Ironhead Super e tuning trouble

[84Iron]

Ive done many searches on this. Ive been following bountyman's tuning suggestions from the sticky and Im still having trouble getting her to accelerate smoothly. I replaced the intermediate jet; from a 0265 to a 028, and am currently running a 66 main. 1st gear seems to be fine, accelerates fairly well. But as I shift up it gets worse, and 4th gear is a bitch on the highway. Kinda struggles/jerks and is unresponsive to throttle on the highway. Any suggestions before I rip this carb apart again? The jetting Im running now is what S&S suggested I start out with. I realize there will be a flat spot with drags, but this is obviously more than a flat spot. Thanks in advance

[doodah man]

you'll probably need a larger main jet, if it's bucking/sneezing at highway speed.

[jharback]

Try using these directions. They're by far the best I have seen. They'll get the carb back to factory settings and then give detailed instructions on how to get it tuned.

http://www.bikernet.com/pages/story_detail.aspx?id=1877

Here are instructions on re-building the carb if you need 'em.

http://www.bikernet.com/pages/story_detail.aspx?id=1788

[84Iron]

thanks for the links; I think I might try a larger main jet and tune the carb accordingly. Il get back with the results

[ryder rick]

I don't know how those guys are running a main jet that small.
Maybe with a restrictive air filter and corked up exhaust....?
I don't know why S&S recommends such small jets.
Think about it, a smaller motor doesn't suck as hard and may need a larger jet!!!!
An E carb is too big for most XL motors and thus does not give as good of a signal as a larger motor and may need a larger jet.
So just because it is a small motor doesn't necessarily mean you need a smaller jet.
I would start with a 70 and a 28. Also 72 and a 29.5 is a pretty common combo.
Do the low speed first but everything else has to be right first, valves, ignition, exhaust, etc.
Then go after the main. Plug readings are useless, you need to go by the stop watch or seat of the pants dyno. It helps to run against another bike if you can't do the stop watch thing.
In 4th gear at speed If you ease out of full throttle and it picks up it's lean, if you ease out of full throttle and it blubbers it's rich. In between those two points is where you want to be.
Make only one change at a time and make sure you evaluate AFTER the motor is fully warmed up.
It is normal and expected to be sneezy and wheezy when it is cold so don't let that color your evaluation of changes.

[jharback]

Originally Posted by ryder rick

I don't know how those guys are running a main jet that small.
Maybe with a restrictive air filter and corked up exhaust....?
I don't know why S&S recommends such small jets.
Think about it, a smaller motor doesn't suck as hard and may need a larger jet!!!!
An E carb is too big for most XL motors and thus does not give as good of a signal as a larger motor and may need a larger jet.
So just because it is a small motor doesn't necessarily mean you need a smaller jet.
I would start with a 70 and a 28. Also 72 and a 29.5 is a pretty common combo.
Do the low speed first but everything else has to be right first, valves, ignition, exhaust, etc.
Then go after the main. Plug readings are useless, you need to go by the stop watch or seat of the pants dyno. It helps to run against another bike if you can't do the stop watch thing.
In 4th gear at speed If you ease out of full throttle and it picks up it's lean, if you ease out of full throttle and it blubbers it's rich. In between those two points is where you want to be.
Make only one change at a time and make sure you evaluate AFTER the motor is fully warmed up.
It is normal and expected to be sneezy and wheezy when it is cold so don't let that color your evaluation of changes.

Aren't you confusing the Super G with the Super E?

[ironbober]

http://www.sscycle.com/carbquickguide/

[ryder rick]

Originally Posted by jharback

Aren't you confusing the Super G with the Super E?

Nope.

Look at the size difference between an E and a stock CV.
The CV's were original equipment on larger motors.
The CV is good to 90hp on those larger motors.

Not many XL's making 90hp.........

A G is too big for most 80" motors. A 96" with branch heads can make use of that much carb.

[jharback]

Originally Posted by ryder rick

Nope.

Look at the size difference between an E and a stock CV.
The CV's were original equipment on larger motors.
The CV is good to 90hp on those larger motors.

Not many XL's making 90hp.........

A G is too big for most 80" motors. A 96" with branch heads can make use of that much carb.

Years ago we use to put the Super B's on our Ironheads. I thought that was about that same as the Super E but, shortened considerably and fixed the constant coughing problem with the Super B.

I've heard, tho' not from my experience, that the Super E works much better than the Super B on kick start bikes. They seem to start much easier for some reason. Never been told or figured out why, even if it is true.

[tracbike]

ryder ricks combo for the 1000 is correct..... you are way to small on jetting for both intermidiate/main