Hey gang, after seeing this post
about stators getting whacked I investigated and used Aaron's from Hammer Performance recomendation about using a series regulator rather than the OEM shunt regulator our Sportys come with. I purchased a Cycle Electric series regulator from Hammer Performance and I will get it tomorrow and install it this weekend.
The difference between, a shunt regulator like our OEM and a series regulator is that the shunt regulator bypasses or "shunts" unused AC current from the stator to ground, even if our bike's system doesn't need the supplied AC current after rectification and regulation for charging the battery or running the lights, ignition, etc. That means the stator is always working "balls to the wall" and putting out max current...some to the DC system after the regulator rectifies and regulates it and the rest to ground.
I wanted to see this in action so I borrowed this from work...
a Fluke AC/DC clamp meter.
It has clamp jaws that are attached, or can be removed for remote measuring. Pretty cool!
I started the bike, (it was already warmed up from my ride home), and clamped the meter's jaws on to one of the AC leads coming from the stator to the OEM shunt rectifier.
I let the bike run for a minute to get the battery voltage up to 13.9 VDC so the only load on the regulator was the lights and ignition...about 9 amps. At idle, (around 950 rpm), the stator was already putting out more than the bike needed and shunting the rest to ground.
When I ran the RPMs up to over 2000, the stator was at full output, about 26 amps.
So, the OEM shunt regulator works as adverised and keeps the stator busy all the time.
The new series regulator I'm getting will only use what is needed by the DC system and let the stator breathe easy when it doesn't need to work so hard.
After the install I will post my findings and pics of the series regulator in action.