oldtimer's hasn't kicked in.

If you did a lot of internal measuring, Sunnen bore gages are hard to beat. Or were, I haven't bought any in decades.

Overall, for most work the telescoping bore gages are the most accurate and easiest to use, especially for the price.

[iNSaNeSHaNe]

Man I love to build sheeet its just satisfying to know you made something useful and that you can show others how. personally I have a full set of inside mics and snap gauges personally I hate both I usually just use a good ol Vernier get er real close and then check with a better digital. unless its verrrryyyy important then I use my standards and a dial bore gauge. most of the gauges and standards I have are made by Starret, Shars, Sunnen,Mitutoyo, Sears, and Central. and I personally would never try to use a cheap knock off to make a precision part. unless i was doing the whole thing with the same single instrument from the initial measuring to the making. just a thought.
Oh and good luck to ya I've done the same thing with the blower casings of a 671 to prevent the blades from damage due to flexing worked great 20 years ago ...

[ezmerf]

Rep's to U 4 sharing.Go lite on that personal lubricating juice over the yrs I've found I do better to wait till I'm finished.

[brucstoudt]

i,noticed it was,non-alcoholic. i,did look twice though! i,believe seven year's of famine,is a,quote from the bible.

[ezmerf]

My bad I wasn't really looking at the beer just digging what he's doing.

[sevenyears of famine]

Cory, you are probably correct. Not the right tool for the job, but I got extra alum. if need be.

Can anyone clarify a few things here:



I've been back through the Dr.'s post a dozen times and I pick up something new every time. I'm just having a hard time making sense of these 2 areas.

Maybe the gap is there to distribute the stress to the case and not the corners of the countershaft boss?

The oil groove stumps me. I thought maybe it was a continuation of the factory groove seen below, but none of the added reinforcement ring pictures have them.

[chevelle]

Yes I believe the note is to continue oil groove into ring.
You could do it w/ a cutting wheel or file, if no mill, not critical.
He probably just pulled some reinforcement ring photos off the web, thats why the oil groove continuation isnt there, he probably did not work on the case in the photo?

The relief, he mentioned was not to bind the ring on the perpendicular area of case wall and cause additional stress, if I remember correctly.

[DR DICK]

way to go 7!

the id relief is so any contraction forces of the original boss (due to the press fit) isnt concentrated at the case boss to case wall junction. this causes stress at the 'corner'.
inviting the whole boss to break off.

the groove is a continueation of the oil groove you pointed out.

as you can see its not totally necessary depending on the height of the ring.

some advice;
make your 1st ring

try to fit it.
your hoping it will slide on "size for size"- that is bore size is the same as boss od.

if its tite back in the lathe, using some sand paper(120 grit) 'polish' the id bigger intill it does just slip on. dont get it jammed on the boss at this point. it can be a bitch to remove. this polishing is a little artsy-fartsy. easy to bell mouth the ring.

compared to the other choice: re-chucking and removing fractions of .001" its way more user friendly.

once you have the ring sized to boss, start construction of the real ring.
using the same measuring tools make new ring .001-.002" smaller than the gage ring. shooting for .001

a little oil will help surface finish when boring.

if parts are hot in lathe they will measure bigger than when at room temp.